PM2 Bladeplay

jalcon said:
Seems like PM2s have a fair amount of "blade play" issues, just hanging around these forums. I've seen quite the number of threads on the subject.
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Hehehe...didnt I just see u on the spyderco forum saying the same thing?
 
JNewell said:
Some PM2s will not respond to pivot screw tightening due to manufacturing tolerances and the design of the step pivot in the PM2. There are a small number of these knives that have oversized (too wide) dimensions that prevent tightening the pivot screws enough to eliminate lateral play.

I am thinking this is the case with mine.
I am trying to figure out a way to shorten this without a lathe. Anyone have any suggestions?
Cheers
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[QUOTE/]I am thinking this is the case with mine.
I am trying to figure out a way to shorten this without a lathe. Anyone have any suggestions?
Cheers[/QUOTE]

I'd try lapping the pivot on a whetstone or equivalent. It shouldn't need much to bring it within proper tolerances.
 
:)
Barman1 said:
[QUOTE/]I am thinking this is the case with mine.
I am trying to figure out a way to shorten this without a lathe. Anyone have any suggestions?
Cheers
Click to expand...

I'd try lapping the pivot on a whetstone or equivalent. It shouldn't need much to bring it within proper tolerances.[/QUOTE]

Thanks,
I was thinking about that but needed assurance :)
Cheers
 
joeyza said:
Try a hair dryer, but don't get it hot enough to damage the g10
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Unless you have a shop grade heat gun, a hair dryer ain't gonna do much of anything to G10. That I can assure you.
jalcon said:
Seems like PM2s have a fair amount of "blade play" issues, just hanging around these forums. I've seen quite the number of threads on the subject.
Click to expand...

Well, I happen to own about 20+ Para and Para2s. I've inspected each one as it was purchased over the last few years and I can say definitively that none of e examples I have show any blade play. I know that some folks have reported what is infact play, however in some cases it is not accurate. In addition, all of my Para2 knives have the pivots as tight as they were from the factory (which is all the way tight), and the blade open with little to no resistence. I have to conclude that Spyderco meant to design these knives in such a way as to have the pivot tightened as much as possible without the need for any adjustment; however, it would appear by some accounts that the stepped pivot is not exactly within spec. Some folks have filed burrs off and other things that weren't quite flush. Others have mentioned that the PB washers were not quite thick or were in fact too thick. Hard to say in some cases, I can only speak to what I've seen in my own pieces.
 
Well I ordered a Para Military 2 last week. While waiting for the blade, I have noticed all of the threads on some of the issues with blade play, deployment ect of the para military 2. Fast foward to today when I finally got mine. I inspected it, and it deployed very smooth and fast upon arrival. No bladeplay what so ever. After playing with it for about an hour, it seemed to start to get a lot worse. Now the smoothness was gone, it sounded like things were way too tight for a fast and quick deployment. I can no longer easily flick it open with my thumb. Ontop of all of that, there is now slight side to side moveent of the blade. What's going on with Para military 2s lately? I feel like I shouldnt spend $130 on a knife only to get it and have to start grinding things down to get it to work properly. What gives?
 
After reading this post I grabbed the two PM2 I had that had a little side to side play followed the directions stated above and voila tight as a drum thanks guys. I didn't know that the stop pin had anything to do with he blade play....
 
My problem is that I think the screws are loctited in so tight. I must need to melt/break the bond. I tried the hairdryer but that didn't work. Any other ideas?
 
I've heard mention of using a soldering iron on the head of the torx screw to break the locktite free. I haven't needed to try that one personally, so take it for what it is worth. I suspect that a soldering iron does get hot enough to really mess up your scales! Don't blame me if you take my lousy advice!
 
I've HD no play issues with my digicam/DLC PM2 at all, and I've carried/used it quite a bit. I had a brown sprint PM2 that was perfect as well, but wound up trading it for another grail when I was short on funds (and I really regret trading it off...).
 
I recently received a para2 made in the past couple months. It had unacceptable bladeplay out of the box and I immediately returned it. There is no reason why anyone should have to tweak a knife to get it to be solid at that price point. The blade was also very off-centered.

I have a manix 2 XL that is my favorite knife BTW. It had zero blade-play and perfect centering out of the box. I see no reason why a para 2 at a similar price point should be different.

Also, tweaking it would possibly void the warranty. Just too much hassle.
 
RevDevil said:
Unless you have a shop grade heat gun, a hair dryer ain't gonna do much of anything to G10. That I can assure you.


