Polishing wooden handles

[Randydb]

Joe, the issue is that oil is not film building. Cured tung or teak oil "which is just tung oil with a little bit of varnish mixed in making it closer to a Danish oil" is so soft it can be picked away with a finger nail.

The simple fact is there are really no finishes you can apply to a knife that will really PROTECT the wood. The best you can hope for is make it more beautiful.

That's why knife makers use these incredibly hard, tough, oily or stabalized woods. Because they don't NEED protecting.

That's why I use a wax finish. When I make a handle out of kingwood or cocobolo or ironwood, I'm not trying to "protect" it when I finish it. I'm making it more attractive. With the possible exception of a thick layer of UV Cured polyurethane the wood is going to be orders of magnitude stronger than the finaih.

Everyone talking about shellac is referring to exotics woods used in decorative applications as boxes or decorative turned bowls. Not things that will be handled all day like knives.

What Greenberg says! I stabilize the wood first if it is a type that needs it or can be stabilized. That fills all the small pores and makes the wood stronger. Then when I sand I get a super smooth surface right up to 2000 grit. It would be useless to sand through 2000 with many unstabilized woods because the grit is way finer than the size of pores in the grain. You have to get all the scratches from the previous grit out before moving up to the next grit.
The final finishes like oils and waxes are just to make the grain pop a bit more and make it look even better. It doesn't protect the wood from a scratch, scuff, or bump.

 

[joedhiggins]

Ben,

I mostly agree, that oil finishes offer little surface protection against abrasion. but they do impregnate the wood well and provide significant protection against certain solvents, water damage, UV, etc.

I am 100% with you on shellacs. But, for a safe queen or something similar, it would be fine. I do a ton of blacksmithing, and have used hardening oil finishes on all of my hammer handles. I can tell you that such finishes are FAR more durable than essentially any other finish you can put on wood that gets handled constantly. It isn't that these finishes keep their sheen, but they protect the wood very well against major discoloration, they harden, so, after curing, they don't pick up grime like a wax does. They strengthen the surface of the wood that they penetrate, making it more abrasion resistant. I will agree that this sort of finish is far more useful on softer hardwoods than it is on the really tough exotics. For something like ironwood or blackwood, I wouldn't really bother with anything past a wax finish. But, on hickory, ash, mahogany, walnut, etc., you will note a greatly increased wear resistance. Especially if you do a gunstock finish with something with a varnish or hardening agent.

By gunstock I mean many coats of something like tru-oil, wiping and abrading off any surface build up. It really all depends on the wood you are using. I like working with the dense exotics, and I agree that they tend to make very durable handles, but if for weight, cost, or visual concerns you use something without their innate durability, you would be well served using a penetrating finish.

And as to getting a high gloss finish on wood, sure ironwood/ebony/blackwood/etc. can simply be sanded, polished, and waxed to a gloss, that just isn't going to happen on something without the incredibly tight grain structure that you see in those woods. To achieve a high gloss finish on something like that, you are going to NEED a build finish or stabilizing/impregnation. There are some UV/heat curing finishes, epoxy finishes, CA and I am sure some other options that will provide a gloss finish. These finishes will be more prone to certain types of abrasion and chipping, but may serve for light to medium duty applications. CA is commonly used for pens, and other small pieces and provides a reasonably durable finish. Wax is often a good finish over any of these base layers for an added sheen and some minor protection of the surface.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

I just use woods that don't need finishes. Sand to 400, buff with 0000 steel wool, polish with green compound, wax.

 

[Fred.Rowe]

Before any type of finish is applied to the surface, its the preparation of the wood surface that sets the piece up for a great visual appearance.
For burls, I use several burnishing tools to "level" the surface of the wood fibers. If its a hard burl wood a six inch section of brass rod works well to smooth out the finger notches and curves along the bottom of the handle. Use a burnishing with quick pressure strokes. I like to follow the brass rod with a section of thick 10/12 oz leather. Use the edge of the leather, pinched between index finger and thumb. For the final burnish Levi or blue jean material is very effective at bringing out the highlights of any burl. If the job is done correctly there is no need to coat the handle with oil or poly.
If burnishing is done to woods like Koa or black olive it really brings out the holographic look, where the pattern appears to float in the air.

Give burnishing a shot if you have never done so before, I think you will find this technique worthwhile.

