Pocket kwaiken WIP

[Phillip Patton]

Hey all,

Last fall, I started making kwaiken because of some threads Joe Paranee had going. Since then, I've added a few different sizes to me repertoire. Some of you might have seen a couple small ones I made in December for my parents. This one is similar, but with a few changes. I'm making it for a fellow forumite, who can identify himself if he likes.

Originally I was going to use what I thought was some W2/416 laminate, but it turned out to be solid 440C. So we decided to go with damascus instead. I didn't take any pictures of making the steel, but we've all seen that before, right? It's a fairly simple twist pattern in 1084 and 15n20.

Before doing too much work, I always like to make patterns. Sometimes I like to "go with the flow", but usually I want to know where I'm going. Patterns help.


The copper colored pattern is for a full tang version. From it I made a pattern in aluminum for a hidden tang version, which this knife will be.

This pattern is for the handle/sheath:

Here I've scribed the outline on the micarta that will be the handle/sheath, and that's all I can do there until the blade is finished.

Here's a random photo of my shop cat, Moses. He likes to keep me from getting things done. Standing or sitting on my work is his favorite technique:

 

[Phillip Patton]

As I said before, I don't have any photos of making the steel, so here it is, forged, thermal cycled, and ground clean. Also the outline "Sharpied" on:

The extra material is removed with a bandsaw, and the profile refined with the grinder:

Then the shoulders are filed in using my Bruce Bump file guide:

Then the edge is painted with Dykem, and the centerline scribed in with my Patton edge scribe (this is going to be a double ground kwaiken):

Then the edges are pre-beveled:

And then the bevels are ground in:

 

[Lycosa]

Gonna be good.
rolf

 

[Phillip Patton]

Next, the flats, edges, and bevels are finished to 220 grit:

Then my stamp is applied, and the blade is given a quick etch. This helps the liquid anti-scale compound I use stick better. It tends to bead up on clean steel.

Here it is after quenching, but before tempering. Nice and clean.

 

[BenR.T.]

Looking good Phillip!

 

[Lycosa]

dunt mess up the handle.

 

[Dawkind]

That's sweet!!! [emoji106]

 

[Lance23]

Looks awesome!

 

[Camber]

Really digging it

 

[Phillip Patton]

Thanks for tuning in, y'all!

Ok, after tempering at 400 F, the blade is around 60.5 RC:

I also reground it with 60 grit on the bevels, and sanded the top and bottom edges to 600 grit:

Now I can use the blade to mark out the area that will have to be routed out, trying very hard to position it in the same place on both halves:

This is the tool I'll be using to rout. A nice setup, for this sort of thing:

 

[Phillip Patton]

I'm routing this freehand, and I've found that I can stick to the line better if the line is to the right side of the bit. So I do the right side lines first:

then turn the piece of micarta around and do the other sides:

Now the stuff inside the lines is removed. Here's the first half done, and, behold, the blade fits inside it:

Other half done:

And that's all for today, folks. Sleep well, and have a good weekend!

 

[Logan Pearce]

Very nice. I like it!

 

[Lycosa]

holeekow!!!

 

[Phillip Patton]

Ok, the next step is to bandsaw out the shapes from the sheet of micarta:

And then try it out for fit. The knife blade is inside the two halves here, and rattling around a little, which is good. I don't have to rout the channels deeper.

Now the handle and sheath sections are cut apart. I clamp the pieces securely to the workbench, and also clamped in place a piece of brass to guide the cut. I'm using a Zona saw. Great for fine, precise cuts.

 

[MarkJeffrey]

Awesome WIP! Really like the way you went about making the handle and the sheath

 

[Phillip Patton]

The fit of the blade in the sheath:

and the tang in the handle:

I'm installing some small magnets in the sheath to aid in retention. So a bunch of holes are drilled where the flats will be. The magnets need to be recessed a little, or they would scratch up the blade.

The holes in the tang areas are for epoxy "pins".

Now the mating surfaces of the handle are sanded flat, being careful not to remove too much material. Don't want things too tight.

Now a little epoxy is mixed up. I'm using West Systems G-Flex.

I then applied as little as I could to one half. I don't want a bunch of epoxy squeezing out into the tang cavity, although it wouldn't be too hard to remove it with a broach.

Then it's clamped together. G-flex sets up very slowly, so I probably won't be able to do anything more on the micarta pieces until tomorrow. Plenty to do on the blade, though.

 

[Phillip Patton]

Now the magnets are glued in, using superglue.

The glue is filed or scraped down. I had to replace one of the magnets, because it was proud of the micarta.

When everything looks good, the sheath halves are epoxied together also, and both halves are set close to my wood stove, to speed up the process some.

 

[Lycosa]

I love those red grips.

 

[NorthernSouthpaw]

GREAT WIP!!
Thanks for taking us along for the ride.

 

[BenR.T.]

Thanks for sharing! Makes me want to try it!