Poll: How do you sharpen your knives?

Joined
May 26, 1999
Messages
1,964
How do you personally choose to sharpen your knives? What kind of stones do you use? What angles do you use? Do you use a system or angle guide? Do you strop? Would you consider yourself to be a good sharpener?
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I just use a Norton fine India stone for most sharpening stuff. For awhile, I'd finish with a hard black Arkansas stone, but the polished edge it left was not very durable, although it cut well.

Angles I use vary a lot, but I usually sharpen free-hand and I almost never use a strop. I'm pretty satisfied with my sharpening skills, although I must admit that the ultra hard stainless steels can still be frustrating.
 
I use the Sharpmaker 204, although I play around with pressure, and the final angle at which I smooth off the last burr.

After that, I like to steel it on a Razor's Edge steel.

I'm still a beginner sharpener, but I'm finding practical value in using light to test the straightness of the edge, and feeling for the burr with my fingernail.
 
I cheat and use a Lansky with diamond stones. I strop a couple of strokes afterwards. I've been getting better results if I don't go all the way down to the extra fine stone. I've been stopping after one or two times per side with the fine, and then briefly stroping, very scary sharp
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Dan

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http://www.gogetemgear.com/
 
I started sharpening with a Lansky system, of course I had all Benchmades and needed something to really thin out the edges. When I bought my first MicroTech I also bought a Sharpmaker 204. The Sharpmaker is awesome. I wouldn't use it to try to sharpen a super dull, edge all whacked out knife. It's great for maintaining and edge. After sharpening with the Sharpmaker I strop it with a hardcover book. I don't have leather strop so the book does it for now. It works fairly well. I am looking at the EdgePro Professional sharpener. Expensive but everything i've read on it is that it is awesome. Maybe for Christmas.

Jeff
 
For edge-modification on a new knife, I start with a soft arkansas and graduate to a medium ceramic stone when the edge is made.

Then I use a 2-stage leather hone system, starting with 600-grit abrasive powder to polish and finish with extremely fine 10000-grit chromium oxide powder.

I have a Lansky system, and I think good arguments can be made for these systems to assure constant angles in edge-formation. Same can be said for the sharpmaker system.
 
I use Japanese water stones. If necessary a 250 grit stone removes a good deal of steel quickly. I then switch to a 800 or 1000 grit stone. The final edge is honed with a 4000 grit stone. For light touch ups I use a fine ceramic rod (shaped like a kitchen steel) Angles are about 20 degrees between the knife spine and stone.
 
I'm a beginner. Prior to getting my 204 I only did the field sharpening routine. Currently, I use a 204 for quick results but have been playing around with arkansas and ceramic stones. I haven't used a strop yet but will very soon.

Depending on the blade material and initial angle set by the maker, I can generally get a knife extremely sharp on the 204. I'm getting alot better with the freehand method of sharpening. I'm using cheapo knives and some of my hard users to practice with (freehand sharpening).

One day, I'll get there!

Would love to work for a knife company putting edges on blades!
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GigOne
"Livin' Life - Full Throttle"
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"Happiness is a belt-fed weapon & a Walter Brend Model 2!"
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I use Arkansas and Wa****a stones as well as diamond hones and I strop too. It all depends on what kind of steel I am sharpening and what kind of edge I want. I am still experimenting and learning. I think sharpening is an art form in and of itself. I hope to master it someday.
 
Freehand:

1 - re-profile with Norton (coarse black/fine tan India)
2 - working edge with old grey medium-fine grit stone I've had for years (circular sharpening motion)
3 - polish with Arkansas white (still in circles)
4 - sometimes strop, sometimes not
5 - maintain with steel or sharpmaker rods

NOTE - I got the old Sharpmaker (203) for cheap, but I can't really use it as intended. Doesn't matter though, just bought it for the rods, to freehand serrations, recurves and to touch up edges.