Fred

 

[Matt Rochester]

Before any type of finish is applied to the surface, its the preparation of the wood surface that sets the piece up for a great visual appearance.
For burls, I use several burnishing tools to "level" the surface of the wood fibers. If its a hard burl wood a six inch section of brass rod works well to smooth out the finger notches and curves along the bottom of the handle. Use a burnishing with quick pressure strokes. I like to follow the brass rod with a section of thick 10/12 oz leather. Use the edge of the leather, pinched between index finger and thumb. For the final burnish Levi or blue jean material is very effective at bringing out the highlights of any burl. If the job is done correctly there is no need to coat the handle with oil or poly.
If burnishing is done to woods like Koa or black olive it really brings out the holographic look, where the pattern appears to float in the air.

Give burnishing a shot if you have never done so before, I think you will find this technique worthwhile.

Fred

Never heard of this but will it work for curly maple that has been stabilized?

 

[Fred.Rowe]

Absolutely! Especially on hard woods like maple. Burnishing is a very old technique.

The next time you finish a handle, sand it as you normally would, when you get to the spot where you would put it up against a buffing wheel, try burnishing instead. There is something about rubbing the surface of wood with smooth round objects that gives "depth" to how it looks. More so than any other technique I know of. I've been a wood worker in some form for 50 years, I just happen to be making knives today.

A very smooth deer antler tine works exceptionally well as a substitute for the brass rod.

Fred

 

[TonyRV2]

Absolutely! Especially on hard woods like maple. Burnishing is a very old technique.

The next time you finish a handle, sand it as you normally would, when you get to the spot where you would put it up against a buffing wheel, try burnishing instead. There is something about rubbing the surface of wood with smooth round objects that gives "depth" to how it looks. More so than any other technique I know of. I've been a wood worker in some form for 50 years, I just happen to be making knives today.

A very smooth deer antler tine works exceptionally well as a substitute for the brass rod.

Fred

This has peaked my interest Fred. But why a brass rod? Wouldn't say a stainless steel rod be just as effective in laying down the fibers?

 

[Fred.Rowe]

This has peaked my interest Fred. But why a brass rod? Wouldn't say a stainless steel rod be just as effective in laying down the fibers?

I'm sure it would. I just happen to have brass. It needs to be rounded so it slides over the fibers. Try it, you will find this useful. The antler tine works very well as stated.

Fred

 

[TonyRV2]

I will try it for sure....thanks for the tip.

 

[Teppojutsu]

This has peaked my interest Fred. But why a brass rod? Wouldn't say a stainless steel rod be just as effective in laying down the fibers?

Would a stainless rod leave any oxides or black residue on the woods?
That's why I thought brass lol

 

[HSC ///]

I don't see why you would want to use anything other than ironwood?
no stabilizing and no oil required, heavy, dense, hard, what could be more perfect than "nature's gift to knifemakers"?

just kidding,

 

[TonyRV2]

Would a stainless rod leave any oxides or black residue on the woods?
That's why I thought brass lol

I had the same thought, which is why I'd asked. I've got both brass and stainless rod in the shop...I'll just give it a try and see what happens.

 

[Tom Lewis]

How about some pictures?

 

[joedhiggins]

Would a stainless rod leave any oxides or black residue on the woods?
That's why I thought brass lol

Use any metal rod. Nylon also works (though not as well on the hardest of woods. All you need for burnishing is something that is as hard or slightly harder than what you want to burnish. Wood turners often burnish with sawdust/shavings.

 

[Teppojutsu]

Thanks Joe ^
I have seen turners grab a handful of shavings to burnish as well

 

[John Andrews]

I cut to the chase by having all my wood stabilized. It is silly easy to then finish or polish.

 

[Matthew Gregory]

How about some pictures?

Agreed!!!!!

There have been a few vioices in here asking - SHOW US!

 

[Wulf]

I'm with Tom - let's see pictures. Opinions, experiences and anecdotes are great, but actual results are much more persuasive.

For comparative purposes, here's an Arizona Desert Ironwood burl handle I recently completed:

The finish on this was very simple. I sanded to 1200 grit, then gently rubbed in two coats of antique wax, waiting a day between coats.

There. I showed you mine. Now you show me yours

 

[Tom Lewis]

Wulf, beautiful handle! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Randydb]

Both of these handles are stabilized maple burl. Kitchen knife is sanded to 1500, then 2 coats of tru oil. Then firm rub with my tshirt to take the shine down. Necker is to 2000 with 3 coats of tru oil. Then a couple coats of carnuba wax.