Powers Disc Table Base Mount or Face Mount

[kuraki]

My cut time is probably not applicable since I did it in stainless, but it was 4 minutes 17 seconds. I added some etched lines on the table to give myself a reference to perp which was another 20 seconds. I just renested it on carbon steel and that would run about 8 minutes with no cutoff or etching. I also changed the hole sizes so they were .201 and I just tapped them rather than adding nuts.

I missed a couple size on size slots, the edges of the motor mount. No problem, I banged it together in the Multi-Press

 

[Ken H>]

WOW!!! That is one nice set of plans - I just might have to do something like that myself. I REALLY like that tool/work rest - NICE design. GREAT WORK>

Ken H>

 

[Kevin Powers]

My cut time is probably not applicable since I did it in stainless, but it was 4 minutes 17 seconds. I added some etched lines on the table to give myself a reference to perp which was another 20 seconds. I just renested it on carbon steel and that would run about 8 minutes with no cutoff or etching. I also changed the hole sizes so they were .201 and I just tapped them rather than adding nuts.

I missed a couple size on size slots, the edges of the motor mount. No problem, I banged it together in the Multi-Press

It looks great, damn 4 minutes. I don't want to say how long it takes on a waterjet lol. Like 35 or so minutes. One thing though and it may not be an issue, but as pictured, your motor base is 180 out. Slotted holes go towards the table.
Today I cut out another one and also decided to do these to save some money on thumbscrews. Instead of $8 a piece.

Saved the drawing right from mcmaster carr, Put a hex on the center then save as dxf. Total drawing time, about 30 seconds

 

[kuraki]

Saved the drawing right from mcmaster carr, Put a hex on the center then save as dxf. Total drawing time, about 30 seconds

I do that all the time

No, I flipped the base mount that way. My motor base is odd and that put it so the table meets the disc right at the halfway of the in/out travel.

Lasers are fast. Especially in stainless and 6kW

These just snap into a SHCS: ugh I hate McMasters website impossible to link to. Search for Plastic Thumb Screw Heads and you get an assortment of different styles.

 

[Kevin Powers]

I do that all the time

No, I flipped the base mount that way. My motor base is odd and that put it so the table meets the disc right at the halfway of the in/out travel.

Lasers are fast. Especially in stainless and 6kW

These just snap into a SHCS: ugh I hate McMasters website impossible to link to. Search for Plastic Thumb Screw Heads and you get an assortment of different styles.

Ok good. To get the holes for the base mount I grabbed a few different motors from McMaster and put them in a solidworks assembly. Then mated the faces of the motor and made the drawing from that. That's why one of the slots kinda has a weird keyhole shape to it. The thumbscrew I posted a pic of is one of the ones right off McMaster website. The thumbscrews I used on this one are left over from another project. They were free. When I got home from work today I decided to powdercoat the base of the grinder I posted the other day. My heat treat oven isn't big enough so I had to throw it on the BBQ. Here's a shot of the completed table, and also a couple pics of the table articulation. I also got rid of one of the bolt holes for the table arm sliders. It wasn't necessary.

 

[kuraki]

No, if you look at plastic thumbscrew heads, they're inexpensive plastic thumbscrew heads that snap into socket head cap screws. Like this:

Bag of 50 is the price of one or two "thumb screws."

 

[Kevin Powers]

Yeah I've seen those. But I like metal, 2 little tig tacks these will be permanently awesome. Then I can powdercoat them.

 

[kuraki]

Nothing wrong with that. We make those quite often when building fixtures.

 

[Busto]

OK.....I need one of these!!!

 

[Jonathans]

Kevin,
I see that you have now opened up the table slider slots so that the assembly can slide off completely with just loosening the threaded knobs. That will make it a lot simpler to change paper out. Thanks for sharing these plans. Its very generous of you.

 

[Kevin Powers]

Kevin,
I see that you have now opened up the table slider slots so that the assembly can slide off completely with just loosening the threaded knobs. That will make it a lot simpler to change paper out. Thanks for sharing these plans. Its very generous of you.

Yes, Wjhen I was using plasma to cut these, They would bow in that area. Therefore I had them closed, now that I use waterjet, its a non issue.

 

[cdrew]

I would love to get one of these but I don't weld.

Sent from my LG-K450 using Tapatalk

 

[Brian Stucker]

What would be a descent price to get a 3rd party to cut these?

 

[Kevin Powers]

What would be a descent price to get a 3rd party to cut these?

Most waterjet shops around here have $100 minimum, I think the one laser shop is the same. Most shops have an online quote process. I'd find some local shops and get free quotes. At my price for HRPO 1/4" plate I'm looking at right around $27-35 worth of metal per unit. That's buying the sheets in bulk and shearing it down to fit my waterjet table. Using brand new metal is what I would recommend. Sure you can buy remnant cheaper but the work you'd put into it to make it as nice just isn't worth it in my opinion.

 

[Brian Stucker]

Most waterjet shops around here have $100 minimum, I think the one laser shop is the same. Most shops have an online quote process. I'd find some local shops and get free quotes. At my price for HRPO 1/4" plate I'm looking at right around $27-35 worth of metal per unit. That's buying the sheets in bulk and shearing it down to fit my waterjet table. Using brand new metal is what I would recommend. Sure you can buy remnant cheaper but the work you'd put into it to make it as nice just isn't worth it in my opinion.

Ok. Thanks.