Well, I happen to own about 20+ Para and Para2s. I've inspected each one as it was purchased over the last few years and I can say definitively that none of e examples I have show any blade play. I know that some folks have reported what is infact play, however in some cases it is not accurate. In addition, all of my Para2 knives have the pivots as tight as they were from the factory (which is all the way tight), and the blade open with little to no resistence. I have to conclude that Spyderco meant to design these knives in such a way as to have the pivot tightened as much as possible without the need for any adjustment; however, it would appear by some accounts that the stepped pivot is not exactly within spec. Some foks have filed burrs off and other things that weren't quite flush. Others have mentioned that the PB washers were not quite thick or were in fact too thick. Hard to say in some cases, I can only speak to what I've seen in my own pieces.
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On a brand new pm2 with no adjustment, should the blade swing down freely as soon as you disengage the lock? Assuming the knife is being held correctly. Mine does not, you can flick hour wrist and get it to close, but it certainly won't just swing down on the account of pure.gravity.
 
jalcon said:
On a brand new pm2 with no adjustment, should the blade swing down freely as soon as you disengage the lock? Assuming the knife is being held correctly. Mine does not, you can flick hour wrist and get it to close, but it certainly won't just swing down on the account of pure.gravity.
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Hey Jalcon, I adjusted mine to the point where yours is now and put loc tite on it.. That's what it took to eliminate all the blade movement. I decided that I was willing to accept a little stiffer action for a tighter lockup. What I have found is that over the last week, the action has loosened up considerably with little to no affect on the blade play. My blade now swings freely. My impression is that the washers are breaking in. I will probably tighten it up again at some point as it continues to break in, but everything is working great for now.
 
jalcon said:
On a brand new pm2 with no adjustment, should the blade swing down freely as soon as you disengage the lock? Assuming the knife is being held correctly. Mine does not, you can flick hour wrist and get it to close, but it certainly won't just swing down on the account of pure.gravity.
Click to expand...

Mine was they same way and I loosened the pivot to no avail to the point where the screws were sticking out then i adjusted the liner pin just above the pivot and it swung freely, so I tightened up the pivot and I would say it is now perfect.
 
I just got another para 2 from knifeworks after he advertised getting some in a few days ago on the dealer forum.

After messing with it for a long while, I've pretty much determined that the bladeplay I complain about cannot be fixed because it's due to the flexibility of the scales. When you apply enough pressure to the blade (not all that much really) you can see the blade move away from one of the washers as the scales flex. It then 'bumps' into the other washer as you push it back and forth, giving the sensation of a loose blade. You can tighten the pivot so that the blade can't get away from the washer, but then the blade won't move in any direction and you can't close it. I'll try some nano oil and see if that helps. I'm guessing anyone who says they don't have bladeplay isn't being as hugely picky. Some custom scales of a firmer material would probably solve this issue.
 
jalcon said:
On a brand new pm2 with no adjustment, should the blade swing down freely as soon as you disengage the lock? Assuming the knife is being held correctly. Mine does not, you can flick hour wrist and get it to close, but it certainly won't just swing down on the account of pure.gravity.
Click to expand...
All of my Para2 knives do that, to some extent. I'd say there might be something not aligned if you have to wrist flick the knife. It's not exactly supposed to fall like a guillotine.



bobjam said:
I just got another para 2 from knifeworks after he advertised getting some in a few days ago on the dealer forum.

After messing with it for a long while, I've pretty much determined that the bladeplay I complain about cannot be fixed because it's due to the flexibility of the scales. When you apply enough pressure to the blade (not all that much really) you can see the blade move away from one of the washers as the scales flex. It then 'bumps' into the other washer as you push it back and forth, giving the sensation of a loose blade. You can tighten the pivot so that the blade can't get away from the washer, but then the blade won't move in any direction and you can't close it. I'll try some nano oil and see if that helps. I'm guessing anyone who says they don't have bladeplay isn't being as hugely picky. Some custom scales of a firmer material would probably solve this issue.
Click to expand...

I still say that (based on what I see in my knives) the pivot should be able to be tightened all the way down, and the knife should operate notmally. Tightening the pivot shouldn't make the blade immovable. Again, just my experience. There could also be some variances between the stepped pivots from one run to the next. Who knows.
 
RevDevil said:
I still say that (based on what I see in my knives) the pivot should be able to be tightened all the way down, and the knife should operate notmally. Tightening the pivot shouldn't make the blade immovable. Again, just my experience. There could also be some variances between the stepped pivots from one run to the next. Who knows.
Click to expand...

All but one of my P2s (about a dozen and a half) have pivots that can be tightened enought to clamp the blade. The exception is one that can't be tightened enough to eliminate lateral play. I think it's all a question of normal tolerances. :)
 
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