Preparing billet question

weo

weo

Joined
Sep 21, 2014
Messages
3,111
Hello all. I hope the week is going better for y'all than me...

I'm wondering how quickly one needs to weld up the seams on a billet after spryaing WD-40 in the seams when dry welding. The reason I'm asking is that my welder is an old Onan generator/stick welder and I'm wondering if I need to keep the gas engine running while I spray, or can I spray then start the engine? I realize it's not much, but I'd rather only hear that running for as long as I have to.

Thanks

as always
peace and love
billyO
 
I’m a little confused. You say your dry welding but using WD40 between the layers and then stick welding all the layers closed? If you using WD40 then it’s not technically dry welding. And why would you trap WD40 inside your billet. I dry weld all the time and never use anything with it. If you control the atmosphere of your forge so it’s rich then you don’t even need to weld the layers. Just tack the layers togather and heat and once hot you press. I have also wrapped billets in stainless heat treat foil which also works really good. Flux is not glue it just protects the steels surface from the oxygen as well as cleans it. If you start with clean steel and run you forge right then there is no problem going truly dry. Me personally would not trap something (WD40) between the steel that is not steel.
 
Since WD-40 is flammable welding it should be interesting. You will never get all of the oxygen out from between the layers before during or after welding it up. Instead you should weld it together let it cool down and spray it with WD-40. Get your forge up to heat before putting the billet into the forge. Once in the forge don't take it out until you are ready to set the weld. WD-40 or kerosene on the billet will draw out the oxygen when it ignites as you put it into the forge.
 
Soak the cold billet in a paint can full of kerosene. DON'T do that when it is hot. :D
 
Hi all. Thanks. JT, now I'm confused...o_O

A more experienced master bladesmith suggested it to ensure that all the O2 would burn up between the layers. I'd rather not soak in kerosene or spray WD-40 if I didn't have to. I have made a couple of billets successfully without flux and only tacking up the pieces at the ends and one line down the center of the billet (dry welding?) but I haven't done it enough times to be entirely confident and want to give myself every advantage....but like I said, if I'm worrying too much or overthinking, then I can change my thoughts.

Thanks
 
I just weld right over it. Most steams off, some burns. Not really a big deal.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top