post-stabilization cleanup

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brettn

Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
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I wanted to see what you guys do to clean up your blocks after getting them stabilized? I sent off my first batch last year and sanded off all the excessive resin but it didn't seem to be very efficient. I was using cheap belts and they got clogged up and wore out relatively fast. I'm not looking to bring them to a finished polish, just good enough to be able to see the grain so customers can pick the pieces they want. Are there any better ways to do this other than sanding on my grinder w/platen? I was wondering if a planer would be a quicker way of cleaning these up. Thanks for any advice!
 
A jointer will work, but is unsafe for blocks if a safety pusher-pad is not used. A small wooden hand float will work well as one. NEVER move the blocks across the jointer by hand.
A planer will not work, as it will likely ruin many blocks ( due to the short length).
Some folks use the table saw and slice off the skin on all sides. This also requires care and push blocks for safety.
The band saw will do this nicely if you have one that will take a wide re-saw blade. Just run the blade up against a sacrificial wooden fence, and slide the blocks along it.
Some folks just cut the blocks in half ( to see the pattern), and remove the gunk when doing the final shaping.

To make belts last longer, you should keep several belt dressing sticks on the bench. They are soft rubber sticks that you press to the belt and they clean off a lot of the impacted material. A coarse steel wire brush and slow belt speed can help for really gunked up belts. Old wire wheels for grinders can be used for this. I watch yard sales for heavy wire wheels that people want $1 for. The ones for angle grinders are commonly found in the junk boxes at pawn shops, too.

If you are running the grinder too fast, that may be part of the trouble,too.
 
Sanding is all I do, and I do it on every block. I sand it to the point where all the littl pockets of resin are gone and all you see is the stabilized wood surface. Yes, you will go through several belts on a large batch of wood. I average about 4 - 5 blocks per belt, maybe more if there is les residue to sand off.
 
I sanded them on a 6x48 sander and could sand up to 50 with one belt. Buy a belt cleaner stick (looks like a big eraser) and a good belt. Also don't let the block get to hot.

If I was stuck in a room with a jointer a planer and a box of blocks I had to clean I would use the planer but you would have to build a sled to hold the block. But as long as a sander was within reach thats what I would use hands down.
 
I always have the worst time with the dyed blocks. Whatever K&G uses to dye, especially the dark dyes, really plugs up the belts. With them I tend to grab a 36 grit belt or disc and do a quick buzz first to get paste a lot of the junk and then on to finer belts/disc.

Clear stabilized I have no troubles with. An 80 grit, 9" disc with do a lot of clear blocks before I need to change it with the aide of the cleaner.
 
I like a 6x48 too. But I like the 9" disc for this. Easier for me to flatten a side and get the resin off. Those PSA discs are cheaper than a belt too.
 
I mostly now just stick them in the mill and fly cut them. I have my mill in an enclosure so I hook up my dust collector close and fly cut them.

Dennis
 
Dennis Paish said:
I mostly now just stick them in the mill and fly cut them. I have my mill in an enclosure so I hook up my dust collector close and fly cut them.

Dennis
Click to expand...

That seems like a great idea! I don't like trying to sand them down flat very much and hate the dust. Do they come out fairly flat?




Stacy Apelt said:
...you should keep several belt dressing sticks on the bench...
Click to expand...

Stacy, I only have one. Why several?
 
They wear out. I also can't always lay my hand on it if there is only one on the bench :)
 
Greetings,
They come out dead flat. Try it and you will see. I always mill my stabilized wood on all 4 sides just to start with a good flat reference. I also slot my handles with an extra long 0.125" mill for the handle. It works well for me....

Dennis
 
I use old tennis/running shoes for belt cleaners. Tear the sole off and any insole. Use it, but not the very bottom tread area. There's always shoes being tossed out and they work just as well.
 
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