It does make sense. Thats one of the reasons I like the rough stones from edgepro, they are cheaper and take off metal faster, but as a downside wear down much faster than a diamond plate. I'll go through a stone in about 2.5-3 heavy reprofiles on thicker busse's because of how thick they are at the edge, especially at the tip. If you have to take off a ton of metal and you've got really steady hands, you might consider taking a file to the shoulder initially just to knock some of that metal off and save your more expensive stones. I've used belt sanders really lightly on things like the basic 11 just because I knew I'd have to take so much off with the stones that I'd end up wearing one down when I didn't want to.
How strong you want the tip depends on what you want to do with it. If you intend on running the tip into the ground a lot where there are going to be rocks, you can leave the thickness above the 24 degree bevel a little thicker, and thin it out along the main edge. I have seen examples of competition finish knives like the Jack hammer that have very thin tips, consistently at .035" from ricasso to tip with fairly thin convex taper. So Jerry has put out knives he felt comfortable with that would see abuse with that thin of a tip, just not normally on cg production knives. The way I measure it is by getting a micrometer or caliper and measuring at the line created between the bevels, which is right at the top of your 24 degree bevel. If you are measuring to .020 the height of your main edge should be pretty small, if it's at .035" it'll be a little taller. Your relief bevel will tend to get kind of ridiculous at the tip, since jerry changes the grind to be much, much thicker there. It's up to you how important it is to have a tip that's similar to your main edge. For me, I want my relief grind to take off the shoulder at the same angle, so all I have to worry about is that last small 24 degree bevel. It makes for much, much easier sharpening later on since your taking off less metal each time.
This is an example of what you can do with a micrometer or caliper set thats got enough clearance. I asked sr223 to help me make a spread sheet by measuring different models of boss jacks at 1/8" intervals, and here are the results of the overall geometries:
The 24 degree bevel I have on my proto and the one I had on the custom shop was actually at 1/32" tall, when measured there the proto is .038" thick at the main edge and belly, and oddly at .028" at the tip. The proto is a little weird in that it gets super thick at the belly, but has a nice taper along the spine that makes the tip fairly thin. Lots of metal off of the belly:
So to measure your edges thickness you'd take something like this (from longislandindicator.com):
and measure at the line between bevels:
though I don't think I'm half of whats being said here. 
