Plunge lines

J

John L

Joined
Oct 28, 2004
Messages
1,330
Just got back from the Chicago show and was noticing the plunge lines of many knives there. I always thought that a plunge should be as close to 90 degrees to the flats of the blade as possible. But most are swept to the ricasso in ...oh..perhaps 1/8" or so. I think this will be easier as any false move on my part now results in a screwed up line. How do most of you do it?
 
John my plunges run from 90 degrees to a very forward swept angle all according to the knife design. The main criteria is that the plunge lines line up from side to side of the blade.
 
The best results, and easiest way, in my humble opinion from making knives for 36 yrs, is to file them in, using a file guide. That way, they are dead even, and at whatever angle you want.
 
LRB said:
The best results, and easiest way, in my humble opinion from making knives for 36 yrs, is to file them in, using a file guide. That way, they are dead even, and at whatever angle you want.
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Well said. I also use a guide on initial clean up grinds before the heat treat steps.
 
I have a file guide that is a bit chewed up and I just attach it to the blade and use it as a stop on the edge of the platen on the KMG. When I go to 120 grit, I take it off and roll the belt over the edge to round out the cut a tiny bit. I haven't tried this yet, but I plan to put the file guide back on the blade when i sharpen on the belt so I don't nick the bottom corners of the ricasso.
 
I do about the same as Joe. I've got a hardened O-1 guide that I made that gets clamped to the blade when I start grinding. I also run the belt just a LITTLE over the edge of the platen so that it rolls nice radius in as I grind. That only works with stiff backed belts (X weight backing) though.

-d

P.S. Don't forget to switch the belt tracking to the other side of the platen when you switch sides of your grind ;)
 
deker said:
I do about the same as Joe. I've got a hardened O-1 guide that I made that gets clamped to the blade when I start grinding. I also run the belt just a LITTLE over the edge of the platen so that it rolls nice radius in as I grind. That only works with stiff backed belts (X weight backing) though.

-d

P.S. Don't forget to switch the belt tracking to the other side of the platen when you switch sides of your grind ;)
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Same here but with a gator belt at the end. Also cratex tips help clean up any remaining grinder lines.
 
Bruce Bump said:
Same here but with a gator belt at the end. Also cratex tips help clean up any remaining grinder lines.
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Amen to the cratex wheels! I've got to get some more and get the foredom motor I have up and running so I'm not using the dremel anymore.

-d
 
I hope this is not a hijack but what are cratex tips/wheels. I assume
something that fits dremel type tools. Y'all use these to "clean-up"
plunge lines? Free hand?? Use a filing jig to protect the ricasso???
:confused: Sorry but Thanks
Tom
So.Ga.
 
Cratex is abrasive-loaded rubber, Tom. They come in a variety of shapes and grits that fit everything from Dremel mandrels up to wheels for bench grinders.
 
deker said:
Amen to the cratex wheels! I've got to get some more and get the foredom motor I have up and running so I'm not using the dremel anymore.

-d
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I have two foredoms but the little variable speed dremel is the handiest to use. When I have some real metal to remove I head for the 1/4 hp foredom. I also have one of the 90 degree handpieces for the small 1/3 hp foredom with a mini-disc like a micro angle grinder. It does amazing work when removing stubborn grind lines in tight places.
 
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