Preventing tang rubs

R

Randy3000

Joined
Jun 3, 2017
Messages
811
Here is a knife i cobbled together from mishaps (nail nick is awful looking, bone is very different coloration on each side), ignore the poor finish as this knife will be thrown in the tackle box and abused.

What irks me though is the rub on the tang. I mostly make 2 blade 1 spring knives and havent had much of an issue with this.

Everything was straight before assembly, after assembly everything seems to have stayed straight. The rub on the other side is identical in appearance to this side. How does this happen and how can i prevent it?

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On my 2 blade knives i relieve the catch bit, but not the other side. I didnt understand the purpose of relieving catch bit, i thought it was to help the kick/tang slip past the bit (not catch on the catch bit). Not really sure how to relieve liners on a single blade without making a gap on the backside. I guess before attaching the scales i could bend the liner slightly and touch it on the belt sander platten? I am not opposed to using washers but it is just another thing to order online.
 
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My dremel is dying. For months i could hand spin it to start it up, but now when i fool with it for a few minutes and finally get it started it is varying rpm while running so much i cant use it. I know motors getting power while not moving burns them out due to no back emf to prevent extreme current going through them. Anyways, i have a vertical holder for it i use to rough out scales for inlays.

I will pick up a flex shaft and rig up a vertical holder for it. I should be able to cut the relief using that set up i think. I always just did it on the sander (for catch bits) and it was always a little nerve racking but messing up a catch bit is no biggie. Messing up liners is painful, so i need something reliable.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
What is a "catch bit?"
Click to expand...

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/what-is-a-catch-bit.699278/

For a 2 blade 1 spring knife, there are 4 main ways to make it happen, by my count. I feel out of place, i am not trying to give knife lessons i am still a newb. Thicknesses given are adjuatable of course.

1) 3/32" back spring with 3/32" blades with about half their thickness ground off. Asymmetrical grinds are essential. This method looks right only if plunge grind goes almost all the way to the run up. Blades can be no longer than handle length minus the tang length of the other blade.

2) 3/32" back spring with relieved liners and 1/16" crinked blades.

3) 3/32" back spring with 1/16" blades and catch bits to take up the 1/32" space on one side of each blade. These blades can be full length unlike method 1). A muskrat is a common pattern to use this method.

4) 3/32" back spring with 3/32" master blade and one short 1/16" blade with a catch bit. The master blade can be full length due to the catch bit on the small blade. A half whittler is a good pattern for this.
 
If you have an electro etcher or ferric chloride you can mask off the pivot area with a resist and etch the relief in.
 
I done this the way Alan describes for a couple of years before I got a mill, after getting
one those problems went away.
Ken.
 
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