pointed blade, opinions please

B . Buxton

B . Buxton

Joined
Jul 8, 2001
Messages
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About a week or so ago a friend came by my shop and we were talking about the perfect gutting knife, we only have whitetails around my area so we started talking about what would be nice in the way of size and shape. We decided it needed to have a long keen blade and point to cut in and around the anus, but not so long that it would be difficult to handle inside the body cavity when reaching in and up to cut the trachea loose, should also be small enough to take it by the spine to where only the point can be used to open the hide.
Well I had a piece of cable and 52100 mix that I welded up the other day laying there, so yesterday I forged it to shape and today I finished heat treating and etched, I forgot to mention my buddy wanted it made from something a little unusual too, so thats why I used this.
Now what do you guys think, is this blade shape worth making again or should I do some major changing. Also what would you all like to see as handle material on a good working gutter. I figured a small guard just enough to keep the hand from sliding up the handle and a piece of whitetail antler.
This blade is 4" from point to guard stops. thanks for all comments. ;)

Bill
 
..I don't hunt much, and I skin even less... ;)

But, since you asked, yes, you're onto something there.

I'd suggest a few minor modifications...

A little more upturn at the tip, just a bit.
A little more flat ground secondary bevel...move it up another .250
A little longer blade, maybe 4.500
A down turned handle, just a little...

Think RMK #20 or #22 modified, with just a bit more down turn in the handle.

I'm partial to stacked leather too, but anything 'grippy' will do.

A full hilt, .250 rounded on top, .500 on the bottom should give a good grip.

For choking up, a .500 choil on bottom, and a 'roughed up' upper .500 at the hilt should do well also.

Beautiful blade btw, nicely done!

Mel
 
Real good looking Bill. I have never been a fan of upswept skinners, so to me, it looks great.:cool:
 
Hey Bill, whitetails here to. I don`t like anything
over 3 1/2" for ablade , 3" is even better. I do
like a little drop in the handle. This seem to work best
for me when I`m inside the deer. Oh! an I don`t like a
blade any wider then 3/4 to 1". You really don`t need a
big blade for whitetails. But hey what do I know, I`ve
cleaned more squirels & groundhogs then deer. I always
thought a blade shaped like a case muskrat would be great
for around the deer anus. Just my $.02
 
Hi Bill,
I like it. It reminds me of some of the Nordic style blades.
Stag's a favorite. I look forward to seeing how you finish it.
Regards,
Greg
 
Bill,
I like what you have shown but I use a blade a little more narrow. I have found that it helps with removing the tenderloins and backstrap to have a fairly narrow blade. For me, 3 1/2 to 4 inches is plenty.

What you have, in my opinion, looks pretty good. You can dress the whole deer with a knife of that sort and never break stride.

As far as the handle material, stag of course.

C Wilkins
 
Ah...er...Bill...that's shameful, you better send that over to Iowa right away before anyone else sees it...I'll dispose of it quietly for you...won't tell anyone...shhhh...

Dave
 
Fantastic pattern Bill....
That design will do a great job on any whitetail that your buddy gets down.Around here 3-4 inches is really all we use for skinning,gutting,and quartering up.That size is great for removing the backstraps and tenderloins also.
IMHO a small guard and stag would just set that knife off and make anyone proud to carry it.
Bruce
 
That is a very nice blade!!! I was reminded of a skein dubh(I know that is spelled wrong) as soon as I saw it. I do a lot of hunting and it looks like it would be perfectly serviceable on a deer or any type of small game. NICE!!!

HillbillyChuck
 
Bill, that is an increadable piece of damascus. And a good functional blade shape too.

Since you asked, I'll through in my .02$ worth. For me I like a little more belly, with about a 3/4" choil for choking up. I also like a little more than a just a small gaurd, but I've got big hands.

All in all it looks like a great little work horse.
 
The blade looks great. Dont change a thing, and definitely make more of them. In fact, if you need a field tester, let me know!
 
Since you asked, Personally I would say keep the shape, no wider than 7/8, no guard just a finger groove, as it helps you reach a little deeper, and becuase of the no guard, you need a grippy handle like a bead blasted finish, that way when you get inside, the knife can`t just squirt out of your hands!
Not to brag, but I`ve been here, as I often work as a big game guide in the fall....and we have LOTS of whitetails!
 
I agree with Ron, no guard just a finger groove. Since it's a user- canvas micarta with a very coarse finish. BTW, beautiful piece of damascus, that mix should be a good performer.
 
Beautiful Blade. Maybe I'm missing something but I thought the issue was a gutting (field Knife) I have special knives for certain tasks. I asmit sometimes I make one cross over but as a field knife, I like a shorter blade of about 3 1/2. 4" is not out of line (IMHO). I like a full flat grind. This gives me strength and a very sharp blade. I admit I like about 1 1/2 to 2 inches wide. Just a preference and it does make it a little awkward working around the western end.

The handle material is not as important to me as the the fact that it is well stabalized. The guard should be small and completely soldered to keep blood on the outside of the knife.

Now a skinner is another breed altogether and I find it difficult to field dress a deer with my favorite skinner.

Sorry for being long winded....that blade should make a great field knife. IMHO
 
No Peter, you have it right, thats the main purpose for this knife, to make the job of gutting a whitetail easy and clean while in the field, skinning and butchering is a different knife. :D If this was intended to be used by a person that was going to spend several days in the woods, it would be a totally different scenario, the fact is that the majority of the whitetails killed are just gutted and then hauled to the local meat processing plant to be skinned, cut and wrapped. So the intended purpose is for just that purpose, gutting.

Thanks Guys I really appreciate all the comments.

Bill
 
Bill, another beauty, by gosh. You are really cranking out some georgeous blades in cable-mixes. I ain't gonna comment on the blade as a specific hunter, but just say that is a heck of an everyday pattern, suitable to darn near any all-around task. I'd make that a standard just as is. A bit of a false edge and it's a small fighter, boot style, double guard. A single guard and it's a good general hunter. For cutting out that rear vent on a whitetail, I actually use a skinny blade like a Rapala filet knife. As far as handles go, choose that whitetail section cautiously. Very soft, it is, with alot more pith than elk species like sambar. Best to stabilize the stuff, much as I personally don't like the plastic feel.
Keep it up, bud, yer on to a good style!
 
Nice looking blade Bill. I like the cable damascus with the 52100 core. Should be a real cutter.

As far as the style is concerned, I've been making folders with this pattern and I've found them to be very useful. The point is right where you need it to be and the upswept edge allows for long smooth cutting strokes. It's a pattern used on working knives going back centuries, and rightfully so in my opinion.

I'm looking forward to seeing it finished.
 
OK guys,
What do you all think of this handle, the guard is cable D just hasn't been etched yet and the stag handle is just pushed on. Do you think a spacer should be added, the crown should be cut off and a cable D butt cap added, leave as is, or scrap the whole thing and use something else.
The reason for all the opinions is I'm trying to develop a knife that everyone has to have :D , therefore lots of sales :D , then a real long vacation :D .

Thanks
Bill
 
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