problem with lock in Paramilitay 2

C

Codename 47

Joined
Jan 3, 2010
Messages
46
When you open the spring lock is fixed so tightly that it can hardly be overcome. And you have to make a push with your finger, help solve the problem. I really like the knife, but this problem is greatly upsets me.


[video=youtube;h4c30uCPTiQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4c30uCPTiQ[/video]
 
Rubbing the point of a pencil against the part of the blade that contacts the lock might help. Pencil lead is graphite, which is a good dry lubricant.

The problem will probably solve itself after you have unlocked it a few times.
 
i dunno for sure, yours looks alittle tight, but on my superleaf it got better with time, and i also use my thumb
 
I honestly do not know how to solve this problem, I think it's manufacturing defect. I've seen other PM 2, they work just fine, but my no. I have a knife for several months, and the castle began to work only gets worse. I have a sore finger from the castle.
 
I hate it when I get sore finger from the castle.
I can't tell how hard you have to press to overcome the stickiness of the lock, but it will most likely get better over time.
I would give it said time and see. :thumbup:
 
Codename 47 said:
I honestly do not know how to solve this problem, I think it's manufacturing defect. I've seen other PM 2, they work just fine, but my no. I have a knife for several months, and the castle began to work only gets worse. I have a sore finger from the castle.
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Did you try using the pencil trick as suggested? Maybe loosen the pivot screws a little and then check the lock up. I do not see any problem with that knife, it locks up tight, the way it should. I would not want it to open too easy.
 
This bothers me. I have four Para 2's and the locks behave differently between all of them. I had a fifth but sold it...

The first one I bought is a regular black handle/satin blade and the lock sticks still to this day and I've played with it endlessly. Lock-up is early

My CF P2 had a sticky lock but playing with it has made it much better. Lock-up is early.

I got a black bladed model when they came out and the lock was very smooth. Lock-up was just passed center. I sold this one.

My digicam/ satin model has the smoothest lock I've felt so. Lock-up is very early.

Just received my Gray CTS-20CP and the lock is so smooth it doesn't even make a snap. Lock-up is early. The blade is slightly loose but I can't tighten it anymore.

I'm not bashing Spyderco in any way but with my limited experience buying knives, the foreign made models are the only flawless knives I have received and the Golden made models have had the F&F issues.

I don't mean to hijack the thread, I'm just relaying my experiences. It will most likely get better over time and after some sore finger tips.
 
What is a castle? So you have owned and used the knife for a couple months? If so did it just get tight all the sudden? Did you try the pencil lead trick? Some more info would help but I really doubt it is a manufacturing defect.

Edit: I guess you guys haven't had many frame lock knives. When a piece of metal wedges itself between other pieces of metal it can get sticky until the parts wear and get smooth. It's really common with framelock so doesn't surprise me that some compression locks get a little tight. I sure wouldn't call it a fit or a finish issue.
 
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my para2 was like that for the first couple weeks. then it broke in and now it is easy to disengage.
 
Codename 47 said:
Graphite has not helped, the knife is still very tight opening.
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I think we're getting some words mixed up here.
You look to be opening the blade with very little problems. It even appears that the pivot screws are extrordinarily loose on that knife. I have a Para2 CF/S90V in my pocket right now (it's a user) and mine is no where near that loose (unless I press the tab/castle). The other option I would recommend is washing the entire knife is warm soapy water, open and close it carefully a few dozen times. This will allow all the grit and other particles to wash out. Rise the knife, air dry it, reoil it and see if it still occurs. The other option is to send it back to Golden, CO and have them look at it. I'm telling you though, my knife does the same thing. The lock engages completely, and disengages with a little extra force. I would not call this a bad thing.
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
What is a castle? So you have owned and used the knife for a couple months? If so did it just get tight all the sudden? Did you try the pencil lead trick? Some more info would help but I really doubt it is a manufacturing defect.

Edit: I guess you guys haven't had many frame lock knives. When a piece of metal wedges itself between other pieces of metal it can get sticky until the parts wear and get smooth. It's really common with framelock so doesn't surprise me that some compression locks get a little tight. I sure wouldn't call it a fit or a finish issue.
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Assuming you are talking to me, I should have been more specific when I said I had f&f issues with my U.S. made Spydies. I wasn't only referring to the inconsistencies with the comp-locks:

-All three of my Manix 2 sprint runs have little gaps between the scales and the liners where they don't sit flush with each other.
-My regular Manix 2 had one of the jimping bumps broken off and the edge doesn't follow a smooth line towards the tip as if the last swipe on the sharpening wheel didn't make it to the tip.

I realize these are small details but f&f details no less. The Japanese and Taiwanese made Spydies I have are all flawless and I have U.S. made Spydies that are flawless as well. I was only stating that the only f&f issues I have had have been with U.S. made models. I'm not claiming to be a Spyderco expert and I realize they make thousands of knives and 100% perfection isn't realistic.
 
I've had good luck with the USA spydies, the Japanese ones.. well, I will buy no more knives in blister packs. Also, I'll buy from somewhere that I know will open the knife and notice anything that bad before sending it my way.
 
My Para 2 is exactly the same. I've tried everything. It doesn't really bother me too much though. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzE8Du1rSus

Edit: I just grabbed my Para 2 to get ready for tomorrow's EDC and it seems that it's gotten worse. Sounds crazy, I know. But I'll be damned if it isn't worse than before. The only thing I've done since the last time I carried it was washing it. I literally can't close it with my index finger.

Edit again: It appears it just needed some tweaking of the stop pin and pivot to get it back to the way it used to be; still sticky but bearable.
 
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Break Free CLP has worked well for me on sticky actions on firearms as well as knives.It drys out leaving a film that won't attract dirt and grime.
 
ssblood said:
I've had good luck with the USA spydies, the Japanese ones.. well, I will buy no more knives in blister packs. Also, I'll buy from somewhere that I know will open the knife and notice anything that bad before sending it my way.
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I have six Japanese Spyderco's and none of them came in blister packs. I ordered them all from reputable dealers who are more than glad to inspect a knife for anyone.

Sorry, back to the original subject: When I got my first Para 2 the lock was incredibly sticky, to the point where it actually took quite a bit of strength to make it click and my finger tip was sore after a very short time. Sound familiar?

My solution was to find a small piece of flat plastic that I could use to comfortably depress the lock-tab down with without scratching the G-10 or the lock-tab. I can't for the life of me remember what I used but the method worked well. I would just sit down while watching tv and press the lock over and over. It was so sticky that even this became tiresome but since doing that and using it, it has gotten much better.

During that time, I had posted a thread about this same subject and someone told me not to use lube where the lock interfaces with the tab because it wouldn't wear correctly. This seemed to work for me.
 
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I have four para 2s. 2 black, 1 digi and 1 carpenter. They are all different when it comes to smoothness, lockup, blade play etc. It seems like there is a wide variation in the manufacturing tolerance from knife to knife. I have one para2 that I consider perfect but the other 3 have various defects related to the detent, lock or blade play. I am sending my cts-20cp model to CO tomorrow. The other knives have issues I can deal with but this one has an EXTREMELY strong detent and no matter how tight I make the pivot/stop pin there is blade play. I love the para2. I carry one with me everyday. I just wish there was more consistency from knife to knife. It would be nice to order one and feel confident that everything will be ok when you get it. If I buy another I will only buy it at a store where I can get my hands on it first.
 
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