Primitive d-guard duelling bowie knife for sale

Feedback: +29 / =0 / -0
Joined
Jul 2, 2005
Messages
762
381916750.jpg

381916756.jpg

381916755.jpg

381916752.jpg
381916754.jpg

381916871.jpg

381916872.jpg

381916874.jpg


It's 18" overall with a 1095 blade
12. 7/8" X 1. 11/16" X 1/4" thick (3/8" at the bladecatchers).
The guard, bolster, pommel and bladecatcher sides are 1018
welded to the full tang.
The handle is 4. 3/4" long with scales of Curly Maple.
This one has 4" of finger room inside the guard.
It weighes 29oz.
The sheath is 10oz. leather. The beltloop has a cut out
to secure it to a pant's beltloop and attachment loops
on the front for legties.

SOLD

Thanks for looking,
Mike
 
Last edited:
I really really like your work. All of them. But I'm not where you'd normally sell to. But love your style and your knife pics makes good knife porn :)

Question... I would expect rivets but you normally do not use rivets I think. Why so? I believe many people still like rivets (worried scales will come off even if the scales are strongly attached) and it would be a great addition.

Keep up the good work.

PS: you should set up a webpage with your various models.
 
This one just sold.

The scales are attached by drilling holes through
the tang for epoxy to flow through.
The surface of the tang is roughened.
I use a mixture of marine grade expanding epoxies
and clamp the scales for 24 hrs. Then they're
shaped. Test pieces were frozen, thawded, and
heated repeatedly, put in a vise and beaten with
a mallet. The mated surfaces held in all my tests.
If it wasn't strong enough, I'd have machine bolts
threaded into the tang. No need !!!

Thanks for looking,
Mike
 
Mike,
Just saw this one and did not see the selling price. My wife has fallen in love with it. Sending an PM.
Terry
 
That is awesome.

That is seriously one of the coolest knives I have seen in a long time. Between the base design and the finish, it is clearly greater than the sum of it's parts.

And, because of it's length, it's not completely useless. (a fate which often plagues bowie style knives, I think)
 
This one just sold.

The scales are attached by drilling holes through
the tang for epoxy to flow through.
The surface of the tang is roughened.
I use a mixture of marine grade expanding epoxies
and clamp the scales for 24 hrs. Then they're
shaped. Test pieces were frozen, thawded, and
heated repeatedly, put in a vise and beaten with
a mallet. The mated surfaces held in all my tests.
If it wasn't strong enough, I'd have machine bolts
threaded into the tang. No need !!!

Thanks for looking,
Mike

That is definately more than adequate :)

Parlicularly like your resin one-piece poured handles. Your pieces are so unique and rugged, I like it v.much :)
 
Thanks for the replies.
When I make the holes in the tang
I heat the steel and drive a hexagon
rod in to open a seat for a 1/4" nut.
If scales needed to be replaced at any
time in the knifes life, nuts can be inserted
and new scales easily attached.
Getting the old scales off ? Now that
would take some doing.
 
Hey there Mike, wondering if you are still making these knives? I am interested and want to know the cost. Also do you ship to Canada?
 
Back
Top