Problem with liners...

autogateman

autogateman

Rod Braud
Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Messages
180
Hey guys, I've been having a problem with liners on my fixed blades separating ever so slightly from the tang after the scales have been profiled to shape. I drill lightening holes and rough up liner and tang, and make sure everything lines up and is flat. It doesn't seem to happen until the finish sanding is done on the handle. Any pointers? Is the grinder pulling the scale away? I'm talking a couple thousandths, but enough to see with the naked eye.
Thanks
Rod
 
Are they glued on when you do this? I've found the fibre liners tend to roll the edges when rough shaping, and if you don't deburring it there will be a gap after epoxying it on
 
in order for the liner to pull away, the scale must move away first ? what scale material are you using, if its wood it should have 5-8% moisture content other wise it will curl, shrink or expand.
 
Are you talking a gap or a glue line? I've had a glue line between the liner and scale from not taking the rolled edge off the liner, but an actual gap would likely be either a material or adhesive issue.
What type of liner material are you using?
 
I've had mild separation with the vulcanized fiber liners. I won't use the stuff anymore. You can get some superglue in those tiny cracks to seal it up and reduce further problems (and re-sand the tang), but it kinda sucks. G10 is more expensive, but about as stable as you could wish for.
 
The only liners that I have used are blue G10 on a couple of knives and that stuff worked like a charm. I did all to the profiling and a bit of the shaping before glue up, especially in the areas where I would be grinding the liner, so that might make a difference.
 
Ok thanks for the replies guys, I'll get some pics up when I get back to the house. This is happening with G10 liners , as well as the fiber ones. I use CA glue to glue my liners to the scales. I only used stabilized materials for scales or g10. I use g flex for my epoxy.
 
How are you making or checking for flatness? Are you using mechanical fasteners in addition to the glue?
 
I'm wondering if I'm actually getting it hotter than I think I am during sanding and making the adhesive come loose.
 
Well if you are using 36-50 grit to prep the tang and the liners, cleaning with Denatured alcohol and then rubbing hard with clean clean cloth to insure no contamination and they are lifting off, chances are you starved the joint while clamping and it lets loose with the heat from sanding.

With CA light pressure is needed. Only enough pressure to starve the joint of air, that is what activates the glue. Then it still needs to sit for a hour to get to full strength.

I use activator to get things moving along but still wait a good while before taking a belt grinder to it.
 
It's strange bc I've never had a problem with liners separating from the scales. That's what's making me think I'm over heating the CA glue.
 

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you mentioned the liners separating from the scales, but in your photo, the space looks to be between the liners and tang. i have a feeling those spaces are there the whole time, and you do not notice it until finish sanding.
 
Are you flattening the liners as well as the scales and tang? I know at least with fibre liners they aren't always perfectly flat.
I found it to be helpful to glue the liners to the scales, then flatten the liners once they are on the scales. The lumps on them can be noticable on some sheets if you try sanding flat.
 
john april said:
you mentioned the liners separating from the scales, but in your photo, the space looks to be between the liners and tang. i have a feeling those spaces are there the whole time, and you do not notice it until finish sanding.
Click to expand...

Sorry I meant separating from the tang. I've never had them separate from the scales.
 
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