Premium spark plugs?

MVF

MVF

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2005
Messages
2,811
Hi all, Anyone have experience with premium spark plugs? I've been looking around on the internet without feeling like I'm getting any straight info. Basically, I'm willing to pay more for plugs if it means I only have to change them half as often. Better mileage and performance would be great too of course.

The only plugs I've found that actually give a mileage guarantee are the Pulstars and everyone seems to be calling B.S. on them, including some pretty well documented tests. My info is that the stock plugs are good for about 30k, so if you know that a particular plug is good for 60k or better I'd love to hear about it.

If it matters, this is for a 2005 Tacoma V-6 4x4 with 65k miles, driven "briskly" but not really worked too hard with a bit of off-roading thrown in whenever I get the chance.

TIA, Mike
 
Rule of thumb, keep stock plugs in a stock motor. Anything different will lessen motor performance.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Rule of thumb, keep stock plugs in a stock motor. Anything different will lessen motor performance.
Click to expand...

+1

A 2005 should have platiniums in it. If so, those plugs should be good for around 100k according to the manufacture, give or take. 80k to be on the safe side. Replace them with the OEM plug and you are good to go for another 80k.

My 97 Tacoma had standard plugs but the GF's Mustang had platiniums in it, changed them at 95K or so and they needed it.
 
Yes, stick with whatever plugs the Dealer provides you with.
 
I've always used oem (or equivilent), that's what the engine is tuned/calibrated for
I've had BMW M3's, Porsches, Audi RS4, etc.
oem is the way to go

in fact changed the RS4's last evening
NGK oem
 
ssblood said:
+1

A 2005 should have platiniums in it. If so, those plugs should be good for around 100k according to the manufacture, give or take. 80k to be on the safe side. Replace them with the OEM plug and you are good to go for another 80k.

My 97 Tacoma had standard plugs but the GF's Mustang had platiniums in it, changed them at 95K or so and they needed it.
Click to expand...

That's what I would have thought too, but the maintenance schedule says every 30k- and they want $175! Since I'm off warranty I'm going to do it myself, but it's a lot more trouble than it used to be- engine covers and individual coils and whatever. That's why I was hoping to go with platinums (or equivalent iridium, yttrium) if someone had tried it and knew it would be worth the extra cost.

Theoretically, not changing the heat range would still make them equivalent to the stock plugs.
 
At one time I worked directly with Ford engineers, I'll take their word over the spark plug company any day.

$175 :eek: I should have stayed a mechanic. Don't be intimidated by all the plastic covers and coil packs, its not as bad as it seems.
 
I changed so many spark plugs its not even funny , NGK there best I have tried.
 
The tip metals (Pt, Ir) are there for their "hardness" and last longer than other center electrodes. The more expensive plugs have the ground electrode (the curved one) plated in Pt or Ir as well. But it's not all about the tip... the whole plug gets a beating in there... so you don't want to leave them in there forever.

Rule of thumb is Pt's generally last 60,000 miles. Ir generally 100,000 miles. Add 20,000 miles to those numbers if the ground electrode is also plated. I swear by NGKs. No gimmicky crap.
 
Now that's what I was looking for! Thanks Weinard, a friend who's a mechanic and the guy at the parts said the same thing. I just bought the NGK Iridium IXs-if they even go 60k I've saved time and money. I plan on keeping the truck, so 100k would be great!
 
I follow OEM standards, but you can get more inexpensive parts that meet OEM specs than Brand name OEM parts from your dealer.
Dealer platinum plugs for $25 each, or good brand platinum plugs for $10 each.



In terms of spark plugs, don't rush to try to get 100K from them.
That's what- 5, 7 years or more ?

Talk to a specialized motor rebuild shop and see how often they get mobile service calls to remove seized plugs.
They only get those calls AFTER the original shop has broken off a plug, or stripped out the threads.
and


It may even have to have the head removed and re-machined, or helicoiled, or replace the head.
Calculate those costs. - You save nothing if you have to do that.

New cars that use aluminum heads and the platinum plugs that last for extended periods are especially susceptible to this.



