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Polishing question
- Thread starter Disco Stu
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
Disco Stu-
What kind of buffing wheel are you using? I wouldn't recommend a Dremel for polishing a blade (although they do have a thousand other uses in a knifemaking shop).
I typically would say that Scratchless Pink compound from K&G on a loose buff would do just the trick. If that still didn't remove the scratches then you could go back over it with Green-chrome compound on a hard-sewn buff.
But it depends on your buffer, the depth of the scratches, and the type of wheel, etc.
If you really want to do it by hand, then just start working up through your sand-paper.
I like to use Cool Tool II with my paper when I hand sand. If you rub the blade out to 2500 grit it will shine.
One last option is Flitz metal polish/fiber-glass cleaner. I have used it with pretty consistent success.
Best of luck to you,
Nick
What kind of buffing wheel are you using? I wouldn't recommend a Dremel for polishing a blade (although they do have a thousand other uses in a knifemaking shop).
I typically would say that Scratchless Pink compound from K&G on a loose buff would do just the trick. If that still didn't remove the scratches then you could go back over it with Green-chrome compound on a hard-sewn buff.
But it depends on your buffer, the depth of the scratches, and the type of wheel, etc.
If you really want to do it by hand, then just start working up through your sand-paper.
I like to use Cool Tool II with my paper when I hand sand. If you rub the blade out to 2500 grit it will shine.
One last option is Flitz metal polish/fiber-glass cleaner. I have used it with pretty consistent success.
Best of luck to you,
Nick
- Joined
- Apr 19, 1999
- Messages
- 3,560
Forget the dremel, not enough power.
On the buffer use a sewn wheel (1/2" spacing of stitches) and green compound. The first rule is to use lots of compound, cotton is not hard enough to do the work alone and recoat the wheel every 30 seconds or so. Go slow so some heat builds up, heat helps the compound to work. Overlap passes and when all of the scratches are gone reduce pressure and do a couple of light passes to clean up the excess compound and eliminate buffing lines.
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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com
On the buffer use a sewn wheel (1/2" spacing of stitches) and green compound. The first rule is to use lots of compound, cotton is not hard enough to do the work alone and recoat the wheel every 30 seconds or so. Go slow so some heat builds up, heat helps the compound to work. Overlap passes and when all of the scratches are gone reduce pressure and do a couple of light passes to clean up the excess compound and eliminate buffing lines.
------------------
george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com
- Joined
- Nov 9, 1999
- Messages
- 1,137
These 'scratches' are extremely fine. More like a very slight scuffing. And other than that, the blade is already mirror polished. Shouldn't an ultra-fine sandpaper do the job?
I don't like to take a knife to my large buffing wheel because it only has one setting, Lightspeed. I've had knives go flying off before because I pressed a little too hard.
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Disco Stu
A Finger Saved, is a Finger Earned
I don't like to take a knife to my large buffing wheel because it only has one setting, Lightspeed. I've had knives go flying off before because I pressed a little too hard.
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Disco Stu
A Finger Saved, is a Finger Earned
