Preferred “beat it up” handle material? (fixed blade)

G10 is probably my favourite for hard use, bordering on abuse, scale material. There are some good rubberized plastic handles for beating on things with. Micarta for almost anything else. I have knives with scales made of everything, except things like mammoth tusk, and they all have their place and uses. Breaking scales is either a case of user error or manufacturing process not up to hard work. If you're not batoning or otherwise treating a knife like an axe you'll probably never have to worry about scales breaking on any half-decently made knife.
 
That’s a concept I hadn’t heard before. It makes sense, but I don’t regularly beat on the handle. Mainly just the spine.

I absolutely despise the way proud tangs feel in hand. Apparently I’m not alone because back in the day if you found out your Busse had a proud tang you could send it in to be ground down flush with the handle for free. People bitched about it until they started grinding down every tang before it left the factory. That’s why the spines were bare all the way around on lots of coated OG Busse blades.

Here lately they’ve been marketing the sh!t as a “feature”. Lmao, ahhhh how the turn tables.
This is likely to make some dudes eye twitch, but when I'm pounding a knife through some knotted gnarly hardwood the blade can get stuck. Especially when there isn't much tip protruding on the other side, hitting the handle is the only way to move the knife. The slightly proud tang doesn't bother my hand at all and honestly if it's done right I can't even really feel it. If it's cold enough where bare steel will be harsh to my hand I have gloves on anyway.

I've also bent a tube/shifted a scale throwing a busse too. Yes, I know, don't throw knives Yada Yada don't baton Yada Yada lol

You doing alright down there in Tejas?
 
This is likely to make some dudes eye twitch, but when I'm pounding a knife through some knotted gnarly hardwood the blade can get stuck. Especially when there isn't much tip protruding on the other side, hitting the handle is the only way to move the knife. The slightly proud tang doesn't bother my hand at all and honestly if it's done right I can't even really feel it. If it's cold enough where bare steel will be harsh to my hand I have gloves on anyway.

I've also bent a tube/shifted a scale throwing a busse too. Yes, I know, don't throw knives Yada Yada don't baton Yada Yada lol

You doing alright down there in Tejas?
Doing ok, but it’s hottttttt, brother. Good godamighty.

Me and my brother threw my Basic 9 a few times and the thing actually stuck a few times.😆 Was no worse for wear from the times it didn’t stick, even the handle.
 
I don’t beat on my knives routinely. I consider that kind of treatment to be survival, last ditch, only hope.

I also won’t buy a knife with a fragile handle. I don’t use all my knives, but wouldn’t hesitate to use any of them. I also seem to prefer Macarta to use.
 
I like G10 for actually using, and full ti, sometimes, but the full-Titanium look is my favorite if I could only choose one, for looks/feel…
 
That’s a concept I hadn’t heard before. It makes sense, but I don’t regularly beat on the handle. Mainly just the spine.

I absolutely despise the way proud tangs feel in hand. Apparently I’m not alone because back in the day if you found out your Busse had a proud tang you could send it in to be ground down flush with the handle for free. People bitched about it until they started grinding down every tang before it left the factory. That’s why the spines were bare all the way around on lots of coated OG Busse blades.

Here lately they’ve been marketing the sh!t as a “feature”. Lmao, ahhhh how the turn tables.

Overhang is a woodworking technique. It's hard getting parts lined up. Making one obviously moved over, makes it look all "intentional" yeah. ..... We like it That way. Ugh

Make Mine Flush, Please!!!




I'm going to have to start advertising epoxy as a Selling Feature on my knives....😂
 
Last edited:
Terotuf.

- Durable and tough.
- Polyester-based, so easiest and least toxic to shape/grind.
- Grippy when wet.
- Under $15 per knife in material cost.
- Comes in variety of colors, just like polyester clothing.
- With the right polishing and lacquer/oil treatment, can look as good as linen/paper micarta. Or you can go for the tough look contouring at around 100 - 200 grit.

Metals conduct temperature and are slippery. G-10 is very functional, but looks homogenous and toxic to work with. Micarta is gorgeous, but also a bit toxic to work with. Natural materials are classy, but not durable unless treated properly.
 
As another member said, just the other day, DON'T JUDGE ME! 😂 ;)
My hard use days, for my knives anyway, are pretty much behind me. In my heyday I'd choose Micarta or Wood handled knives in the woods and around the campsite. I'd keep my bone, stag and Mammoth Ivory for lighter tasks, or in some cases just to admire.
JkEwAlV.jpg

One exception is this Tom Krein, CPM-D2 and stag bone. It's still on my belt when I'm on the trout stream. It also makes a nice woods walker.
8OQKNTs.jpg
 
Rubber and Nylon handles are imo the most comfortable and durable. Tradeoff it they are less "beautiful" than really pretty wood/micarta/g10. The Terava knives have amazing handles, as do most Moraknivs, Benchmade Puukko, and many other Kraton/Rubber/TPE Nylon type handles.

IMG-20230716-130805704.jpg
 
Doing ok, but it’s hottttttt, brother. Good godamighty.

Me and my brother threw my Basic 9 a few times and the thing actually stuck a few times.😆 Was no worse for wear from the times it didn’t stick, even the handle.
I was in lake charles Louisiana a few weeks ago and it was hot then a mofo. I feel for you, you know that nice warm weather that you can sit around and enjoy the day in? That ain't the kinda heat them parts get this time of year lol

I love me some res c handles. My 1311 is easily my favorite big knife.
 
That’s a concept I hadn’t heard before. It makes sense, but I don’t regularly beat on the handle. Mainly just the spine.

I absolutely despise the way proud tangs feel in hand. Apparently I’m not alone because back in the day if you found out your Busse had a proud tang you could send it in to be ground down flush with the handle for free. People bitched about it until they started grinding down every tang before it left the factory. That’s why the spines were bare all the way around on lots of coated OG Busse blades.

Here lately they’ve been marketing the sh!t as a “feature”. Lmao, ahhhh how the turn tables.

I’m also not a fan of proud tangs, myself.

As another member said, just the other day, DON'T JUDGE ME! 😂 ;)
My hard use days, for my knives anyway, are pretty much behind me. In my heyday I'd choose Micarta or Wood handled knives in the woods and around the campsite. I'd keep my bone, stag and Mammoth Ivory for lighter tasks, or in some cases just to admire.
JkEwAlV.jpg

One exception is this Tom Krein, CPM-D2 and stag bone. It's still on my belt when I'm on the trout stream. It also makes a nice woods walker.
8OQKNTs.jpg

How do you and Martin ever decide what to carry for the day??!! 😉😁
 
Last edited:
Micarta or g10.

On a similar note, slightly proud tangs that take the beating from a baton or fall are a plus for me. I know they are polarizing but I like a small extended pommel and proud tang.

Like this:
In theory it would work , in practice it would be difficult ........ even impossible :) Every shot with baton must be perfectly precise and even then scale would be hit . Wood is soft , so with every *perfect shot* baton will dig in tang and scale would be ......................
 
In theory it would work , in practice it would be difficult ........ even impossible :) Every shot with baton must be perfectly precise and even then scale would be hit . Wood is soft , so with every *perfect shot* baton will dig in tang and scale would be ......................
Considering I've been doing it for years, it's not a theory.
 
Back
Top