Portable Bandsaw (and build table) or HF 4x6 with stand?

Hawk45

Hawk45

Joined
Jan 28, 2005
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Want to add a bandsaw to my stable so I can save some time from having to use belts to rough profile.

I was going to get the HF 4x6 with the stand but see lots of guys using the Dewalt Deep Cut with Swag Offroad table or a home built setup.

Which would be the better way to go?
 
I did the same research on the same question and ended up going with the portaband. It seems like they are basically the same... similar cost, similar function, similar performance. Main difference is in the amount of space required. I had less space, and the portaband has a smaller footprint.
 
A SWAG Offroad table combined with a DeWalt/Milwaukee portaband with good blades is something I wish I'd setup a lot sooner then I did. One plus is that you can EASILY get it out of way if you need to (if floorspace is an issue).

Worth every penny................

Corey "synthesist" Gimbel
 
I had to make this same decision myself not long ago. My shop is quite small, so it was kind of a no brainer for me. I went with a Milwaukee deep cut and Swag Offroad table combo hooked to a foot switch. I use it for all of my rough profiling as well as cutting my blocks into scales. It's an invaluable tool for my needs. I'm not sure which way I'd have gone if my shop were bigger, but I DEFINITELY don't regret going the route I did. An added perk is the portability aspect of the bandsaw. I did some modification to the exhaust system on my Toyota......take a guess what tool I utilized.
 
I tried the portaband and did not have the patience to make it cut, also the short band wears out faster (fewer teeth) than the larger. I mounted the full size upright on a stand.
bandsaw 006.jpg
 
Space is the deciding factor, If you have the room get the 4X6.

Stan
 
I can make either fit. Do either one throw up a bunch of debris? Just wondering if I could put in the basement work room or if would be better to use out in the garage/outside. I don't have a collection system inside so outside of my drill press, I do all my dirty work outside. Be nice if I could cut blanks inside and stay warm
 
I bought the HF portaband and made a little stand with 2x4s. works great with quality blades with the most TPI I can find.
 
The HF portable is extremely loud, the horizontal/vertical 4x6 is much quieter. The difference I've found, and I have both, is that I can push with a lot more force on the portaband. Some things like titanium require more pressure to cut.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

Talking cut time and blades on these, can you give me some feedback?

How long does it take to get a blade profile cutout with say 1/4" stock using the saw you have?

Also, on blades.. looks like everyone recommends the Lenox blades. The portables come in a 3 pack for about $20, but the 62.5" blades for the HF 4x6 run about $25 each. Any feedback which is the better way to go? Even if I burn through 3 blades on the portable it's still cheaper than one on the big HF 4x6.
 
With a newish blade, maybe five minutes for a hunter sized blade, probably less really. I have had a dewalt portaband for four years it is works great. I am thinking of getting the harbor freight in addition for the set it and forget it aspect on cuts of large stock.


Hawk45 said:
Thanks for all the replies.

Talking cut time and blades on these, can you give me some feedback?

How long does it take to get a blade profile cutout with say 1/4" stock using the saw you have?

Also, on blades.. looks like everyone recommends the Lenox blades. The portables come in a 3 pack for about $20, but the 62.5" blades for the HF 4x6 run about $25 each. Any feedback which is the better way to go? Even if I burn through 3 blades on the portable it's still cheaper than one on the big HF 4x6.
Click to expand...
 
Cut time will vary depending on the knife and how intricate the curves and details are. Keep in mind that you will have to make straighter cuts for the most part. Band saws are not scroll saws. You can follow gentle curves like the spine relatively easy, but tighter radii should be taken in sections so that you don't bind the blade in the blank. You will prematurely wear out the blade, or the saw, or both if you attempt to do so. For safety purposes, I highly recommend a foot switch. It really comes in handy if the blade binds a bit or breaks. You'll want to be able to quickly kill the power if a blade snaps.....trust me.

