Recommendation? Poll: How to improve the convex edge on a 3v knife

How would you improve this convex edge on a new 3v knife?

  • Complete reprofile to a flat v-bevel edge

    Votes: 3 60.0%

  • Keep the convex edge and sharpen it using normal convex sharpening method

    Votes: 1 20.0%

  • Keep the convex edge but add a small v-bevel or micro-bevel edge

    Votes: 1 20.0%

  • Other (please explain in comments)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    5
M

maximus83

Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Messages
2,102
Well normally I stick with thinner blades :D, but always wanted to get one 'sharpened pry bar' in a super tough steel. Will test this out on a backpacking trip this summer along with my multitool. Specs: knife by: GTI (Knife Center), OAL: 11.5", blade: 6.75", thickness: 0.25", steel: CPM 3v, grind: high sabre + hollow + convex edge. For those who might recognize this knife, it's based on the original Ontario RD6 design.

The question is how to best improve the convexed edge. It's reasonably sharp but obviously cannot resist the urge to make it better. :p A few ways I can see to tackle this, as in the poll. Regardless how you vote, very interested to hear additional comments on how you'd improve this edge.

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I would...

Flatten the edge on a stone because it looks like it needs it, then I would stick to around 15 degrees per side and polish to your liking.

IMO, convex edges are pointless especially if you hand sharpen already. Full convex grinds are a different story, they actually have a purpose. A full convex to zero is a beautiful thing but I will admit that I still like a V edge on a full convex blade. Doesn't seem to change performance and is far easier to maintain.
 
The blade also looks to have a bit of a overgrind in the middle which would make going convex rather difficult because the middle of the blade will want to grind faster than the front or back causing it to recurve without intention.
 
Jason B. said:
I would...

Flatten the edge on a stone because it looks like it needs it, then I would stick to around 15 degrees per side and polish to your liking.

IMO, convex edges are pointless especially if you hand sharpen already. Full convex grinds are a different story, they actually have a purpose. A full convex to zero is a beautiful thing but I will admit that I still like a V edge on a full convex blade. Doesn't seem to change performance and is far easier to maintain.
Click to expand...

This was my original thought when I got it--flatten to v-bevel for both better maintenance going forward, and to kind of even out the edge grind. Then I got to thinking: this is thick blade stock, it'll take a LOT of metal removal, by hand (I don't have a powered sharpening system here), to get that done even on my Manticore or Atoma 140 or DMT XC. So I'm debating the merits of doing this and going the whole 9, versus keep it as-is for now and put a small v-bevel on it for maintenance and to improve the edge.
 
I know if it were me and I decided to convex it would take 3 days longer than using a stone, its a lot of work and sandpaper. I would also flatten the primary grind and zero convex from primary bevel shoulder to apex.

The Atoma 140 should EAT that steel, I would estimate about 10 minutes or less on a Atoma 140 and the edge would be ready for a stone progression. Personally, I don't feel that 3v is all that hard to sharpen, YMMV.
 
Just focus on the total geometry and dial it in for what you want it to have for performance qualities. Flat vs. convex is mostly not going to matter unless you also include the angle you put on the apex. Between the two at equal edge angle a flat edge will have more supporting material at the shoulder but also won't cut deep with as great of ease as a result. Convex edges are just a thinning of the geometry behind the apex angle.
 
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