practice san mai attempt, looking for advice

R

running bird

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Sep 29, 2015
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I'm going to work on some projects tomorrow and want to try making some simple san mai billets for my first attempt. To keep from messing too much of my good material I'm thinking of using some left over file pieces ( just going to refer to that as 1095 to keep it simple) for the core, then some RR spikes for the outer layer ( in my experience they are close to 1045 so I will just refer to them as such).

I'm thinking of either cutting the heads off the spikes to get them out of the way then just using the shafts. Should I do this or keep the heads on the spikes so I can later forge them into tangs if the billets turn out well enough to use?

I was also considering adding a layer of thin 15n20 stock between the 1095 and the 1045 to help with contrast after etching. Dose this seem like a good idea or will the 1095 and 1045 show enough of a difference on its own?

Also is there an advantage to adding a small amount of steel shavings ( left over from grinding) into my flux? I've tried it before and didn't notice much of a difference but thought I would ask here to see what others think.

Thanks for helping,

Kevin
 
Never used the materials you're mentioning. The 15n20 will provide a better contrast and will just look plain cool. If I remember correctly the nickel in the 15N20 will also prevent carbon diffusion between the 1095 and the 1045 to an extent. I'm not sure how you are going to weld these but I would make sure all of your pieces are equal in thickness (except the 15n20 of course) and make sure you grind them clean...it can be done without grinding but it's much easier to grind. I use plain borax as a flux so I can't answer your question about that. Make sure you forge equally or your core will not be centered and it will be useless. The easiest way to forge equally (in my opinion) is to count your hammer blows on each side. If you do 14 on one side do 14 on the other. Make sure you forge it HOT. Too cold and you will shear your welds...trust me I've done it [emoji6]


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15N20 has only 2% nickel. It will not prevent carbon migration.

The spikes should be forged into fat bars around 1/4" thick, then forge welded on the core. 1/8" 1095 with 1/8" pieces of 15N20on each side would be a good core. Grind all welded surfaces clean to 220 grit. Clamp the stack in a vise and tack weld the ends. Bring to full welding heat and forge weld several times before drawing out. Draw out at near welding heat, and reduce heat to 1900-2100F for any further work.
 
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