Post your strippers!

Here is another StRipper... although it's still clothed... :D :thumbup:


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Besides his willingness to strip almost anything, what I admire about this man is his readiness, at any moment, to open a bottle of beer. :thumbup:

Also, Milwaukee tools rock. :thumbup: :thumbup:

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I'm not the owner of that bottle Opener, but I prefer Guiness which is better out of a Draught flow can, no opener required, but a pint glass is required.

Yes, Milwaukee's are awesome. In a professional setting, most power tools are disposable items. Milwaukee's keep going and going, if you have them long enough to burn out the brushes they have done a hell of a lot of work.

The next on my wish list is the Orbital Super Sawzall.

I haven't made tube rivets yet, but I'm pretty sure I can make something work. I have access to a large arbor press, I just need to make some appropriate dies to flare the tube.

The dimples are pretty heavy on the flats. The swedge is the area that needs the least ammount of sanding. The primary grind is pretty good but I found one pit near the tip that I might not be able to sand out. The flats are pretty rough. I think I'm going to try a hand held electric sander on the flats.

Hopefully I'll have pictures of the blade with all of the dimples removed tonight.
 
I'm having withdrawals. I sent my stripped ST Ripper into the shop for new Nukarta slabs and a spit shine. I get jittery seeing all this nude INFI! Wash, that's pretty gutsy on the slab removal. Have you done any retubing before? I'd really like to try this someday. I usually just strip up to the slabs.

I haven't had a decent question in a while: What is the difference between nucarta and micarta....is it the same thing....just from a different company?!?! Micarta originally came from westinghouse way back in the day...for hi-voltage insulation if my memory serves me right.
 
Here are new pics, almost complete.

The blade is starting to look good but still needs the last few dimples removed.

There are still a lot of Infi dimples under the scales and at the butt.

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Behind the knife is the belt sander I used for the flats.

It had an 80 grit belt. After the last of the dimples are gone, I'll go over it with a 120 grit, then I'll hand sand it with 240. After that I might cal it good or go for a full mirror polish.
 
I didn't do it myself, but here is a stripped Swamp Rat M6. It was rehandled as well...
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Wow! The M6 looks great. In general, I found the SR101 a lot easier to polish out than INFI. Here is a Ratweiler I did a couple of years ago.

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PM, that is one sweet looking RatWeiler! I may consider doing that to my MudWeiler once it starts taking a beating...
 
I've gotta smooth out the marks still, but here's what I've been doing as my new part time job. I was sanding away on it regularly till Tyrkon mentioned using a scotch brite. I just worked on it for 10 minutes and got it right down past the dimples. I don't have any fine paper right now, but you can see where this is heading. Now I know why the custom shop only did 10 satins. These are an incredible pain in the a$$.

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I've gotta smooth out the marks still, but here's what I've been doing as my new part time job. I was sanding away on it regularly till Tyrkon mentioned using a scotch brite. I just worked on it for 10 minutes and got it right down past the dimples. I don't have any fine paper right now, but you can see where this is heading. Now I know why the custom shop only did 10 satins. These are an incredible pain in the a$$.

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That is lookin real sweet. I can wait to see the finished product. It feels great when you finish only to go beat the living hell out of it again. ;)
 
I haven't had a decent question in a while: What is the difference between nucarta and micarta....is it the same thing....just from a different company?!?! Micarta originally came from westinghouse way back in the day...for hi-voltage insulation if my memory serves me right.

ive wondered the same thing. a quick search produces only busse results for nukarta. so im thinking it is perhaps proprietary as well.
 
ive wondered the same thing. a quick search produces only busse results for nukarta. so im thinking it is perhaps proprietary as well.

I actually don't even know the visual difference between them....so far I can only see the difference between G-10, Linen Micarta and Canvas Micarta...is Nukarta the stuff that's greenish/tanish? :p
 
I actually don't even know the visual difference between them....so far I can only see the difference between G-10, Linen Micarta and Canvas Micarta...is Nukarta the stuff that's greenish/tanish? :p

the snakeskin was originally listed as snakeskin nukarta. beyond that, i have no idea.:confused:
 
the snakeskin was originally listed as snakeskin nukarta. beyond that, i have no idea.:confused:

I do believe it was Jerry's play on words for Busse nuclear toughness and Micarta. I don't think he had any special runs of phenolics, but I could be wrong. Hopefully he will chime in here.
 
Here's my 2...

A FFBM w/ green linen standards and a Skeleton Warden. :D

Both are still in progress, really just started on both. I've said it before and I'll say it again... the OD green coating is the toughest! Took 2 applications of stripper to remove the coating. The 1st one soaked for 20 mins and it didn't even soften the coating. :eek: The next one I let soak for 30 mins and it still took a ton of hard scraping.

OK... here are the pics... hope you enjoy!

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