Primos/Wheeler Collaboration Bowie

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Jan 27, 2000
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615
A while back Nick Wheeler and I began discussing the possiblity of doing a collaborative effort. We both have been quite busy with orders, but the idea certainly stayed in the back of my mind.

After several emails and phone calls we decided that our collaboration piece would be a Damascus Bowie in the 8" to 8 1/2" blade length range. Rather than pin each other down with specifics we decided to just let each other be creative.

In the end we decided that I would make the Damascus, then forge, grind, heat treat, test, and etch the blade. Nick's job would be to design and create the guard and handle, and ferrule and buttcap if applicable. Nick will also be taking care of etching our names in the ricasso. Our names will face opposite ends of the knife. That way it won't look like one guy has top billing by having his name on top.

We each have free roam of the project. This gives both of us the opportunity to decide what we think looks good and go with it. So when the project is complete, I will be just as surprised as everyone else. I really like that idea.

We also decdided to document the project as best we could. Documenting with photos can be quite difficult when one is running a one shop, but we will do the best we can.

The blade style I decided on was a Southwestern styled Bowie. The Damascus pattern would be a tight raindrop. I was unable to get a shot of the blade actually being forged from the billet, but here's a shot of the blade after being forged pretty much to shape.

normalize.jpg


In this shot I am in the process of normalizing the blade. The next photo will show a step I do between normalizing and annealing. This may take some folks aback.

quench1.jpg


In the shot above I have brought the blade up into the "critical" range where Austenite forms and am doing a full quench to transform the crystalline structure of the steel to Martensite. In other words I am hardening the blade. The reason for this is simple. I do a lot of hand work, so I want the steel as soft as I can get it.

Huh? Bear with me. To get the steel in it's absolute softest state I do a spheroidizing anneal. This is a sub-critical anneal where the carbides are pooled up into little spherical globules, leaving larger areas of softer ferrite. This makes the steel much easier to grind, sand, file, drill, etc. as opposed to annealing to Pearlite. As it happens, the steel will respond more readily from Martensite than from Pearlite when doing this sub-critical anneal. Later on when I do the actual final hardening of the blade, the steel will be allowed to soak long enough for the carbides to redisperse themselves evenly back into the matrix.

Some of the resident metallurgists may correct me on the terminology or what's actually going on in the steel, and that's fine. A rose by any other name would smell as sweet. I'm more interested in the result than the verbage. The method I used was borrowed from information from Howard Clark, for which I am eternally grateful.
 
Another thing I like about this type of anneal is that it's reasonably quick. It does not require a long, slow, all night thing. The blade was brought to 1300 degrees F. and held for an hour or two. After that, the cooling rate is not much of a big deal as best I can tell. I mean I wouldn't take it out and quench it in water, but it seems to be fine to just remove the blade and let it cool on it's own accord.

After the blade cooled I gave it a good going over with a stiff wire brush, and proceeded to clean it up at the grinder.

grinding.jpg


In the shot above I'm cleaning up the blade and giving better definition to the ricasso shoulders with a 36 grit belt. After this the blade was gone over with a 120 grit J-Flex, and finally a 220 J-Flex. I don't have a variable speed grinder, so 220 is finest belt I have. From 220 I switch to hand rubbing and take the blade to a 320 grit (sometimes 400) hand rubbed finish. I use a non-scaling compound for the heat treating, so usually the blade will not see the grinder again except for grinding the clip and rolling a convex edge for testing.

quenched.jpg


cleaned.jpg


The two shots above show the blade immediately after hardening. The black crap on the top shot is the remainder of the anti-scale compound. The blade was edge quenched to leave the ricasso and the spine softer. This will allow Nick do whatever he needs to do to the back of the ricasso (for fitting the guard), and to tweak the tang.

The second shot shows the blade after it was cleaned up in boiling water. The boiling water dissolves the remaining compound.
 
tempering.jpg


After cleaning, the blade is placed in a preheated oven for the tempering process. This mix on this Damascus is 1084 and 15n20. I temper this mix in the neighborhood of 460 - 475 degrees F. Some folks might think that's too high, but in my experience with my methods, this gives me the best results. When I switched to a commercial quench I found that my blades were getting harder and needed a higher tempering temperature to prevent any micro chipping. Every blade is tested. It's the only way to send one out with confidence.

