Pricing your work?

...This paragraph always falls on deaf ears...

That's not true, bud. Some of us are listening.

Regarding time spent... auto mechanics have a handy dandy guide that tells them how long any given job should take, that's how they set their estimates. When I worked as a press operator, each job was quoted based on X minutes for each roll change, X minutes to set up each deck, X hours for run time, etc. The idea is to give your customer a reasonable cost while not screwing yourself. It works reasonably well most of the time. Of course, sometimes unforseen things happen and you eat the job.

Having said all that, if I ever figure out how to apply that concept to knifemaking, I'll let you know. There are a lot of variables involved. And, as others said, it takes me a heckuva lot longer to make a knife than it really should. So I'm basically working for free right now... call it a training period, I guess.

Someone mentioned doubling materials costs... that seems reasonable to me.
 
starting out if you can get back cost of materials, that's pretty good. Don't forget belts, glues, pin stock, shipping fees, drill bits, machine wear and tear. That all matters and adds up.
After that and you start to move a few, consider charging $2 or $3 an hour and then look at the total price to make sure you aren't charging for a 30 hour knife that should really only take 10. Add a dollar an hour increase for each 10 knives after that until you get to $10 and hour and pause. Repeat the process until you hit a point where they slow down selling quickly. If your knives sell in under a month, you're probably OK. If they sell in 1 day, you are too low. If it takes months to sell it, you are too high - even for the highest end knives. All an opinion of course. There is lot's of ways of pricing that are perfectly correct.
 
I'm a complete newb maker but for my good friends I would give it to them. I would be excited that they wanted one.
 
Charge what you feel is fair and depends on how good a friend he is . If he has a hot wife maybee just swap lol
 
I usually don't post on these threads, since there is no real answer. But, since the tone of this thread is pretty much level headed, I'll add my thoughts;

Comparing knife making to mechanics, electricians,machine shop fees, and plumbers is a waste of time. Those jobs require a previously trained professional who has already done his learning.They require years of training, and a large amount of equipment. That is what you are paying for. They are also required to meet certain standards of performance ( codes and tolerances), which even up the field.... and you pay for that.
Anyone who sharpens a lawn mower blade on a bench grinder,and wraps tape around the handle is a knifemaker. There is no way to decide what the knife should be worth.

Hours spent on a knife will only apply if you are a full time ( or nearly so) maker and work on a steady rate ,usually on multiple knives.Spending 10 hours making a knife is only worth consideration if everyone who makes that knife would spend ten hours doing it. Time on a knife is hands on time, BTW, and should not count time in etch, ovens,etc. When I say to a customer that it took me two years to make a sword, I don't mean that I have 17,500 hours in it. There may be well over hundred hours spent in forging, shaping, togi, etc., and I will consider that, but applying a shop rate, say $20/hr, would make the sword worth far less than its value. Conversely, a fillet knife I make with one hours work is worth far more than $20 plus about $30 in material. The fact that I price the sword at $5000 and the fillet knife at $100 is based more on their value to the buyer than their value as a product.

Materials are worth consideration in pricing. No point selling a dollar bill for 75 cents. In the beginning, the "twice materials" recommended earlier, is a good guideline. Beyond that , you have to decide what other worth the knife has.

Experience is priceless......but you pay mostly for that single feature in a knife. It is a rare person who walks into the knife selling business and gets $1000 for a bowie or hunter. I have seen knives at a show that were absolutely stunning, and priced very low, that the maker couldn't sell.....while two tables down Joe D. Knifemaker was selling a so-so camp knife for $800. That was because people want names more than quality in buying a knife. If all they wanted was a usable knife, they would shop at K-mart ( where many do shop for knives).

To set a price for a knife, you will have to figure what it is worth. A simple blacksmith knife ,like the photo, can be made in about 30 minutes work and the finish is very basic. I usually see those sell at fairs and such for around $30-40 tops. Making a little bit nicer knife ( a hunter or fillet knife), meant to be used, usually gets a starting figure of $75-100.

Have fun.....this hobby is not about economics. If you want to make money, find a different trade.
Sell a knife for enough to make you feel good, and enough to make a couple more. For years I used to figure if I made enough to make two new knives, it was a good deal.

You will rarely ,if ever, make enough to pay for the tools and supplies you buy for this hobby. But with continued growth and improvement you can more easily afford to buy more and better tooling, and that will make you happy ( big boys love their new toys) .

Have fun
Work safe
Feel the joy when you sell a knife that you are proud to say you made.
Don't accept any less from yourself than what you are capable of.

Stacy
 
This is probably the most level-headed thread on its subject I've read so far. Thanks for everyone for their valued input. Emre, particular thanks to you for practicing and voicing an ethic that it seems to me knifemakers embody better than many other trades - fairness. It's one of the things that makes me proud to be a member of the knifemaking community. Gold Star day my friend. :thumbup:

In his advice to new makers, the late, great Bob Engath suggested charging 3-4 times the cost of materials. When I made my first knives, there was no way I was willing to charge that much! But I worked up to it. The following is going to be long-winded, so you can stop reading here if you want. The rest is purely a description how I approach this subject. I think Tracy's approach is spot-on too; the closest I've ever heard to how I try to do it.

