Preferred lubes?

Tetra gun lube. It's a fluoropolymer lube (what that means, I have no clue), thicker than oil, thinner than grease.

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It does a fairly good job of staying put on firearms and seems to do great on CRK's.

No reason not to buy the CRK grease though. :D
 
Socom Elite said:
...When a knife is opened and closed the washers don't even move. It's all blade and washers. Not washers and scales...
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You're correct the washers don't move and the blade slips over the washers.

However this is *not* the main source of friction. The lock bar ball bearing against the blade tang is the main source. This can easily be seen on most Sebenzas by holding it open with edge facing down, and firmly releasing the lock bar. The blade will swing downward on gravity alone. It's best to do this just above a surface or otherwise guard your thumb against the edge.

This illustrates the relative frictional contribution of the pivot is low, relative to the ball bearing against the blade tang.

The implication is don't polish the washers or focus on that as a primary friction source as if it were a door hinge. Rather lubricate the lock bar ball bearing and side of the blade tang.

I've tried Benchmade Blue Lube, Tuf-Glide, and CRK flourinated grease on my small Sebenza 21. IMO CRK fluorinated grease works the best.
 
The CRK grease is the best i've used, I tried miltec, milcomm, various gun oils, 3-in-1's and finally strapped down and got my self a syringe which has lasted me over a year, and I take my sebenza down every other week to clean and inspect.

I read somewhere the people don't put lube on the top of the washers which makes contact with the titanium because there isn't any movement there, but I actually put some up there, because I found if I didn't that the washers would tarnish without it, leaving them greenish looking, so I put a little bit of grease everywhere, makes the action buttery silky smooth....nice....
 
+1 on the "no vaseline"...what a mess. I prefer super lightweight bike chain oil with PTFE in it. I found this stuff called Rock'N'Roll lube that "firms up" over night into a kind of slippery Teflon jello. It repels pocket lint and grime too. A tiny bottle has lasted me about 2 years for all of my folders. If you think about it, a bike chain is just like a knife pivot, times 100. Basically metal-on-metal pivots with dirt, rust and grime to worry about. I also like the Tri-Flow drip bottles, but it doesn't last quite as long as the RNR.
 
stampede said:
+1 on the "no vaseline"...what a mess. I prefer super lightweight bike chain oil with PTFE in it. I found this stuff called Rock'N'Roll lube that "firms up" over night into a kind of slippery Teflon jello. It repels pocket lint and grime too. A tiny bottle has lasted me about 2 years for all of my folders. If you think about it, a bike chain is just like a knife pivot, times 100. Basically metal-on-metal pivots with dirt, rust and grime to worry about. I also like the Tri-Flow drip bottles, but it doesn't last quite as long as the RNR.
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I should clarify that it (vaseline) does provide some relief, but not nearly as much as the proper lube does.
 
Are you talking about militec-1? From what I've read the way to make it work as a lube is to bake it in (muliple times like with a cast iron skillet, but obviously not so hot that it messes with your temper) so that it bonds with the steel. It works without baking on guns because enough firing will heat it sufficiently. Otherwise I think the previous poster is right: it would dissipate too soon. Now, on the other hand, I know diddly about whether or not it's okay to bake your knife with Ti, steel and brass expanding and contracting differently. I'd stick with the grease myself.
 
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