After the tempering process it's time for testing. This is the time that I grind the clip and roll a convex edge.

temp_edge.jpg


As you can see in the shot above, I have ground the clip and have started convexing the edge. The belt in this case is J-Flex. Normally for doing the convex edge I would prefer to use a stiffer belt. My favorite is 3M 60 micron belts with a stiff (Mylar?) backing, but on this day I didn't have one. Using the J-Flex belts can be a bit testy. They have a lot of give and can have the tendency to bow at the edges. This bowing can be bad news. It will dish out more in the center of the belt which in effect will give you and accidental recurved blade. You have to pay close attention.

Not that you don't have to take care with the 3M 60 microns of course, but for a different reason. These thin stiff backed belts will literally cut you up like a meat saw if you accidentally touch the edge. It will introduce you to a whole new realm of pain. I don't care how tough you are, when one of those things slice you down to the bone in a nanosecond, you will scream like a little girl.
 
Now it's time for testing. Here's a group shot showing some of the tests that were done on this blade.

tests.jpg


To check for a keen edge and good geometry I fileted a business card. The idea is cut a slice off the face of the business card without cutting through the card. Another good test is to make thin slices from a piece of newsprint. Yet another good test which I did not do on this particular blade is to make a clean slice through a cigarette paper.

After the finnesse type cuts were done I moved on to tougher tests. First I hacked on some pine knots, then chopped on a piece of seasoned oak from the firewood pile. Other good tests are chopping up multiple 2x4's, chopping on a landscaping timber, and chopping on baseball bat (Ash?).

The final test was to slice up some 1" hemp or sisal rope. Then the edge is thoroughly inspected for any damage. This one passed everything, so it was time to finish up the blade. It was hand rubbed to 600 grit, then etched to bring out the raindrop pattern. Here's the finished blade:

finished.jpg


This blade has been shipped to Nick Wheeler for completion.
 
Who's this Wheeler guy???


VERY COOL Terry!!! :D

I can tell you all, this is a VERY pretty blade, with wonderful lines!

I am planning on doing the handle shortly after the BAKCA show (Aug 27-28) and will hold up my end of the pics and description.

I'm not sure if it's okay for me to say so, but I think this is going to be one sweet knife :)

Thanks Terry!!!

-Nick-
http://www.wheelerknives.com
 
Wow - what a great idea! That blade shape is super-sweet Terry, and the damascus pattern is stunning. I look forward to seeing the rest of this one unfold. VERY cool. :eek:

Roger
 
So far that's looking like a real winner of a Bowie.

Is this up for grabs when complete?
 
Terry,

Thanks a bunch. Not only is the blade obviously beautiful, but you teach us other makers a lot with these types of photos and information.

May I ask what quenchant you have switched to, and at what temperature?

Thanks,

John Frankl
 
What a winning combination, Primos and Wheeler. Great looking blade Terry. Can't wait to see the finished piece. :thumbup:
Scott
 
I love threads like this. . . .keeps me in a perpetual state of awe-struckedness. Is there such a term ? :p If there isn't - - - there is now ! :D

It never fails to amazed me how the etching brings out the eye grabbing damascus (from what appears to be a satin-finished blade).

Stunning in its current state and I can't wait to see the end result ! :)


:thumbup: :thumbup:
 
That is going to be a beautiful beast!! Like others have said -- I love these kind of threads! :thumbup:
 
Is that baby sold already? Otherwise, add my name to the list... :eek:
 
Thank you so much for the kind words guys. Like everyone else, I'm really looking forward to seeing what Nick comes up with. I know it will be a killer job whatever direction he decides to go with it.

John Frankl said:
Terry,

Thanks a bunch. Not only is the blade obviously beautiful, but you teach us other makers a lot with these types of photos and information.

May I ask what quenchant you have switched to, and at what temperature?

Thanks,

John Frankl
John, it's Chevron 70 heated to about 140 degrees F.
 
Two of my favorite makers playin' Tag Team!!!! :D

Can't wait to see the finished product... Nick - ya up for a visitor??? LOL!!!!
:cool:
 
Joe, you're always welcome for a shop visit! You know that!!! :cool:

Thanks for all the kind words folks :D
-Nick-
 
Move to Joe-Ja, Nick. I'll be your permanent shop sweeper, cleaner-upper. :D
 
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