---

I've always looked at prices of the knives selling here and locally in those occasional venues where handmade knives are available, to help set the value of my own knives. Critically comparing the quality of my work with that of others has gone a long way toward helping me get better, and I constantly see more areas for improvement. The prices of those knives set a baseline for my own pricing.

I'm by no means an experienced maker; I work very slowly in very few hours per week. I've made a few over 100 knives and probably sold 80 of them. The only knives I've sold were those that exhibited the best work I could produce at the time. There are a number of those unsold knives still lurking around here because they included mistakes I should not have made - bolsters out of alignment, etc. Those become my test knives.

Recently I've had occasion to price several knives at once for an upcoming knife show (first one). But some background. My paying job is building spreadsheets for evaluating loan portfolios and pricing individual loans. I'm analytical by nature and training, and it should come as no surprise that I do most of my "thinking" in spreadsheets. ;) When I want to organize some information, I fire up a spreadsheet to do it.

I keep a logbook of my shop time. Hours worked, what I was doing, materials used, new belts, saw blades, etc. I generally don't log design time, because I do that during all the hours I'm not in my shop. :D When new material comes in, for example bolster stock, I record the per-inch cost on the stock itself, and use that information to build up the cost of a project. Most of my inventory of material has its original cost written on it.

So when it came time to try to put prices on these knives, I built a spreadsheet listing all the direct costs of the knives - steel, handle material, pin/bolster stock, belts used, cost of leather, etc. One of the knives used 4 1/2 feet of pin stock! :D I did not include any depreciation on tools or cost for my space, insurance, etc. I'd have that anyway. ;)

Then I made a section recording as best I could (because I usually work on several projects at a time, all in different stages of completion) the time spent on each knife. In my logbook I sometimes record parenthetically the time spent on a particular aspect of a certain knife, for example the time fitting the guard on that knife. That helped, but there was still some grey area for dividing up my hours. In the end, the total time for each knife "looked" about right.

I added up the direct costs, which gave me a minimum charge. Then I totaled the hours I'd spent on each knife, including the time making a sheath. Basically all the time from scribing the pattern on the steel to sharpening the knife before it went in the sheath for the last time.

That is an eye-opener! :D

From the experience of charging what I think my knives are worth compared to other's work, I've learned that I usually make between $7 and $10 per hour for my shop time. So I made three rows in my spreadsheet, for $7, $10 and $12 per hour, that calculated what my price would be at that wage including the cost of materials and supplies for each knife. (All that may sound ridiculous to most of you guys, but for me analyzing data in a spreadsheet is almost as much fun as making a knife. :))

That was my guideline for setting prices. None of them earned $12 per hour; most are in the $10 range but a couple did not seem like they were worth that much; one of them is only a small multiple of the direct cost. Note that I did not use my time to set a price; I only tried to learn what my time was worth for a particular knife. That's information for the future too.

Now, I've always recognized the rule of thumb that if your knives sell too fast you're underpriced and if too slow overpriced. I've never been able to keep any unsold knives, but I would be uncomfortable charging more than I have. I set my prices for these (based on direct cost, considering my workmanship for each knife, and with an eye toward time invested) according to what I've sold similar knives for in the past. Yet I look at those prices and feel a great deal of uncertainty whether they're worth it in the actual knife market. That's what this show is going to tell me. Honestly, I'm really nervous about this whole thing. Maybe I'll just stay home.

(Just kidding! :D)

But pricing is a very hard thing to do, because it's so subjective - regardless how I try to make it objective for guidance/informational purposes. Even so, using some rigor to know my investment in each knife helped me to set my prices.

---

Jeremy I agree with others, I think your knife might sell between $30-$60 if you include a sheath. By my reckoning, that should net you between $2-$5 per hour. Better than flipping burgers, since you pay no taxes and enjoyed the work. ;)
 
I have been acused of selling my knives underpriced and I agree. Having said that, the one thing I must add to this thread is that this is art in some ways. I go beyond the user knife that ranges from 30.00 to a 100.00. That is where the art starts as in the more expensive knives. The more expensive the knife, the fewer buyers. So as several have mentioned, get your knives out there so others can see your work and build a reputation. This is where I feel I am. I can't begin to price my knives on time as if I make a mistake and have to backup and re-pair, it is my fault. Materials only come into play if it is excotic such as ivory etc. Basic materials such as wood handle, basic steel (10x or 5160 etc) are just part of it. Now going back to the art. If I make a knife that is truly beautiful, then it is a higher priced blade such as a fine art object. One thing I have found out, everyone wants to feel that they got a good deal. Now, no-one needs to take my advice as I give none on this subject but being a fulltime maker, the bills must be paid. Jerry Fisk once said at a class I attended yrs ago, "If your in this business to make good money, then you are in the wrong business".
 
Dan, I meant that your knives are underpriced for the value of the knife being bought. If I had the money I'd be scooping them up because in 3 years I'd get a nice return on them. It was never meant to be an insult but to not get confused by trying to price their knives by you or Patton's work.
 
Thank you everyone for all of this great advice. It has really opened my eyes.

As far as giving it away, I have given away around two dozen knives now. It was getting to the point where friends were just basically taking them once I completed them, so I felt I needed to sell one just to be able to buy supplies.

I did sell it, and I sold it for enough that I should be able to make three more of the same style. After what was said here I just couldn't charge for my time so price was based strictly on materials used.

Thanks again everyone.
 
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