Prevelance of the reliable ol' Buck 110

J

James Y

Joined
Feb 18, 1999
Messages
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I've been noticing for years now that the most prevalent work knife (not counting Leathermans, etc.) that is visible to the eye on people in public is the old Buck 110 or similar belt-holstered lockback (i.e., by Schrade, Puma, Case, etc.).
Even on T.V. when seeing a forest ranger, laborer, cowboy, etc., I often spot the telltale belt holster. I often make a cursory glance to see if I can spot knives on people, and only rarely do I seem to spot a clip knife (though one may be somewhere).
I have a Buck 110 and though thick and heavy, it's a solid knife...extremely so...and very inexpensive. Not as comfortable to carry or easy to bring out, but a superb outdoor knife where concealment/speed of deployment are not critical.

Has anyone else noticed this continued dominance of the 110 and inspired knives too?

Although my favorites are one-handers for general use, as an outdoor and general beat-up using knife, the old 110 can hardly be beat.
Jim
 
Yep, 110s are everywhere. A lot of folks still carry Colt 1911s, too. If a design is reliable, "battle-tested," and very common, it will continue to be used well after more advanced designs come along. That's not a criticism of either the knife or the gun; Reliability is the top concern in either item, and there's no better test of that than having been in use for a long time.

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-Corduroy
(Why else would a bear want a pocket?)
 
I agree and could never figure it out. There is something to be said for the tried and true and simplicity. Plus it is a damn good knife!

Me, I would get the auto version
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Mike Turber
BladeForums Site Owner and Administrator
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I think a lot of the popularity is also due to the widespread availability of the Buck. You can buy them in in most discount, hardware, or sporting good stores.

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Frank
jqsurf@worldnet.att.net

 
The Buck 110 is just a good, well made knife for +/- 30 bucks. You can buy them anywhere. Also, they look great engraved. There is really no competition in their corner of the market.
 
The Buck 110 was the first "good" knife I ever bought with my own money, and I still have it and its in great shape. 1978, I was 11 yrs old.

I babied it, it was the Cadillac...it wasn't until I got older that I started using it...dressing out deer and other game, etc.
It's retired now as it has a lot of sentimental value, but its as functional and sharp as a new one.
 
Buck makes a damn fine lockback! I carry a three-hundred dollar fixed blade and a sixty dollar Buck Titanium which is really just a 110 with titanium figer grooved handle. There is nothing at any price on the market right now I'd trade it for.

I have no problems with opening or closing is one-handed, nor is it slow to deploy. Anyone who thinks it's not a suitable defensive weapon needs to go get into a fight and try to quick-draw their knife, that is if their pocket clip hasn't been knocked off in a tussle. Just pulling a knife before actualy engaged in fighting means nothing. Speed is not a factor in those situations anyway. When actualy trying to pull a knife in a real fight you will find it's best to use both hands to open when/if you get the opotunity, and have it securely stored somewhere so it doesn't get dislodged right up front. I don't care who heard what from who or what they've read in some book. I've been in fights. I carry knives. I know what I'm talking about. Maybe I should get a website and a video so I can be an expert too...

Sorry if I pissed anybody off. While I speak the truth, I don't always say things the way I should. I need a disclaimer;

"While Snickersnee does not bear you any ill-will, and speaks the truth and offers advice based on the best 1st hand knowledge he can, he is an a$$hole. On behalf of Snickersnee Enterprises Ltd. he hereby apologizes for any toes he may have stepped on or any disparaging remarks. Thank you."

I don't know, something like that. I feel that acknowledging that I'm a windbag, standing by what I say and speaking the truth is the only thing that seperates me from a certain knifemaker who I don't think real highly of.

Anyway, my opinion;

"Tactical" knives suck. A good, solid, reliable lockback with a good handle, like a Buck Titanium, is a far better tool and weapon.

P.S. I had people say they think I'm carrying a balisong or switchblade when I open my knife. That's how slow to deploy it is.
 
Snick:
No offense taken. I rather like your posts, as I get to see opinions from a different point of view...and you bring a lot to the table. (I think I know which knifemaker you're talking about).
I've personally never been able to get my 110 to open with speed. However, I'm sure the problem is I've never really practiced doing so.

Jim
 
Quickdraw for a 110 or similar lockback

Stick the knife(closed) in the 5th pocket of your jeans(doesn't everybody wear Levi's?), with the spine of the blade facing front and the bottom of the handle at the top(i.e. if the blade was open, the tip would be pointing down, with the edge forward). If you want more security, tuck your belt over it.

To effect quickdraw, grab exposed blade with thumb and index finger, and do an inertial opening. If it's under a belt, you can either reach down inbetween the belt and your waist or lift the belt with your left hand as you draw with the right. A little practice and it's no slower than any tactical knife.

You can also open it like a SpyderCo or Sebenza, but your index finger helps out a first by pinching it between your thumb and index finger and pushing it open a little ways, then your thumb takes over. You don't really need a thumbstud or bladehole(have I mentioned before how pornographic these sound to me? There's a thing used in marine electronics called a "number-10 butt conector!
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) once you get used to it. I taught a friend to do this in under 15 minutes while he was half drunk. It's not hard(but he did manage to shave the thinest layer of skin off his thumb, it didn't even bleed). Anyway, this works even better when you're sober, and it's not even a problem when wet.

I still say quickdraws won't get you far in a fight.

Anyway, a little practice and they're no trouble at all.

Oh, I'm glad you didn't take offense. Still, I know I say things wrong and for that I do apologize. I try, but it's like scratching an itch, the more you resist, the worse it gets.
 
i love my buck 110 and use it as a kitchen knife. it is one of the only knives i have which i am able to sharpen up to "scary sharp" status. my custom blades of ATS-34 and BG-42 are just alot harder for me to return to that keen an edge although my sharpening skill is improving.
i really dig the weight and solid feel the 110 affords. and i t really is ridiculously cheap for such a good "user".

jason f.
 
Snickersnee, James,

I believe you might like this:
http://www.nidlink.com/~moongazer/leather_art.html

Scroll down towards the bottom to an item called Quickdraw Sheath. I've seen a better picture elswere on the 'net with video clip but I can't find it again. They can be made for just about any knife including the 110.

Isn't funny how we stray from the original post?
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Dave, I appreciate your letting me know about something I might be intrested. It's comforting to know that somewhere somebody out there is thinking about me.
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Seriously though, I'm just of the opinion that folders fold so you can put them in your pocket and don't need a sheath. If I'm gonna carry a sheath, I'd just rather it be carrying a fixed-blade.

Thanks anyway! It's the thought that counts!
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Why does everybody always talk about the 110 and not the Gerber LST? I have both and I think they are both good knives, but I prefer to carry the LST because it is lighter and the handle shape is better. What are the results of the spine whack test on either of these knives?
 
I have a sentimental soft spot for the 110, but the most common folders I see are Spydercos.
 
I might be in the market for a new 110. Anyone know what kind of steel they use for the newer ones?
 
I think the newer models use 420HC, or 425"modified". Something like that. Along the lines of .50 to .75 percent carbon. IIRC/AFAIK, Buck used to use 440A. Having owned older and new blades from Buck, I much preferred the older blades (early 80's or late 70's). I just wish I had nabbed one of the Master Series 110's when they were available, and I could afford it. The biggest problem with the Bucks is they are GREAT reliable, simple designs, slaved to lower quality steel than is currently available. IMO.

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Work hard, play hard, live long.
Outlaw_Dogboy

 
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