Preserving Marine Raider Stiletto

Bill DeShivs said:
We need to see pictures of the actual blade-otherwise we are just guessing at methods.
As someone who professionally restores knives, I can tell you NOT to use Scotchbrite pads or anything abrasive.
The safest thing to use on your blade is WD 40 or WD 40 specialist. Neither will remove all of the rust, though.
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Thanks bill,
Your input is greatly appreciated. I just posted the link to a picture a couple replies up with the title “Rusty Raider”.
 
If, as if some have speculated, all the original WW2 Raider Stiletto handles are indeed “time-bombs” destined to disintegrate, then I believe that actions can and should be taken to delay the inevitable as long as possible. However, even if this deterioration progresses beyond the point of no return, the original blades can be mated with recast handles formulated from the remaining original purified zinc pieces within a corrected pewter formulation to prevent future cracking/ion leaching. Will these reconstructed rescues be as valuable as before? I don’t have a clue. But I can say for certain that the alternative is not acceptable and that no self-respecting Marine would stand idly by and let these knives quietly disappear into oblivion.

We have already confirmed through various threads throughout this forum that molds made from pristine original USMC Raider stiletto handles still exist and could be commissioned for the purpose of rescuing these intriguing knives. As intact originals become more and more scarce, dedicated individuals (mostly Marines such as myself) will certainly seek out and clean up the original blades with the intent of rescuing these relics. Camillus actually already did this to a degree when it found the barrel of surplus blades! It stands to reason that veterans and enthusiasts like me should do what is necessary to ensure enough un-rusted original blades survive to enable such future efforts to succeed.

I do not pretend to be a prognosticator or an expert. I am just getting ahead of the power curve by seeking to responsibly clean up and preserve the rusted blade of a currently intact example of a historical knife. As such, any help in identifying the most appropriate blade preservation techniques will be greatly appreciated.
 
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Sidehill Gouger said:
Given the handle problems with those, I wouldn't worry too much about cleaning the rust off and reshaping the tip.
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Not to flame you or be disrespectful, because your point is generally well-taken, because of, well…science. However, IMHO you are being short-sighted and prematurely assigning irrelevance to this particular knife. There will always be a market for this model knife in whatever reincarnation it blooms. If you doubt me, then please see the pictorial examples of other so-called “flawed” WW2 Marine knives in my collection that remain premium collectors items more than 80 years later and which routinely command 4 digit premiums in the market despite their known flaws.
 
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0000 steel wool, used dry will remove most of the surface rust. Use it gently, and wipe as much of the red dust off as possible while you are doing it.
Once the surface rust is gone, soak the blade in WD 40 and wipe dry. Do this several times until no more rust comes off on the cloth.
 
I spent some time with my stiletto this weekend. I must say, the handle is exquisite and in phenomenal shape for an 80 year old knife! I made some good progress with WD-40 and 0000 Steel Wool. It took some elbow grease, but I believe the rust has been arrested for the most part. There is an interesting patina on the blade which the camera does not adequately pick up. I was careful on the etched areas because they are already very faint. The only negative is that there is some pitting on the blade about 1inch from the tip. I can barely feel it with my fingernail, but it is visible when I zoom it with the camera. I suppose the best I can do is to ensure there is no rust and believe the pits give it character. Any more recommendations are appreciated. Below are the after/before pictures:

https://imgur.com/a/nNPBOaY
 
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That handle looks very nice. You may want to to stop here. It appears you have removed the active rust. If all you want is to preserve it, oil or wax to protect it and put it in a nice shadowbox. If you want to replace the handle, by all means go ahead. So long as you do not try to pass it off as original it should fine. But if you are going to sell it sometime down the line I think most collectors will not want it except maybe as a place holder.
 
Also, dont store it in the sheath.;) If the sheath is still intact, with the pancake flipper section, and hasnt been modified (removed/cut down/etc...), I think that increases the overall value as well.
 
Thanks. I would never replace the handle unless it crumbled to dust. I am hopeful that this is one Zinc alloy handle that had very few impurities and will last indefinitely. I think you are right about not going beyond rust removal/preservation.

The Sheath is in pretty good shape and will never be used for storage due to moisture entrapment, tannins, and scratches. I would like to display it next to the stiletto. It still has some unit information on the reverse, so I will have to be gentle with any leather preservation as well. I am dumbfounded that I can hold a weapon that was hastily produced in the dire opening days of WW2 and then issued to the U.S.’s very first official Special Operations Commandos!

I have purchased some Renaissance Wax but I am unclear about the best way to apply it and whether it should go on the handle. Any advice?

https://imgur.com/a/18BdRsG
 
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I want to ensure I do it right because removing wax from the handle would be challenging if it turned out to be a mistake.
 
Mixed up my sheaths. Ignore the pancake flapper bit. M6 sheath. There are videos on yt about preserving leather. I have not used RenWax so I cant help you there about the handle, the blade should be fine though. Also maybe try frog lube or one of the other new bio friendly gun oil/greases?
 
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Boattale said:
Naval Jelly AKA phsophoric acid jelled will remove rust and not damage underlying steel. Patina = zero after naval jelly.
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I don’t think I want to remove the patina. It’s actually kind of a cool grey pattern. The picture doesn’t do it justice. Besides, there are still remnants of the etched “USMC” scroll and the Maker’s Mark “Camillus NY” on the blade that don’t show up in the pictures. I would hate to deny these features from myself or any future owner. I am happy to have reached a preservation stasis at this point.
 
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