Prepping blades to apply Renaissance Wax

FortyTwoBlades said:
While I agree there are cheaper waxes I'd be cautious about using just any old wax on knives you want to preserve. Much depends on the specific composition. Some may have negative effects over time or contaminate easily stained materials. Use something you know the composition and long-term stability of.
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I asked ChatGTP about Renaissance Wax vs paste wax and it gave me a list of reason why Renaissance Wax is superior.
Rover-Frisky
 
I would think if it would protect car paint, it wouldn't hurt steel.
Every thing that goes out of my shop has a coat of Johnson's paste wax on it (soon to be Minwax, because Johnson's is out of production.)
 
ChatGPT response to my question re:Renaissance Wax vs paste Wax....

Paste wax (like Minwax, Johnson's, or carnauba-based waxes) can offer some protection for knife blades, but Renaissance Wax is significantly superior for a few reasons:

✅ Why Renaissance Wax Is Better:
Microcrystalline Structure:

Renaissance Wax is a microcrystalline wax, unlike most paste waxes which are carnauba- or beeswax-based. This makes it:

More chemically stable

More moisture-resistant

Less likely to yellow or degrade over time

Non-Acidic & Neutral pH:

It’s designed for use on metal, leather, bone, and wood without harming them.

Ultra-Thin, Durable Film:

Leaves a hard, thin, invisible coating that resists fingerprints, oxidation, and moisture.

Used by Museums and Collectors:

Trusted by institutions (British Museum, Smithsonian) for preserving metal, including antique firearms and swords.

⚠️ Paste Wax Limitations:
Good for wood or furniture, but:

May contain acids or solvents that aren’t ideal for carbon steel

Tends to wear off faster

Can build up and become tacky or flaky over time

Less water and corrosion resistant

💡 Bottom Line:
Use Renaissance Wax if:

You want the best long-term protection

The knife is collectible, carbon steel, or exposed to moisture

Paste wax is okay for temporary or light-duty use, or on knife handles (especially wood or bone), but it’s not ideal for blade protection.
 
Many natural waxes decompose into acids and while those acids are typically mild and take a VERY long time to start forming, it's nonetheless not ideal for long-term storage/protection, especially when some materials may be particularly sensitive to acids. A lot of car waxes have abrasives in them that are used to "freshen" the appearance of the paint.
 
You can take anything made of paper or card, like a business card, saturate it with Ren' Wax, let it dry and "buff" with paper towel. It is now waterproof. Tried this on things with various print and so far not had it disolve any print ink, colors etc or cause any discoloration. Institutions even use it on photographs for exhibition to protect them from handling and atmospheric degradation.

You can use it on cloth or leatherbound books to protect them, canvas and leather watch bands.

I've used it on gun leather and knife sheaths, belts, wallets, gloves and shoes.

Best way to apply it is with clean hands/fingers. Scoop out a small dab, spread it around and work into stitching, corners etc. Your body temperature will melt it and it will penetrate porous materials.

On knives with wood, bone or any other natural handle it can be rubbed on and when liquified will work its way into any micro gaps between the handle material and the tangs, liners, guards, pins etc sealing out all moisture.
 
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I have been using various waxes in my restoration work for the last 25 years. As stated, I have used paste wax, neutral shoe polish, Renaissance Wax, and car wax. When using car wax, use your brain and make sure it doesn't contain any abrasives.

Shoe polish is pretty handy to have around. It's designed to protect leather shoes-which see a lot of dirt and abuse. It hasn't degraded any knife materials so far.
Same with car wax.
Paste wax (Johnson's) is my go-to for removing polishing compounds and finishing knives ready for shipment. It shines things up, offers light protection and prevents finger prints.

I too, jumped on the Renaissance Wax bandwagon when it came out. It's easy to buff off if applied very lightly. It does what most waxes do. Just recently, one of my guitars was really crudded up with fingerprints fro use outside on a hot day. The Rennaisance Wax was handy, so I applied it. It was very difficult to buff off, and the surface did not look waxed at all after buffing. I just have never been impressed with this product. It is designed to protect items in a museum setting- items not handled or subjected to use. I don't hate the stuff. It works OK. I have never played into the hype. It doesn't work better in practice (remember- I use wax all the time) and it's very expensive. I don't think the expense justifies it's use. But just like oils with "nano" particles, there are those that will buy it.

No wax is going to be left on most using knives long enough to degrade anything. Wax-like oils, wears off quickly.

You guys use whatever you feel does the best job for you. I'm just giving you the benefit of many years of experience handling literally many thousands of knives- many ACTUAL museum pieces.
 
Used it on gun leather, mag pouches, baton holder etc and duty belt in hot humid SE Texas for many years. Just one example.

I still have those items (somewhere). Except for a little "corner wear" from rubbing, car seat contact wear etc they look almost new. Yeah it holds up.
 
Ren Wax for the win. You spent the money on the quality knives so protect them with Ren Wax…..It works on the leather sheaths as many others have said and on any scale material.
 
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