Presharpened Machetes

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Jan 3, 2005
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I've been doing some research on Machetes and I think I've settled on a 12" Ontario and an 18" Tramontina.

Ideally I'd like to do some modifications to the Ontario like in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVHeKNbRXgc

However I don't have the necessary equipment or knowhow (I'm just now getting into sharpening knives and so my abilities are fairly basic at this point).

Understanding machetes typically come with unfinished edges, do you guys know if anyone sells machetes pre-sharpened?

Regards
 
People in your position are exactly the sort that I envisioned the "Special Grade" items for. Some folks have the tools, time, and inclination to DIY, but many don't. :)

Thanks for the plug, Dan57! :D
 
I purchased one of the mod'd 12" Ontario's from 42 blades and it is AWESOME. Actually came sharper than some of my semi-custom and most factory knives. I spent the weekend batonning it through 1/4 cord of seasoned post oak and it is still sharp enough to cut 1/2 rope with one pass. +1 on 42 Blades mod I coudl not recommend it more.
 
Glad you like it! Grinding the scales flush with the tang and contouring them a bit sure doesn't make 'em look any prettier, but it makes them a ton more usable! :D
 
Also, Marbles and Condor machetes come presharpened. My Tramontinas came nicely sharpened from the ricasso to the belly, but totally unsharpened along the belly to the tip. And by "totally unsharpened" I mean 1/16" thick flat stock with no bevel at all.
 
Also, Marbles and Condor machetes come presharpened. My Tramontinas came nicely sharpened from the ricasso to the belly, but totally unsharpened along the belly to the tip. And by "totally unsharpened" I mean 1/16" thick flat stock with no bevel at all.

Yeah Tramontinas come with a crude edge on them (though fine by stock machete standards) that bleeds out as it approaches the somewhat rounded tip. After examining their shipping boxes and packaging methods I am certain that this is done to prevent the points from penetrating the rather thin cardboard boxes they come in. On the thicker ones like the 18" "Bush" model it takes a little while to grind all that down without overheating.

Order placed! Thanks guys

And received! I'll get it right out to ya'! Thanks! :thumbup:
 
Yeah Tramontinas come with a crude edge on them (though fine by stock machete standards) that bleeds out as it approaches the somewhat rounded tip. After examining their shipping boxes and packaging methods I am certain that this is done to prevent the points from penetrating the rather thin cardboard boxes they come in. On the thicker ones like the 18" "Bush" model it takes a little while to grind all that down without overheating.

I find that a 60 grit Zirconia belt, a coffee can full of water, and some paper towels do a pretty good job getting it down to where normal sharpening tools can be used
 
I start with a 40 grit Zirconia followed by Trizact belts down to 20 micron. :)
 
Yeah, the coarser grits with hard, sharp media like zirc don't heat up the metal terribly fast. I'm always amazed at how smooth a finish a coarse grit can apply on a belt sander, as compared to equal grits on sanding discs, etc. The length of the belt averages out all the randomness of the grit pattern while the coarse grit still cuts quickly.

Edit: Oops, I *do* use 40 grit, not 60. I just remembered it wrong. It's been quite a while since I've changed belts, since zirc media lasts so long.
 
Also, Marbles and Condor machetes come presharpened. My Tramontinas came nicely sharpened from the ricasso to the belly, but totally unsharpened along the belly to the tip. And by "totally unsharpened" I mean 1/16" thick flat stock with no bevel at all.

My Marbles came with a bit of an edge, my Tram 14" bolo literally had about 2mm of flat across the "cutting edge". My Imacasa wasn't quite that bad, but close.

I use the biggest Nicholson single cut mill file I could find. Straight grind to establish the bevels, then draw-file it. From there to a 1200 grit King waterstone and she's ready for anything. For practical purposes you could stop with the draw file method, but it only takes a few extra minutes on the waterstone to put a frightful edge on 'em.
 
Yeah, the coarser grits with hard, sharp media like zirc don't heat up the metal terribly fast. I'm always amazed at how smooth a finish a coarse grit can apply on a belt sander, as compared to equal grits on sanding discs, etc. The length of the belt averages out all the randomness of the grit pattern while the coarse grit still cuts quickly.

Edit: Oops, I *do* use 40 grit, not 60. I just remembered it wrong. It's been quite a while since I've changed belts, since zirc media lasts so long.

Yeah I like those belts a lot for doing the "heavy" grinding work. Allows me to remove a lot of material before things start getting warm. The Trizacts are great for the finer work and still remove a lot of material rapidly.

My Marbles came with a bit of an edge, my Tram 14" bolo literally had about 2mm of flat across the "cutting edge". My Imacasa wasn't quite that bad, but close.

I use the biggest Nicholson single cut mill file I could find. Straight grind to establish the bevels, then draw-file it. From there to a 1200 grit King waterstone and she's ready for anything. For practical purposes you could stop with the draw file method, but it only takes a few extra minutes on the waterstone to put a frightful edge on 'em.

Yeah. Rough grinds are the standard with machetes since the locals like to put different edges on them. The grind is intended to give you a head start, but not be an actual true edge.
 
Unfortunately the shortest I presently can get is the 12". I can cut 2" off them, though. :p

Tramontina USA is the supplier for distributors in the 'states and that's why you only see the models you do, vs. the ones on Tramontina's website. You'd have to go direct with Tramontina Brazil to get your hands on them and I'm in no position to do that right now. :o
 
Anyone try using a puck to finish the edge. I've heard of others doing it but have no experience using a puck.
 
The puck will give you a decent working edge but not as fine as I like. I like to use either a DMT Coarse/Fine Diafold or a Jewelstik "Stubby" oval diamond steel.
 
Yeah if you're going to use a stone of that class you may as well use the canoe. Keeps your fingers away from the edge and allows a longer stroke. Also feels slightly finer to me but I may be wrong.
 
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