Prepping for hand rub

I start form the tip on most knives and out from the plunge with a constant motion, you dont have to rub in haste go slow, first make sure there are no scratches at different angles and rub back and forth, surely some hooks will be there, after then start to the constant action to remove the hooks. I'm pretty sure there are some starting from plunge but it doesn't work for me...
 
M.Griffin said:
I am looking for some suggestions as to what combination of belts works best for you when preparing to hand rub up to 800 or 1000 grit. I am wondering what grits and brands of belts are used most effectively. Right now I am using blaze belts to rough everything in, then going to 220 Norton Norzac, and finishing with 400 J-flex. I know the j-flex probably isn't ideal, but it is what I have. Then I go back to 320 to start hand finishing. This has been taking me forever to get the scratches out. It is making me crazy.

The discussion on how great the gator belts are in higher grits got me thinking I should be on the grinder to 600 or 800, then stepping back to 400 to hand finish. I am just using way too much shop time hand sanding. I know it takes a lot of time, but I think I am doing something wrong. Thanks for any input.

-Mike
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So, what steel are you using... and/or what steel(s) are you intending to use?

Mike
 
I am mostly using 1095 and 5160. My most recent issues were (still are) with a 1095 kitchen knife. I like finishing kitchen knives very fine to try to ward off rust as much as possible. I think I am most likely not doing a complete enough job with the 400 grit belt. I think there are left over scratches from the 220 belt that I don't see until I start hand rubbing. I like the idea of tilting the blade slightly to make the 220 scratches show better. I will try that.
I have also been using windex when hand rubbing the finer grits 400 and up. Once I get things even at 400, everything else is pretty easy which leads me to believe I am leaving deep scratches from earlier with the grinder.

Thanks for all the great info. Very informative and helpful. Seeing people post about it only taking them an hour or two gives me hope.

-Mike
 
After your 220 belt, hand sand lengthwise with 220 paper. It goes quickly, being the same grit, and allows you to assure there are no deep scratches left behind as surprises. It is also easier to cut across the scratchmarks with your next belt in sequence.
I frequently do this belt/crosswise followed by (same grit) hand sand/lengthwise hopscotch through the grits when I want my best finish, especially with high alloy steels that have a lot of tough-to-hand sand carbides.
 
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fitzo said:
After your 220 belt, hand sand lengthwise with 220 paper. It goes quickly, being the same grit, and allows you to assure there are no deep scratches left behind as surprises. It is also easier to cut across the scratchmarks with your next belt in sequence.
I frequently do this belt/crosswise followed by (same grit) hand sand/lengthwise hopscotch through the grits when I want my best finish, especially with high alloy steels that have a lot of tough-to-hand sand carbides.
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Thank you...

Mike
 
fitzo said:
After your 220 belt, hand sand lengthwise with 220 paper. It goes quickly, being the same grit, and allows you to assure there are no deep scratches left behind as surprises. It is also easier to cut across the scratchmarks with your next belt in sequence.
I frequently do this belt/crosswise followed by (same grit) hand sand/lengthwise hopscotch through the grits when I want my best finish, especially with high alloy steels that have a lot of tough-to-hand sand carbides.
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I'll get on this bus too - Thanks Mike! That sounds like a fine idea. Seems like I once considered this and then thought it would be too much work or something - so I inevitably worked much harder, finding those hidden scratches. I have a fairly large hollow grind coming up that's going to need a nice finish; I'll give your belt/crosswise hoodoo a try. Palm sander does not work on concave surfaces. ;) Thanks very much!
 
Will Leavitt said:
Is it? :confused: I hand rub using baby oil until I get to higher grits.... I'm going to try it the other way this time.

I'm serious, for years I've used baby oil until I get to my final grit. At least it's not a hard change to make.

I've used a Bruce's palm sander method with vary amounts of success. I still try it about every third blade or so. Probably if I made a commitment to it I'd get it nailed.
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Will I apologize - I thought I'd replied to this but don't see it anywhere. So many interruptions around here I'm seldom sure what I've actually done or just intended to do. Anyway - I am questioning this now too, so I'm going to try your method when I work Mike's belt/crosswise hoodoo on the hollow grind. I'll get a subjective opinion that way at least.

But it's gotten me wondering whether there's an objective way to test which fluid works best at which grit. I've given it some thought but without one of those cool scratch measuring instruments the abrasive marketeers use I'm not sure how to approach it. Maybe photographically with a critical eye? Maybe a survey of the photos with many critical eyes, averaging out the results? I don't know yet but I think it's worth looking into. But there are so many variables, just among paper brands and cutting fluids, not to mention backing for the paper etc. Makes my head spin. So I've been thinking about just using the same old paper I've been using with the same old cutting fluids, and using a Micarta block to back the paper. Any ideas? I'd be willing to devote a weekend to this kind of test.
 
ddavelarsen said:
But it's gotten me wondering whether there's an objective way to test which fluid works best at which grit. I've given it some thought but without one of those cool scratch measuring instruments the abrasive marketeers use I'm not sure how to approach it. Maybe photographically with a critical eye? Maybe a survey of the photos with many critical eyes, averaging out the results? I don't know yet but I think it's worth looking into. But there are so many variables, just among paper brands and cutting fluids, not to mention backing for the paper etc. Makes my head spin. So I've been thinking about just using the same old paper I've been using with the same old cutting fluids, and using a Micarta block to back the paper. Any ideas? I'd be willing to devote a weekend to this kind of test.
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Dave,
No apologies necessary, we're all students of the craft and chances are likely I'm wrong as I often am. :D I've got 6 blades on the bench for finishing and hand rubbing. I'll take the 2 and rub one with oil and the other with water in the early stages. I may try something I used to do in the Army polishing my jump boots and that's mix some alcohol in with the water as a drying agent to keep rust spots down. Perhaps that should be a third blade. Keep in mind gents that none of the blades are similar sized :(

I'll keep y'all posted on the results and try to get some pictures.
 
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