NOTE 2 - I bought a cheap Normark (?) sharpening jig a long time ago. It does work very well for smallish blades but I still can control the freehand better. Try doing a chisel with a jig
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RLR

PS - although the grits I know aren't super sophisticated (i.e., medium, fine, coarse) and I can't calculate angles or check them under a magnifier, I think I do a better job than most. Never had one complaint, and have had more than a few "WOW!" Now I'm done tooting my own horn.

[This message has been edited by RLR (edited 11-07-2000).]
 
Arkansas soft, hard and then black. I sharpen free hand and dont have to much trouble keeping a consistant angle. I usually go about 20 degrees on the soft and hard and then kick it up some when I work it on the black. I am going to give stropping a try just because ... but I am very happy with the edge I get. My Sebenza requires a bit more time and patience but unfortunatly I usually leave this knife go until its a butter knife before I go at it. I just bought a DMT course for tearing up the edge when the need arises.

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ALex

http://home.att.net./~a.boriqua

Updated 10/15/00
 
I also cheat and use a Lansky.
Say what you will, but I can consistently get my knives "scary sharp" with this system. The only problem with it is that the stones eventually clog up to the point of not cutting the steel any more. Cleanser works only so long at cleaning the carbon out of the stones. Does anyone else have this problem? What do you do about it?
Thanks,
Lenny
 
I like the Edge-Pro for one primary reason. Not only is the angle setting infinitely adjustable, but they include polishing tapes which render a mirror finish to the bevel. I've heard some people refer to a very sharp knife as 'scary sharp.' My firends and I refer to our edges as 'spooky sharp.' On a Saturday afternoon, sometimes we get together and socialize and show each other our collections. Invariably, there's blood everywhere. No one is in pain, the knives are still clean, but the blood is undeniable. We often joke that 'spooks' have cut us. I sold a knife to Classified00, and he commented that he 'couldn't feel any burr.' While watching TV, he skimmed the knife across his leg and effortlessly popped hair. I have also seen idiots, despite my warnings, skid the knife across the back of their hands with predictable results.--OKG
 
I use a set of Crock Sticks. I have the Lansky system, but don't much care for it (just a personal preference, it DOES get them blades scary sharp!). I'm getting ready to sell it over on the exchange forum. Only been used twice.
 
Primarily freehand. Set profile with coarse diamond bench hone (or use belt sander in extreme cases). Remove scratches and set primary edge using extra-fine diamond hone. Finish with a few strokes on medium then extra fine crock sticks set at 19 degrees. Strop with plain leather then take a couple more light strokes with extra-fine ceramic rods at 20 degrees.

I never use guides, but I often use other hones and strops depending on how the blade responds to my normal technique.
 
Seb, you can learn the mechanics of free hand sharpening in an hour. You will spend much longer mastering it. Get some "beater" knives to practice on until you are comfortable before you try something you don't want to screw up. How long it takes depends on the individual, like sports. Some people pick it up fast, some never do.
 
Arkansas stones free hand. Soft, hard, then a fine white ceramic ( until I can pick up a surgical baldck arkansas stone)
Don't really know what then angle is. I change it a little depending on the knife. Probabyl around 20 degress.

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It'll feel better when it stops hurting.
 
EdgePro Professional model, for most of my folders I use 21 degrees and polish to 3000 then strop to a mirror finish. Maintaining the edge is done through a smooth steel and strop. Sharp? Push cut cigarette paper
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I use my Spydie Sharpmaker 203, and get my knives so darn sharp that I'm now afraid to handle them anymore.
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Dann Fassnacht
Aberdeen, WA
glockman99@hotmail.com
ICQ# 53675663
 
I started with a Gatco angle system.

I now use the Sharpmaker 203.
I also own the 2 profiles and the Spydie jewlers set.

I also have 3 DMT stones. Pocket x-fine and fine and the corse and fine duo folder.

I find the sharpmaker the best.

It took me 8 years to be here now. I am confident in sharpening all my knives to a better than factory edge. I do use a leather belt to strop sometimes. I am now looking to get a 204 and a butchers straight steel.

W.A.

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"To strive to seek to find and not to yield"
Tenneson
Ranger motto
 
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