Post Heat Treat O1 Profiling

[duurza]

After heat treating my O1 sword, there is minor sabre-ing of the distal 1/3 of the blade and a slight warp. I have determined that if I were to grind out the material on the sabre-ed side and re center the center ridge, I can technically grind out the warp. I started removing material by scraping the sword against a stone and inch by inch, I will eventually end up with a straight sword again.

After this, I need to re bevel the one side down from 5/32 to around 1/64 (maximum 1/2 inch from the center ridge to edge). I am planning on using sharpening stones but most are at least 1000x Grit. From what I've read on profiling and sharpening, one uses a grinder with 80x, 150x and 220x grit belts. Is 1000x or even 800x too fine for beveling post heat treat?

What would be recommended? I don't have machines and since I came so far without using machines, I prefer to stick to manual labor. I live in Toronto and work really close to a Lee Valley Tools so if I can find something there, that would be excellent. Currently, I am looking at these items:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=33011&cat=1,43072,43071
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=51817&cat=1,43072,43071,51817
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=44628&cat=1,43072
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67088&cat=1,43072,67175
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67089&cat=1,43072,67175

Suggestions or recommendations (aside from buying a machine or re doing the heat treat) would be welcomed!

 

[kuraki]

I think you would be better served with a diamond lap to do your reprofiling. Sandpaper for finishing and stones for sharpening.

These are relatively inexpensive. I have a set of 4 that I glued to hand blocks. They remove material very quickly compared to a stone in the coarse grits. Almost like a 2nd cut file. http://eze-lap.com/product/creditcard.htm

Otherwise, if your sword is drawn back into the 50's for RC, I might actually try draw filing for reprofiling.

 

[duurza]

I think you would be better served with a diamond lap to do your reprofiling. Sandpaper for finishing and stones for sharpening.

These are relatively inexpensive. I have a set of 4 that I glued to hand blocks. They remove material very quickly compared to a stone in the coarse grits. Almost like a 2nd cut file. http://eze-lap.com/product/creditcard.htm

Otherwise, if your sword is drawn back into the 50's for RC, I might actually try draw filing for reprofiling.

Thanks. I will need to look into those. I live in Canada so it's a bit pricey at the moment and shipping is another issue. Does it matter what material the stone is? For example, this one is a diamond one with 150x grit. Compared with a non diamond material at the same grit, what would be the difference?