Post your Spyder Pics

BOOMER52 said:
Here's a couple more of the ghost jade... one with oblique lighting to show off the Anso texture a little better... and one to show off the translucency a little more.
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Beautiful end product. Looks great when the light is coming through the milled liners. I'd buy a Delica like that if someone made it.
 
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[/URL][/IMG] Here are some pics of some knives I just picke up, the picture of the Temperance Leaf will take you to a library of the rest. Temperance Leaf no markings new in box C69GP 6/11/02 C36GSE Military 1998 new in box C82SBK D'Allara 10/30/03 new in box C14SBL Rescue 93mm Blue 7/10/02 and a Vesuvius 913 ATS-34 Blue inlays no box looks new.
 
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Here is my latest Mule project. Over a year ago, I bought a chunk of rosewood burl from a dealer. I wanted to try processing and cutting some slabs from a raw burl myself. Hoo, boy - I really didn't know what I was getting in for! :) Even though the burl was dried when I got it (don't know the actual moisture content), I decided not to have it stabilized since rosewood is so oily to begin with. So I let it acclimatize in my shop for a while then cut it into oversize scale slabs. Then things started to get frustrating... the slabs twisted, warped, and developed hairline cracks. I kept them clamped down tightly for almost a year to let them get a bit less "lively". Then a few weeks back, I took them out, trimmed them up and put a blue G10 liner on the back side. I used a ton of West System epoxy so that the slabs would be partially encased in the adhesive for a while - and then clamped them back down for a few weeks. When I took them out and trimmed them up - they appeared pretty solid. So far - so good.

The drilling, shaping, and contouring were the second part of the adventure. This rosewood burl had to be the single most unforgiving wood that I've ever used in my life. Period. It split and chipped, eyes popped out, pithy parts (mostly in the lighter portions) tore out, the oily dark wood clogged my files and stained the lighter wood. Argh. What a battle. I finally wrestled it into shape and I had to figure out how to finish the material.

This started the third part of the adventure. The burl was full of voids (as well as little chips of rock and dirt) and pith and even though it was sanded out to 800 grit, it was still really gnarly. I'm not a big fan of CA glue as a finish, but I decided that this was the time to break it out. So I coated the scales with a couple of thin coats of the thinnest CA I had, sanding down to 1000 grit between each coat. After this was finished, I topped it off with about 10 thin coats of TruOil with a finish sanding out to 2500 grit. Then I attacked it with the buffer and some white rouge. Still not perfect... but the beauty of the swirling grain emerged like I hoped.

TedP

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phillipsted said:
Here is my latest Mule project. Over a year ago, I bought a chunk of rosewood burl from a dealer. I wanted to try processing and cutting some slabs from a raw burl myself. Hoo, boy - I really didn't know what I was getting in for! :) Even though the burl was dried when I got it (don't know the actual moisture content), I decided not to have it stabilized since rosewood is so oily to begin with. So I let it acclimatize in my shop for a while then cut it into oversize scale slabs. Then things started to get frustrating... the slabs twisted, warped, and developed hairline cracks. I kept them clamped down tightly for almost a year to let them get a bit less "lively". Then a few weeks back, I took them out, trimmed them up and put a blue G10 liner on the back side. I used a ton of West System epoxy so that the slabs would be partially encased in the adhesive for a while - and then clamped them back down for a few weeks. When I took them out and trimmed them up - they appeared pretty solid. So far - so good.

The drilling, shaping, and contouring were the second part of the adventure. This rosewood burl had to be the single most unforgiving wood that I've ever used in my life. Period. It split and chipped, eyes popped out, pithy parts (mostly in the lighter portions) tore out, the oily dark wood clogged my files and stained the lighter wood. Argh. What a battle. I finally wrestled it into shape and I had to figure out how to finish the material.

This started the third part of the adventure. The burl was full of voids (as well as little chips of rock and dirt) and pith and even though it was sanded out to 800 grit, it was still really gnarly. I'm not a big fan of CA glue as a finish, but I decided that this was the time to break it out. So I coated the scales with a couple of thin coats of the thinnest CA I had, sanding down to 1000 grit between each coat. After this was finished, I topped it off with about 10 thin coats of TruOil with a finish sanding out to 2500 grit. Then I attacked it with the buffer and some white rouge. Still not perfect... but the beauty of the swirling grain emerged like I hoped.

TedP
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Beautiful! :thumbup:
 
phillipsted said:
Here is my latest Mule project. Over a year ago, I bought a chunk of rosewood burl from a dealer. I wanted to try processing and cutting some slabs from a raw burl myself. Hoo, boy - I really didn't know what I was getting in for! :) Even though the burl was dried when I got it (don't know the actual moisture content), I decided not to have it stabilized since rosewood is so oily to begin with. So I let it acclimatize in my shop for a while then cut it into oversize scale slabs. Then things started to get frustrating... the slabs twisted, warped, and developed hairline cracks. I kept them clamped down tightly for almost a year to let them get a bit less "lively". Then a few weeks back, I took them out, trimmed them up and put a blue G10 liner on the back side. I used a ton of West System epoxy so that the slabs would be partially encased in the adhesive for a while - and then clamped them back down for a few weeks. When I took them out and trimmed them up - they appeared pretty solid. So far - so good.

The drilling, shaping, and contouring were the second part of the adventure. This rosewood burl had to be the single most unforgiving wood that I've ever used in my life. Period. It split and chipped, eyes popped out, pithy parts (mostly in the lighter portions) tore out, the oily dark wood clogged my files and stained the lighter wood. Argh. What a battle. I finally wrestled it into shape and I had to figure out how to finish the material.

This started the third part of the adventure. The burl was full of voids (as well as little chips of rock and dirt) and pith and even though it was sanded out to 800 grit, it was still really gnarly. I'm not a big fan of CA glue as a finish, but I decided that this was the time to break it out. So I coated the scales with a couple of thin coats of the thinnest CA I had, sanding down to 1000 grit between each coat. After this was finished, I topped it off with about 10 thin coats of TruOil with a finish sanding out to 2500 grit. Then I attacked it with the buffer and some white rouge. Still not perfect... but the beauty of the swirling grain emerged like I hoped.

TedP
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Mother Nature certainly can produce a grand amount of beauty... BUT is sounds like you had to take 2 out of 3 matches wrestling the beauty out of these...! They look OUTSTANDAMDING!!!
 
TedP, Beautiful work my friend. You really did a fine job on that wood, as it looks like it was a real booger to try to work with. No wonder the "grain direction" was so interesting, but it certainly turned out well. There's a local gunsmith who uses what he calls a "progressive reduction system" when working with highly figured walnut. He does some shaping, then lets it sit for a couple of months to move around, then does a bit more. Although it takes longer for the finished product, the wood tends to stabilize over time and finally settles down to its finished shape. Looks like it was a labor of love, nicely done.
 
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