Preserving Marine Raider Stiletto

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Mar 14, 2022
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Given the amount of experience on this forum, I would like to request advice on how to best proceed with a Marine Raider Stiletto that has quite a bit of surface rust and a blunted tip, but is otherwise a nice specimen. This knife came to me in this condition and was clearly stored in the original sheath for decades given the rust pattern.

I know that it is generally not advised to remove patina from antique knives or to sharpen/reshape/re-tip blades. However, rust is the enemy of carbon steel blades and will continue to degrade the blade. Would it be advisable to use Metal Glo, Brasso, Googone, or WD-40 to remove the rust? If not these, then what?

Thanks,

UPDATE: I just added the URL and pictures from IMGUR below:

 
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I cleaned-up a knife last year and had real good luck with 3-IN-ONE oil.

For the life of me, I can't recall what I used to scrub, but it was either a Scotch Brite or copper scrubber.
 
On that model knife, the blade would be the easy part, but the handle... not so much.

The knives were made by Camillus Cutlery with a cast onto the tang handle that was made of a zinc alloy of some sort.
As these age, the handles have been disintegrating. I don't think anything can be done to prevent this on these. Some will last longer than others, but those handles all seem to have a limited longevity shelf life.
 
I flatten a rifle cartridge and use it as a scraper to knock the rust blumes off. Do it dry so the abrasive rust dust falls away.

Blow it off with compressed air, or even the exhaust port from a shop vac.

Then oil it and rub it with a rag.

This method even works on blued guns. The brass is too soft to scratch the bluing.
 
Thanks! I think the same company that Camillus used to cast the handles for them on the originals, is the same they used to cast them onto their commemorative.
I believe it was somewhere in the Syracuse NY area. Too bad those molds couldn't be tracked down 🤔
 
depending on how much rust...a pencil type eraser will clean up smaller amounts of rust without marking up the blade and finish.....wont do well at all on massive rusting though....
 
The eraser scares me, but as stated it should be fine on a small rust spot. the rust is very abrasive and could become imbedded in the rubber. Thats why I don’t use an oily rag, until the rust is removed.

Some people recommend using a pencil, I haven’t tried it, but see no reason it won’t work.

As stated the handle on this knife is a time bomb, so the OP shouldn’t be too concerned.
 
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Just my opinion and personal experience. I am not a historical knife collector.

I have used scotchbrite pads in various grits pads to very nicely clean carbon steel blades. I usually prefer the finer pads to the coarse pads but they do a great job cleaning up a blade.

I have done this to a M1 bayonet cut down to a fighting knife from wwii that was carried by and I inherited from my grandpa that was in a similar condition.

If the value is purely sentimental, do what you can to stop future damage and preserve it.
 
Given the amount of experience on this forum, I would like to request advice on how to best proceed with a Marine Raider Stiletto that has quite a bit of surface rust and a blunted tip, but is otherwise a nice specimen. This knife came to me in this condition and was clearly stored in the original sheath for decades given the rust pattern.

I know that it is generally not advised to remove patina from antique knives or to sharpen/reshape/re-tip blades. However, rust is the enemy of carbon steel blades and will continue to degrade the blade. Would it be advisable to use Metal Glo, Brasso, Googone, or WD-40 to remove the rust? If not these, then what?

Thanks,

I will try to add a URL or picture.
On that model knife, the blade would be the easy part, but the handle... not so much.

The knives were made by Camillus Cutlery with a cast onto the tang handle that was made of a zinc alloy of some sort.
As these age, the handles have been disintegrating. I don't think anything can be done to prevent this on these. Some will last longer than others, but those handles all seem to have a limited longevity shelf life.
Thanks for your input. I have heard about this problem as well and I have seen examples of the deteriorating handles. Some predict that eventually all of the original USMC raider knives will succumb to this fate. However, I personally believe that is not the end of the story and much more can and will be done to preserve these historical knives. More on that in a later post.
 
