Pommel for leather handle

E

elasmonut

Joined
Feb 15, 2006
Messages
662
I am attempting my first stacked leather handle, I have the blade done narrow rectangle tang with the end inch or so round and threaded.
My question is what do you think is the best way to attach the pommel? Just a blind hole in the pommel threaded to screw on to the tang?
Or a hole right through the pommel and a hollow threaded cap screw that can be tightened once the pommel is on?
My concern with both methods is preventing the pommel from twisting during use. I also wanted to leave some level of adjustment to allow for shrinkage in the washers.
So does anyone have any brilliant solutions that don't leave a ugly bolt head, or threaded hole exposed at the back?
 
I was reading in the book I have on puukkos and it detailed using a rivet washer and peening the end over. I guess if it ever shrunk on ya you could just peen it some more. Not sure if something along those lines helps.
 
Trouble is it's a stainless blade and I don't think I get 440c soft enough to peen, but peening is probably the best and simplest solution.
I suppose ultimately my question is would the pressure of being tightened and loctite on the thread be enough to stop it twisting or moving around under normal conditions.
 
Not sure, some of the more experienced guys will probably be around later with a bunch of good tips. Probably alot of answers from the guys who make take downs. Or possibly look at some tutorials for take downs as that may have some ideas for ya.
 
Rob, the way i do it is with a piece of all thread welded to the tang.
Then drill a through hole on the buttcap and thread it.
Screw on the buttcap and then peen the thread.
If you peen it right the buttcap wont unscrew.
Buff the end of the thread and it just looks like a regular peened tang.
 
Since this came back up, I will point out the real pro way to deal with the assembly.
This assembly technique is used by makers like Bruce Bump and others. These guys also make a custom spanner wrench to accompany the knife.

Thread the tang, or weld on a threaded extension - Lets use 1/4-20 as an example.
Put two alignment pins in the handle side of the pommel. These fit holes drilled in the handle material.
Drill the pommel with a 1/4" body hole that allows the threaded tang to pass through.
Counterbore the hole 3/8" deep from the pommel end to fit a 1/4-20 threaded collar ( AKA - standoff).
Slot the collar so the slot goes 1/8" below the pommel surface.
Place the pommel on the tang and insert the alignment pins in the handle. Screw on the collar and run down snug.
Cut off the excess tang and collar, and grind smooth with the pommel. This will allow a spanner wrench to install and remove the collar bolt.
The pommel can be ground to shape with the handle, and still be disassembled or tightened with no loss of alignment. If it becomes necessary to snug up the handle later on, you just tighten the collar bolt.
 
Thanks hengelo_77 I read your thread yesterday and it did help some. Bladsmth thanks mate this is kind of what I had in mind explained very clearly I have seen this system used on some older solingen knives and it is probably the neatest and most adjustable. I've just got sweet talk someone with a lathe to make me the standoff now.
As always great advice I'd be lost without this forum.
 
Hello Rob, I use system similar to those listed above, all tread rod welded to the knife tang and either a hole drilled and tapped in the pommel or a nut silver brased to it. After everything is fitted then I use JB Weld in the treads to keep things tight. This pretty much prevents me from removing or tightening the pommel later however. I wonder if a red or blue loctite might work well while allowing the pommel to be adjusted later.
 
another way i've dealt with this issue is to avoid the threaded rod altogether. I took it from the Ka-bar set up in drilling a 1/8 inch hole straight through the pommel (left to right) that lines up with a hole running through the tang that you simply press a rod through the pommel and tang giving a solid mechanical fastener that cannot twist or loosen. you make the handle oversize so you have to press fit the pommel to line up the hole and this ensures that it will be super tight once you let the pressure off and the rod takes up the slack. to finish it off, i hammer peen the rod to make it swell inside the pommel and also fill any gap remaining, then file and sand it flat. This method leaves the pin almost invisible once you are finished and its on there for life.
 
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