Pocket folder for whittling...

unit said:
I will suggest that every suggestion you have gotten or will get is good. When it comes to whittling and carving, I find that I get the greatest satisfaction and pleasure from using whatever I have one me...and it is rarely a knife that anyone would recommend for carving.

It is all about the journey...the results are all in your mind. That said, with practice you can get results that are pleasing to others also.

I have lots of videos and photos on the subject if you are interested, shoot me a PM. Regardless, get yourself a good knife...good for whatever you think you might do with it. Then start whittling and carving. You will learn the limitations of the knife, but also learn to work with them and still produce happiness;)
Click to expand...

Hey that kind of sums it up doesn't it? thanks Unit good words mate.
 
I've carved/whittled with a lot of knives, starting with an old Boy Scout folder - then SAKs - Buck 110's - and, having arrived in Gatlinburg once with no knife, I bought a Buck 301 - super! And - if you need fine details, you have secondary blades. I later added other Stockman styles - even the stag handled Puma and bone handled Boker Tree Brand, shown below with the Buck 301 Stockman (Note it's reversed secondary blades over the German knives!). Judicious shopping on evil-bay may land you a new Buck 301 or Boker Tree Brand Stockman in the $30-$35 range on evil-bay. The Boker will likely be a carbon steel - and, like the Buck, delivered sharp. Unlike the Buck's SS, the CS Boker can grow character, ie, rust - some care is required. It will keep it's edge quite well. The stag handled Puma has "German Blade' on it, rather than 'Germany', like mine - and they are twice as much and up now. The Boker Tree Brand slipjoint classics are a great value. I have several Case knives - including three Seahorse Whittlers. Those knives are not as nice as the Bokers, sad to say, and a new one will run you $70-$300, when you find them. If you get one, strengthen your thumbnail - that main blade uses two springs!

If you end up doing a lot of fine detail whittling - or chip carving - a small straight fixed blade, like a Rick Butz carver/detail - even a small Mora - will be great - and ~$15 in a store. The main thing to do is to enjoy yourself... and that means keep your fingers out of the blade's path. Good luck!

Stainz
The three mentioned stockman knives, top down Boker Tree Brand, Puma, and Buck 301:

IMG_3384.jpg
 
hank_rearden said:
i own a chinese-made buck 371 and it looks ok for whittling. i want to try a ball-in-a-cage, which is supposed to be beginner's level, but i have to get hold of some soft wood like falcata or balsa.
Click to expand...

I would not recommend balsa for any whittling task - it splits way to easy. I'd recommend either basswood (or linden depending on where you are) or butternut.
 
uh-oh.. falcata is also very soft (chopsticks and popsicle sticks.) i'll try the chinese/malaysian palochina, used to make cargo palettes.
 
Well, after looking at a ton of knives today (most of them out of my price range, or simply not good candidates for whittling) I decided that a medium stockman was what I wanted to purchase and I found a great deal on a Buck 373 "trio" medium stockman. I was unable to find any USA made medium stockman knives, but I figure if I really enjoy the blade configuration of this Chinese made Buck, I can always hunt down a USA version sometime in the future. Thanks again for all the help and info, I really appreciate all the input that was given!
 
gcconspiracy said:
Well, after looking at a ton of knives today (most of them out of my price range, or simply not good candidates for whittling) I decided that a medium stockman was what I wanted to purchase and I found a great deal on a Buck 373 "trio" medium stockman. ... Thanks again for all the help and info, I really appreciate all the input that was given!
Click to expand...

You should be just fine with that! Enjoy the knife, and use it in good health. :)
 
A Stanley Utility knife. Not very romantic, but the inexpensive replacable blades are thin and sharp. even if you do not finish the entire project with it, it is great for roughing out and hogging off a lot of wood without dulling your other , more agile knife you switch it out with when people are looking.
 
i am getting a my first opinel and you should check it out. its tip is blunt so you dont stab yourself if the knife slips while whittling and it only costs like, $13.00
 
Okay, so I've just spent a good chunk of my evening sharpening, honing, and stropping all three blades on my new Buck 373, and I must say I am impressed! Every last blade shaves without hesitation (now I'll have to wear long sleeves for a couple of weeks! Lol!), now I will just wait and see how edge retention is.

Funny thing about this knife, I was looking at the package and it says the blade steel is 420HC! Buck's web site seems to indicate that the 373 should have 420J2 blade steel, so I am not sure what to think... The knife is stamped with the 2011 symbol on the tang, so it is not likely an issue of old stock... If anyone has any info on this, I would be very interested.
 
meako said:
Hey that kind of sums it up doesn't it? thanks Unit good words mate.
Click to expand...

Thanks. If I can be any help, feel free to PM me. I am not great at carving but I am awesome when it comes to enjoying my time with a blade;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top