When you install, use a high temp anti-seize lube like a graphite or moly lube spray or paste.


Remove re-lube and inspect those plugs each year.
Maybe you re-install the same plugs, maybe you change them.

The simple and cheap step of removing, inspecting and lubing them each year, can save you THOUSANDS of dollars.


The first time may be intimidating, but the second time won't be, and the more often you do it, but more familiar you will be.
Just do one at at time and you won't mix the stuff up.

If you have compressed air, spend half an hour to blow the dust out of the engine and spark plug area before and just after you loosen a plug (but before you remove it).
Garages won't spend that time, but it's worth it to keep that dust out of your engine internals.
 
Last edited:
OK, enough with the idiot remarks. I love it when people who don't know what they're talking about are willing to not only share their ignorance, but call other people- even those who actually do the research and talk to people in the business- stupid. Thanks to all the negative remarks here, I went to a lot of extra trouble to verify what I already knew from the beginning.

The facts are, as far as what constitutes a "stock" spark plug, dimensions and heat range are the only thing your engine cares about. It doesn't know or care what the plugs are made of. So, while you all are more than welcome to keep using cheap plugs and replacing them every 30k, I'll be happy to pay less than twice as much for plugs that will last three times as long. Just in case the math is a problem for you, that means I will be saving money.

Thanks to those who actually answered the question asked, and to 12345678910 for the tip about checking them annually (I did use anti-seize).
 
Last edited:
Thing is most people have no clue about cars, sometimes that includes those that work on them. When replacing plugs people often get caught up by the fancy plugs on the shelf with the promise of increased performance. The problem usually starts when they buy platinum plugs for a vehicle that does not take them thus resulting in all sorts of funny noises and your motor running like crap. It's the reason why most will say put stock plugs in your motor because getting "high performance" plugs usually results in lower performance. Now if you have really done your homework and are confident in your decision then go for it.
 
MVF said:
Hi all, Anyone have experience with premium spark plugs? I've been looking around on the internet without feeling like I'm getting any straight info. Basically, I'm willing to pay more for plugs if it means I only have to change them half as often. Better mileage and performance would be great too of course.

The only plugs I've found that actually give a mileage guarantee are the Pulstars and everyone seems to be calling B.S. on them, including some pretty well documented tests. My info is that the stock plugs are good for about 30k, so if you know that a particular plug is good for 60k or better I'd love to hear about it.

If it matters, this is for a 2005 Tacoma V-6 4x4 with 65k miles, driven "briskly" but not really worked too hard with a bit of off-roading thrown in whenever I get the chance.

TIA, Mike
Click to expand...

toyotas = NGK or Denso. if you get anything besides those 2 you are a moron and do not deserve such a great truck
 
MVF said:
OK, enough with the idiot remarks. I love it when people who don't know what they're talking about are willing to not only share their ignorance, but call other people- even those who actually do the research and talk to people in the business- stupid. Thanks to all the negative remarks here, I went to a lot of extra trouble to verify what I already knew from the beginning.

The facts are, as far as what constitutes a "stock" spark plug, dimensions and heat range are the only thing your engine cares about. It doesn't know or care what the plugs are made of. So, while you all are more than welcome to keep using cheap plugs and replacing them every 30k, I'll be happy to pay less than twice as much for plugs that will last three times as long. Just in case the math is a problem for you, that means I will be saving money.

Thanks to those who actually answered the question asked, and to 12345678910 for the tip about checking them annually (I did use anti-seize).
Click to expand...

do you know for a FACT that the heat range of irridium plugs are the same as the factory 30k mile plugs?? NGK to be extact? if so please post proof here. i have to see it to believe it. here is some good info

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp?mode=nml
 
Last edited:
EDIT-- so i talked with NGK themselves and they said to use this its the Laser Irridium from NGK (different from other irridiums they sell) and they verified its the EXACT heat range as the stock cheapo's and they are dual grounded just like what toyota wants you to use in those 3.4's.......... here is the part # BKR5EKPB-11. they last 75-80k miles. i may switch to these. i drive many miles.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top