I started work on my MAS L6 today while waiting for the Giants vs Braves game to start. My main purpose was to first resharpen the edge a bit, and then see if I could make the hamon stand out a bit more. When I bought the blade it had a mirror polish, but the hamon didn't stand out too well. It cut like a laser though, and it was for the steel strength and cutting ability that I got it for, vs the looks.
The first step was to use a 6000 grit stone and just sharpen the edge a bit by placing the blade flat against the stone, then lifting the mune ever-so-slightly, and then drawing the blade across the stone, adding a little bit of pressure on the return stroke. I worked on just the monouchi area and tested it on a sheet of paper. While trying to slice through the paper, if it caught on a certain portion and started to tear, then I'd work on that portion, drawing it lightly across the polishing stone until such time that it could slice cleanly.
As someone told me on another forum, the above technique leaves a shiney line along the ha, so I decided to do more polishing to mask that line and try to bring out the hamon a bit.
Next step was to use some wet/dry sandpaper. I lubricated the blade with some silicone spray lubricant and started with 1500 grit paper, then progressed to 2000 grit, and finally stopped at 2500 grit. I worked inch-by-inch right on down the blade.
I noticed that 2000 grit made the hamon stand out a bit more, and the 2500 grit made the hamon a little darker.
I stopped at 2500 grit and took the attached pics.
My next step, later this weekend, is to see if the jitekko nugui that I got from Fred Lohman a few years ago will darken the Ji area. (I haven't decided yet if I want to risk doing some acid etching to bring out the hamon.)
After that step, I'll use some 2500 grit paper and create a Yokote. I'm still stumped as to why MAS won't take that extra step to create a Yokote on their L6 blades...
The final step would be to take some 6000 grit paper use it to create a mirror-like finish on the Shinogi-Ji and the Mune.
The first step was to use a 6000 grit stone and just sharpen the edge a bit by placing the blade flat against the stone, then lifting the mune ever-so-slightly, and then drawing the blade across the stone, adding a little bit of pressure on the return stroke. I worked on just the monouchi area and tested it on a sheet of paper. While trying to slice through the paper, if it caught on a certain portion and started to tear, then I'd work on that portion, drawing it lightly across the polishing stone until such time that it could slice cleanly.
As someone told me on another forum, the above technique leaves a shiney line along the ha, so I decided to do more polishing to mask that line and try to bring out the hamon a bit.
Next step was to use some wet/dry sandpaper. I lubricated the blade with some silicone spray lubricant and started with 1500 grit paper, then progressed to 2000 grit, and finally stopped at 2500 grit. I worked inch-by-inch right on down the blade.
I noticed that 2000 grit made the hamon stand out a bit more, and the 2500 grit made the hamon a little darker.
I stopped at 2500 grit and took the attached pics.
My next step, later this weekend, is to see if the jitekko nugui that I got from Fred Lohman a few years ago will darken the Ji area. (I haven't decided yet if I want to risk doing some acid etching to bring out the hamon.)
After that step, I'll use some 2500 grit paper and create a Yokote. I'm still stumped as to why MAS won't take that extra step to create a Yokote on their L6 blades...
The final step would be to take some 6000 grit paper use it to create a mirror-like finish on the Shinogi-Ji and the Mune.