For me to cut out a knife that is, let's say, 9" in overall length takes no more than 10 minutes. I also stop after each cut and brush off the table. The stock I work with is 1/8" or 5/32". Obviously, the thicker the blank, the longer it will take. So realistically, you're looking at somewhere between 5-10 minutes per blank. I've only used the Milwaukee blades so far. They can be picked up at any Lowe's or Home Depot. Just make sure you match up the TPI to your stock thickness. I use 18 TPI. How long they last is dependent on you (cutting speed, feed pressure, etc). I can generally get at least 10 blanks cut before I feel like I "need" to change the blade out. Trust me, you'll know when it's time.

*Edit* I wanted to add that you will still need to clean up the profile at the grinder. You can get pretty close to it with the band saw, but leave yourself a little material for cleanup and/or minor changes. This is probably obvious to most, but I'm not sure what your experience level is with one.
 
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Hawk45 said:
Also, on blades.. looks like everyone recommends the Lenox blades. The portables come in a 3 pack for about $20, but the 62.5" blades for the HF 4x6 run about $25 each. Any feedback which is the better way to go? Even if I burn through 3 blades on the portable it's still cheaper than one on the big HF 4x6.
Click to expand...

Who says we recommend Lenox blades? There was a thread a couple months ago where several agreed that the $9.99 64½" blade from HF was the most efficient way to go. It lasts almost as long and at 1/3 the price is a better deal.

Blade Break-In Procedure

All band saw blades, regardless of the manufacturer, need to be "broken in". When new, the teeth are just too sharp. Cutting at full rate will cause fracturing of the feather edges which will lead to premature blade failure. Breaking in a saw blade wears off this ultra sharp edge and allows the blade to retain its cutting ability longer. Each manufacturer has their own preferred method for blade break-in. However, they all share the same principles:

Maintain recommended band speed
Reduce feed pressure to ½ normal rate
Run at these settings for the first 50 square inches of material cut (150 square inches on mild and low carbon steel)

Note: If you are unsure what the normal feed pressure is, start light. Increase feed pressure until good, curly chips start to form. After cutting the recommended area, slowly increase the feed pressure until you reach your desired cutting rate.
Special consideration must be given while breaking in a saw blade on nickel-based alloys. (Stainless Steel, Inconel, Hastelloy, D2 Tool Steel, etc.) These alloys tend to work harden very quickly; therefore, sufficient feed pressure must be applied during the break-in period to remove some material. As a general rule, alloys sawed at lower speeds need more pressure during break-in period.
Click to expand...
 
Adam Buttry said:
*Edit* I wanted to add that you will still need to clean up the profile at the grinder. You can get pretty close to it with the band saw, but leave yourself a little material for cleanup and/or minor changes. This is probably obvious to most, but I'm not sure what your experience level is with one.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I expected to do cleanup with my grinder. Right now I'm getting two profiles out of a 2x42 belt and takes about 15 mins or more for each one. Being it's getting cold outside, I'd like to spend as little time outside grinding profiles as possible. Being able to get them 90% roughed out before heading to the grinder would be a big leap forward. Plus I'll be nice for cutting G10/micarta from sheets and maybe even be able to try out some titanium. Cutting pins would be much nicer with the saw then using my grinder with a cutoff blade too. All kinds of pluses.
 
Jason Fry said:
I did the same research on the same question and ended up going with the portaband. It seems like they are basically the same... similar cost, similar function, similar performance. Main difference is in the amount of space required. I had less space, and the portaband has a smaller footprint.
Click to expand...

Dewalt has a set up to make it a table portaband too
 
I got the 4x6 HF a little while ago. Watched a good video on utube about adjusting everything. Once I got it dialed in it works really well.

I would build a stand yourself for it if you got one. The one provided is really not great. It works but not great. I also made a little shelf for doing the profiling.
 
I bought the portable and made a stand for it. I was hoping to use it to cut my blade blanks but that aint happening. If I had to do it all over again I would buy the 4 x6 from harbor freight and never look back.
 
night man said:
I bought the portable and made a stand for it. I was hoping to use it to cut my blade blanks but that aint happening. If I had to do it all over again I would buy the 4 x6 from harbor freight and never look back.
Click to expand...

Could you explain a bit more why the portable/stand didn't work for you for cutting blanks? Thanks, Hawk
 
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