Prefered blade thickness?

Discussion in 'Blade Discussion Forum Archive' started by Michael Bennett, Jan 5, 2000.

  1. Michael Bennett

    Michael Bennett

    Mar 2, 1999
    This has likely been covered before, but with all of the new members, I'd like to revisit it:

    What thickness do you consider ideal for your knife? Also, what tasks do you do with a blade that thick/thin?

  2. Attila


    May 5, 1999
    I generally prefer 1/4" stock, but I also like 3/16ths, 5/32 & 1/8 on occasion. Mostly for defensive purposes, but a good 3/16 or 1/4" fixed blade is great for utility.

  3. Hart


    Nov 8, 1999
    I prefer 3/16". I am finding out that 1/4" is way too thick for every day slicing & normal use.

  4. Paracelsus


    Nov 6, 1999
    Thickness? For fixed blades in the 3 to 5 inch range, 1/8" to 3/16". I think 1/4" is too thick for this size knife, although its probably better for a really big (over six inches) camp chopper. For folders, 1/8" or less.
  5. Kirk D

    Kirk D

    Feb 17, 1999
    1/8" for most blades under 6". No more than 3/16", and even there..., in blades 5-8".

    9" and over, 1/4" is okay.
  6. Adamantium


    Oct 3, 1998
    Well, for the most part, my prefered thickness is 1/8th. The reason I don't like thicker blades is because virtaully all I cut is cardboard and food. And neither of those requires a thick blade with lots of weight. I guess I don't find myself stranded in the middle of nowhere having to chop and pry open all sorts of things nearly enough to really enjoy a 1/4th inch thick knife.

    And when I need to chop, My 22 inch machette or a good axe will do the job just fine.


    Self improvement is a hobby of mine :).

  7. Chang


    Oct 9, 1998
    1/8" because thats the thickest size possible to have that still fits in most sharpening kits. A lot of sharpening system clamps don't like to clamp onto knives over 1/8" thick. Also, when hand sharpening, the bulk makes it more difficult to sharpen. Just my two new Taiwan dollars.
  8. misque


    Jul 9, 1999
    For blades less than 6" in length, I like 5/32". A little thin perhaps, but I'm finding I don't need a sharpened prybar for a fixed blade, and thinner equals a keener, higher performance edge IMO.
    1/8" to .140" for 4" or less folders.
    On fixed blades in the 6"-9" range in the blade, I like 3/16".
    10" or greater in the blade, I like 1/4".

    Forgot to mention that I prefer all my knives to have a flat grind. Full height preferably or a flat saber grind as a second choice. Moran edge on a heavier duty type chop-chop knife. [​IMG]

    So, what IS the speed of dark?

    [This message has been edited by misque (edited 01-06-2000).]
  9. L6steel


    Sep 23, 1999
    3/16" for fixed blades, 1/8" for folders, and I just made a drop point neck knife from 1/16" ats-34, and it is one stout little knife. I think for a small skinner or general purpose knife, 1/16" is great.

    "Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!"

  10. Allen Blade

    Allen Blade Banned BANNED

    Oct 29, 1999

    Depends on the Shape,,,width,,,length, and end use. Also the Rat of rise grinding the bevels should also be a consideration.

    I mean your not going to grind a 1/4 thick by 4 inches long and a 3/4 inch wide blade with a Flat Grind,although some do!!! LMAO

    I grind blades to give them the best Performance level i can, and for me this is usally a Full bevel distal tapered Flat grind.

    Take Care,
  11. Steve B.

    Steve B.

    May 25, 1999
    I like them thin and flat ground.

    It seems that I`m not alone in my preference of the flat grind. It makes me wonder why the knife industry seems totaly enamoured with hollow grinds. It it because the flat grind isn`t "tactical" looking? In my day to day usage, I`m more likely to cut up a cardboard box, or slice an apple than I am to cut the top off a barrel.
  12. Ed Caffrey

    Ed Caffrey

    Jul 23, 1999
    Choosing a thickness of stock is a matter of degrees. Depending a great deal on the blade to be produced, and the maker's abilities. As for a finished blade, a single thickness that runs the majority of the blade length is not a good thing in my opinion. A blade that tapers from ricasso to point will withstand much more stress than a single thickness throughout. A rounded spine also lends a great deal to durability, in that it leaves no area for stress rises to form. Square edges and even thickness my look nice, but they also detract from a blades ability to endure stress.

    Ed Caffrey
    "The Montana Bladesmith"


Share This Page