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Press motor stalling under load
- Thread starter BKT
- Start date
kuraki
Fimbulvetr Knifeworks
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Ok. If you're using a 3 lead plug, omit the white neutral. Don't use it in your plug, don't use it in the motor.
220/240 doesn't use neutral to return, the hots alternate acting as neutral for each other. Since I don't know what the rest of your circuit looks like back to the panel and I'm not sure what color you have to what in your plug, you want hot hot ground from your panel to your motor. 120 from one side of the panel and 120 from the other.
220/240 doesn't use neutral to return, the hots alternate acting as neutral for each other. Since I don't know what the rest of your circuit looks like back to the panel and I'm not sure what color you have to what in your plug, you want hot hot ground from your panel to your motor. 120 from one side of the panel and 120 from the other.
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The only way your can get 120v out of a 3 wire set up is if you some how in the plug wired the other hot leg to the ground. White to black should be 240v. We won't go into all of this but for right now I will tell you that a ground is the same as a natural(not technely true, but thy do connect to to each other in the main panel). This being said if you measure from a hot leg to a ground you will have 120v. So if your truely getting 120v then something up stream is mixed up.
So all that being said this is how I would wire it up. If your wanting clockwise rotation which I'm assuming you do. Wire T1 and T5 togather with the black in your romex. Then wire T4 and T8 with the red wire or white. Color does not really matter but code says if a white wire is used as a 220 hot leg it has to be marked. Any way I would then wire the black wire on the plug side to the Y or X and the Red or white to the Y or X. The ground goes to the W. The w should be the weird shaped prong. And looking at your picture it looks like your ground is wired to the Y which is a hot leg terminal. That means the other hot leg is wired to the ground. Your lucky you did not shock the shit out of your self on themotor frame or press body.
So all that being said this is how I would wire it up. If your wanting clockwise rotation which I'm assuming you do. Wire T1 and T5 togather with the black in your romex. Then wire T4 and T8 with the red wire or white. Color does not really matter but code says if a white wire is used as a 220 hot leg it has to be marked. Any way I would then wire the black wire on the plug side to the Y or X and the Red or white to the Y or X. The ground goes to the W. The w should be the weird shaped prong. And looking at your picture it looks like your ground is wired to the Y which is a hot leg terminal. That means the other hot leg is wired to the ground. Your lucky you did not shock the shit out of your self on themotor frame or press body.
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Your wiring is all screwed up, these guys know what they are talking about. But you have two different cords (sets of wires), with different colors and different number of wires. I like to run one cord from machine to box or receptacle, in this case 2 hots (black/red) & a ground.
kuraki
Fimbulvetr Knifeworks
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I don't know how your outlet is wired, and if you've wired the plug to match, but assuming that the plug and outlet match yes, that's what you want. In that setup, white to ground is 120, black to ground is 120, and white to black is 240.
Test this for confirmation with your voltage meter. If you don't get 240 across the white and black as you've drawn, then your plug isn't wired to match your outlet.
Test this for confirmation with your voltage meter. If you don't get 240 across the white and black as you've drawn, then your plug isn't wired to match your outlet.
Sort of unrelated, but by my calculations I should be pushing around 24 tons with this setup. What's the thickest damascus billet you guys would try with that amount of force?
Edit: I think the only limit here is how much I am willing to lug around the shop. I did a 23 layer this morning and the press had no issue but after that thing got longer than 12" or so it was too damn heavy to lift it in and out of the forge. Thanks again for all the help.
Edit: I think the only limit here is how much I am willing to lug around the shop. I did a 23 layer this morning and the press had no issue but after that thing got longer than 12" or so it was too damn heavy to lift it in and out of the forge. Thanks again for all the help.
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You build a magic press. All my billets loose weight as I forge them out. If your press is adding weight then I would like to know your secret
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Glad you got it running. You say your press is 24tons. Where is your pressure gauge located. One thing to remember is every foot of hose, fitting, valve exc drops the pressure. So depending on where your pressure gauge is you could be actual getting a few hundred pounds less psi at the cylinder.
As to the mount you can press with 24 tons. I think that can't be answered acutactly. Most of the time when your forging with the press your taking bites. I have heard the number of 4 tons per square inch (cubic inch maybe) tossed around befor. Thy say that's the force needed for that much surface area contact. Which I have no idea how accurate those numbers are. I have tryied looking up the yeald strength of steel at forging temps but can't find anything useful.
.Glad you got it running. You say your press is 24tons. Where is your pressure gauge located. One thing to remember is every foot of hose, fitting, valve exc drops the pressure. So depending on where your pressure gauge is you could be actual getting a few hundred pounds less psi at the cylinder.
As to the mount you can press with 24 tons. I think that can't be answered acutactly. Most of the time when your forging with the press your taking bites. I have heard the number of 4 tons per square inch (cubic inch maybe) tossed around befor. Thy say that's the force needed for that much surface area contact. Which I have no idea how accurate those numbers are. I have tryied looking up the yeald strength of steel at forging temps but can't find anything useful.
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