As has been mentioned by several posters, the Zinc alloy used in the original Marine Raider Stiletto tends to deteriorate over time. In fact, I have been actively researching the issue in hopes of coming up with a solution that will help preserve these knives for the long term. This solution will likely come in several different forms:

Metallurgy:
Apparently, due to wartime contingencies, strategic metals such as brass and copper were avoided and an experimental new Zinc alloy was used. This is actually part of the historical charm of the knife. Unfortunately, impurities in the alloy and exposure to moisture play a role in premature deterioration. It is my belief that the inconsistencies and impurities will surface at varying times and that some handles may be more resilient than others. Those remaining intact after 75+ years may be the best of the rest.

Environment/Storage:
Short of encasing them with inert Argon gas, there are other practical ways to slow down or prevent the deterioration of Marine Raider handles. I live in a rather arid Climate that is much more conducive to preservation than the South Pacific Jungles where these knives saw action. (In fact, I work just minutes away from where the knife was first designed and deployed at Camp Pendleton, CA). It is my hope that keeping it dry and padded will ensure a long life. Of course, I also wear gloves when handling and do not keep it in the original moisture-collecting leather sheath.

Reformulation/Replacement:
As mentioned by another poster, before they closed up shop, the original manufacturer, Camillus of New York discovered a barrel of original Raider Stiletto Blades. These rare surplus blades were mated with new post-war handles. They found that reformulating and recasting the handles with another zinc alloy, namely pewter, results in a more stable and resilient handle. I own one of these as well and they are a beautiful and fitting tribute to the original, fetching hundreds of dollars in their own right. More recently, HG Long of Sheffield, England was commissioned by the Marine Raider Association to make a similar tribute knife using their own molds from an exemplary original specimen. I have a recently manufactured rubber version of this knife, so I know the molds are still available. Sure, such restoration will decrease the value in the eyes of collectors vs. an original, but as fewer remain, what is the alternative for collecting such a compelling knife?

“Raider Infinity”:
As original handles deteriorate, enterprising collectors will find a way to repair/recast them using the original blades and supplemental alloys rather than throwing them into the dustbin of history. It might be a Quixotic quest or my own personal “white whale”, but I don’t really care. Many other handle types deteriorate in adverse/moist conditions as well. Greenhorn, wood, and leather handles don’t like moisture. I have seen many leather-handled “Ka-Bar” type knives in poor condition due to moisture.The Robeson SurEdge with red spacer has a weak tang with an Achilles heel at the butt plate, but it is one of the most collectible of all the WW2 Mark 2 knives. The Collins #18 Greenhorn Bowie is another example of a beautiful knife with aging handle and broken brass guard issues. They all have their quirks, but I still love them all! Like these classic WW2 knives, the historic USMC Raider Stiletto will survive as an important piece of history.

Conclusion:
Proper care and storage, along with science and ingenuity, will go a long way towards preserving any knife. If my Raider handle ever crumbles, I will certainly make a new handle by melting down the pieces and recasting it supplemented with pewter to fix the original problem. In the meantime, I will certainly put forth the effort to remove rust from the blade in the proper manner. After all, everyone on this forum should understand that knife collecting is a labor of love.
 
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The eraser scares me, but as stated it should be fine on a small rust spot. the rust is very abrasive and could become imbedded in the rubber. Thats why I don’t use an oily rag, until the rust is removed.

Some people recommend using a pencil, I haven’t tried it, but see no reason it won’t work.

As stated the handle on this knife is a time bomb, so the OP shouldn’t be too concerned.
I will do my best to preserve it all the same. Fragile handles aside, these knives are not going to disappear into thin air. I plan to keep one long-term in my private collection. Camillus and HG long have proven that the design is timeless. The blade will endure and the handle can be recast. As it stands this knife has a perfectly preserved handle and I would be remiss in my duties as the current custodian if I did not arrest the rust.
 
Here are examples of the other knives I mentioned from my collection that are less than perfect but still worthy of my attention. The Red Spacer USMC Robeson, a very good original Marine Raider Stiletto, and a very good Collins & Co Legitimus No. 18 Bowie Green Horn:
 
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We need to see pictures of the actual blade-otherwise we are just guessing at methods.
As someone who professionally restores knives, I can tell you NOT to use Scotchbrite pads or anything abrasive.
The safest thing to use on your blade is WD 40 or WD 40 specialist. Neither will remove all of the rust, though.
 
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