Primitave friction folder

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Dixieblade57

Joined
Jun 20, 2007
Messages
1,361
I am getting ready to build a primitive style friction folder. I will most likelly use a deer antler for the handle! Any suggestions on how to figure out the pivot point.
My thoughts are to decide on the chunk of antler and make cardboard cut out of it and the knife. Maybe this way I can define the pivot without screwing up the real thing!
I am also a little worried about making the cut for the blade to fold out of. It needs to be tight enough not to be sloppy, but still allow the blade to open and close freely! I am not sure what I want to use to make this cut! Should there be spacers between the blade and the antler?
As this will be not only my first primitave friction folder it will be the only folder I have built to date, I would appreciate any thoughts or advice you all may have on this subject!!!!!!
 
Google friction folder and check some out they are all different as to where the pivot is.
If you want primitive it is just that a blade a pin and a piece of handle material most that i have seen the tightness of the pin piening is how you adjust how sloppy it is and how easy it opens and closes. The cardboard mock up is a good idea.

Bob
 
I have done a ton of these and still continue just a little fancier.When doing the antler style I typically place the pivot in the center of the antler about 1/2" back from the end. The antler controls the blade shape and size, so making a template out of cardboard or file folder is a good idea.I also shape the blade and tail to match the contour of the antleras it looks much better.

I make the cout out on the anter using a Dremel with two fiberglass reinforced wheels stacked on the mandrel. Patience is key so you don't cut too deep on the rear( where the blade tip resides when folded)of the antler. You can then clean up the cut with needle and riffler files. Spacers aren't absolutely necessary but I use a bronze bushing on my pivots and make stainless washers (.003").These make for a very smooth action. And yes tightness is controled by peening the pivot pin so a light touch is needed.

The tail can be forged to lay on the top for a stop or can be drilled and pinned.I have also split the handle and used a backspacer notched to accept the tail.Now primative folders have a few differences, the construction techniques are pretty much the same. I hope this helps and enjoy it as these are great fun to make.Dave:)


Here's a few of mine you look at.

frf01.jpg


frfgroup.jpg



MBfolder8.jpg
 
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Wow! Damn I like those. Probably a tad more to the modern than I am thinking with this one but man I like those!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the info and the looksee.:cool:
I almost forgot to tell you till I went back to drool at the pics again. I really like those sheaths too. That ones with inlay of snakeskin give me some ideas!
 
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The bottom one DC posted is unbelievably SMOOTH when flippin. He does killer work !
 
wow those pics are great ,i made a friction folder out of a old leatherman knife blade <not from there tool but a pockect knife>anyway i used a brass screw with the head cut off in the back under the blade for support and i made it like a sheathkinfe first and then cut my slot and pinned it so the fit was great i dont no if it was proper to do it this way but it worked good it kind of looks like a little soduster with a thumb stud i like it ,just not a lock back,
 
These are the only type I make so far, and only on an occasional basis. I start the slot with a 1/8" metal cut off blade mounted in a bench grinder, then finish with a Dremel. This one is about a four inch blade.
wicksknives027_640x480.jpg

wicksknives028_640x480.jpg
 
Wow, LRB your work is just awsome!
Does anyone know how long after you strighten an antler you can let it out of the press and it will retain it's new shape? I googled straigthening an antler since I can no longer use our search feature and it lead me right back here to the Bladeforum. Small world, anyway it says to boil for at least 20 minutes and there was mention of someone using vinegar as a soak. The post said that didn't work well but someone else said something about putting the vinegar in the water. So anyway I got my pot and threw in the antler and about 1/4 cup of vinegar and let it boil for about 25 minutes. I had already placed two boards in my vice with the antler to get vice ready for clamping.
After fishing the antler from the boiling water I slapped it between the boards and put in the vice and begin to tighten. I should say at this point I have tried this before with less than satisfactory results. One thing I don't think I let the antler boil long enough and I didn't use any vinegar, and I may have released it too soon!
This time I used the old (break, bust or bleed method)somthings got to move here.:eek: When I first started cranking on the vice it didn't seem to have alot of effect. Figuring I nothing to lose here, except the antler. I begin to really crank down on it and low and behold it begins to move and went all the way to flat! Hot damn it works!!!! Now, I really don't know how long to hold it there for dry time!! Any ideas, anyone?:confused:
 
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well this is not near as good as the other pics but i guess i have to start somewere ,this is the knife i was talking about befor,i was pleased with it.
index.cfm
 
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