Porblem heat treating O-1

LRB said:
I take my edge to the finished thickness before sharpening. Never a problem, but I use PBC.
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I do the same and likewise use PBC. Don't know what I ever did without it! Oh yeah wait a minute I do remember now that I think back.... It SUCKED!!!
Won't ever be without it again that's for sure.
Matt
 
I am leaning towards Jim Moyers explanation. I ordered 1095 a while ago, and when I got it it looked a little different from the other 1095 I had before. I tried heat treating some of it, and it wouldnt harden at all. I called the company, and they made it right, but it could have been a problem.
 
First want to thank y'all for the responses. Helps to have objective input.
It didn't sit right in my thinking that too high a heat would not harden O-1 at all. poor grain , yes but it should harden, but the decarb made sense. So this morning I took one of the blades and clamped it on a knife board and started filing away. BINGO a few thousands in that steel is hard. Now when I tried the second heat treating attempt I had not run the blades through the tempering steps. I got P.O.ed and left them on the bench till I could think things through and get some ideas. So with the knife blade clamped to the knife board I picked up a 14" mill bastard and commenced to remove the offending layer of decarbed steel. Of coarse the blade moved a Little so I gave the clamp a turn and I heard this sicking crack. I stopped and said a Little prayer " please God let that noise just be my fat a$$ breaking another chair" No such luck. undid the clamp and found I had broke my knife. Well I guess that answers the hardening question.
Looking at the broken end under 20X magnification the steel appears to have a very fine grain structure. So I'll run these through a tempering sequence and chalk it all up to a bad day. I'll even be able to save the blade I broke. It is a blade for a friction folder blade that the tang was filed in to a bottle opener patterned after one on a SAK. so I only lost the bottle opener.
 
ahhhh sorry to hear that...don't think i've broken any 01 blades, but i have broken a few a2 blades in the 1/16" thickness before they were tempered! lol...tried to straighten the blade and SNAP! Damn good thing it only took me about 5 minutes to grind!

Never do something while frustrated! Take a break...have a smoke, think a little and it will all come to you when you're nice and chill. Being P.O.ed never works when it comes to knife grinding/making. :D
 
PBC is an anti-scaling powder that Brownell's sells. Terry Primos made a nice tutorial on using PBC.

I just checked Brownell's site, it looks like they are now calling PBC "Brownell's Non-Scaling Compund." They also sell a liquid non-scaling compound called ATP-641.

I have tried the PBC powder. I thought it worked "OK", but was too messy. I bought some of the liquid, but I haven't tried that yet.

There's another anti-scale product I've seen mentioned on the forums called "Turco" (or something similar). I have never found a source for it, so I have not been able to try it yet.
 
K&G used to sell Turco. I just checked the catalog and don't see it anymore. Perhaps if you call them......
 
I looked hard on the net for Turco and never found a place to buy it.

Chris,

When you try the ATP-641, would you post info back here, please. This is the manufacturer: http://www.advancedtechnicalprod.com/scale_coating.htm
I haven't contacted them for cost and quantity. If you have a business license, Brownell's will sell to you as a manufacturer, or reseller, etc. There are minimal hoops to jump through to set this up.

Mike
 
Mike Krall said:
Chris, When you try the ATP-641, would you post info back here, please. -Mike
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Mike, will do. I purchased my ATP from Brownell's.

If I recall correctly, there was a threat comparing ATP and PBC over on the knifenetwork forum not long ago.
 
As an update all 5 blades are coming along slowly but lust fine. I have to remake a slotted guard because of the lose of a few thousandths of steel, and the cap lifter that I brook still bugs me:( I had more hand filling work in the cap lifter end of a friction folder than the rest of the knife altogether.
 
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