Powdered Metallurgy steels resists flex breakage. True or false?

As opposed to what? Carbon steel? Definitely not. But you also have to take into account the heat treat and even the blade grinds. For instance, S30V is known to be chippy and has a higher RC hardness. Then you have the softer Buck Hoodlum which has a stupid cut in the spine and they seem to snap left and right.
 
Without going into a lot of detail, that could be true during heavy use. Cutting abrasive material, something like skinning dirty animals, I can't see that being the case. Also, how well you can sharpen a given steel has more to do with how you perceive it to hold an edge relative to other steels that are possibly more difficult to sharpen (for you, given equipment, skill, etc.).
 
Depending on the hardness and heat treat I've read that S7 should have the same edge retention as A2

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/882461-Does-S7-hold-an-edge-well

Maybe. But how well the edge holds up is going to depend on the geometry too. You continue to throw out questions and conclusions that are ill-defined and/or over-generalized.

Which leads me to believe you are over-complicating whatever it is you are getting at. A good steel from a reputable maker is going to be fine for you.

And what are you getting it? Maybe if you tell us what you are looking for or what you want built we can get to the point quicker.

You looking to get some sort of bomb-proof chopper/basher/smasher?
 
Maybe. But how well the edge holds up is going to depend on the geometry too. You continue to throw out questions and conclusions that are ill-defined and/or over-generalized.

Which leads me to believe you are over-complicating whatever it is you are getting at. A good steel from a reputable maker is going to be fine for you.

And what are you getting it? Maybe if you tell us what you are looking for or what you want built we can get to the point quicker.

You looking to get some sort of bomb-proof chopper/basher/smasher?

I was wondering the same thing....

There is a good list of steels that would be fine for that.

A8, S7, A2, 3V and L6 would all work more than well enough.
 
A8, S7, A2, 3V and L6 would all work more than well enough.

Agreed. And I'll be so bold as to say that for the non-steel-student/snob (which I believe the OPs is, and there is nothing wrong with that), good old 5160 is gonna be perfectly fine for something you beat the bejeebus out of.
 
Agreed. And I'll be so bold as to say that for the non-steel-student/snob (which I believe the OPs is, and there is nothing wrong with that), good old 5160 is gonna be perfectly fine for something you beat the bejeebus out of.

Yeah, 5160 is some really good stuff, I have a bunch of knives in 5160 from HI....
 
One could just get an Ontario Ranger RD9 and beat the sucker like a rented mule. Good luck breaking that thing. And it's coated, which seems like another thing the OP is looking for.
 
And I bet you never worry about their resistance to "flex breakage." :)

Nope, not ever, even with the sword I have....

I would say good luck on breaking any of them, hand forged and differentially heat treated....
 
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One could just get an Ontario Ranger RD9 and beat the sucker like a rented mule. Good luck breaking that thing. And it's coated, which seems like another thing the OP is looking for.

I noticed that this dude is always on my thread posting smart ass comments. You're dick and a troll. I'll take the well worth infraction.

Most threads I start and out of curiosity as my knowledge in knives and steels are limited. And help others like me.
 
I noticed that this dude is always on my thread posting smart ass comments...... EDIT... I'll take the well worth infraction.

Most threads I start and out of curiosity as my knowledge in knives and steels are limited. And help others like me.


HE has been around for awhile, not a troll at all....

I would try and be nicer if you want to stick around for any length of time... Just a thought... ;)

The Super Mods don't play here on BF.....
 
Wow. You need to step back, review the thread, and seriously chill out. I saw nothing antagonistic or abrasive in what marcinek said. He's not just in your threads, but also in a lot of other people's threads because he has, as Jim said above, been around here for quite a bit and does provide a lot of info that helps others...like you.

That said, you still haven't explained what it is you're looking for in a knife. Ask vague questions, and you'll get all kinds of answers. In the end, just remember, you asked first.


I noticed that this dude is always on my thread posting smart ass comments. You're dick and a troll. I'll take the well worth infraction.

Most threads I start and out of curiosity as my knowledge in knives and steels are limited. And help others like me.
 
Most threads I start and out of curiosity as my knowledge in knives and steels are limited. And help others like me.

Which I what I suspected and mentioned earlier. Relax. Everybody here's knowledge was limited at one time. You are getting ahead of yourself with your questions and conclusions, and it's counter productive.

It is leading you into poorly-posed asking questions like this:

Will an S7 or CPM 3V with a 10 inch blade with a hardness of 58-60 rc flex the same as a 1055 with a hardness between the high 40's and low 50's. given all had the same length and edge geometry.

Us attempting to answer them helps nobody.

Read more and post less. And I mean that in the most constructive way (not in the "Shut up and go away." way.)
 
Agreed. And I'll be so bold as to say that for the non-steel-student/snob (which I believe the OPs is, and there is nothing wrong with that), good old 5160 is gonna be perfectly fine for something you beat the bejeebus out of.
Truth be told, about the only steel I'd trade out for in my 5160 knives is INFI. If the guy who made my 5160 blades called and offered to swap them out for S30V or CPM154 examples, I'd laugh out loud.
 
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