Problem with Military dropped

C

Crocodilo

Joined
Jun 15, 2006
Messages
162
A couple of days ago I dropped my D2 Millie on the stone kitchen floor, from 3 feet high. The knife was open, and landed tail first. No damage to the blade on the bounces, but something started to rattle in it, when shaken.

A closer look revealed that the lanyard metal "tunnel" had released from the one of the G10 scales, and the metal spacer that surrounds the "tunnel" was loose, thereby rattling when shaken. The scales, if not pressed by hand, are perhaps about half a milimeter further apart than they should be, and this creates the play for the rattle.

I tried punching the hole with a philips screwdriver, to widen it's opening and press-fit it into the G10, but it doesn't hold. Next on my list to try is a drop of superglue, but I'm a bit concerned that if I overdo it, the scales may be permanentely glued through the pole, making later disassembly impossible.

Any suggestions? This is the first time I've had a problem with a Millie, and sending it to the factory is totally out of the question.

As it is, function is not affected at all, but the rattling is kind of annoying... Dang, my brand new D2... :(
 
do you mind if I ask why a trip to the factory is totally out of the question? Warranty and repair has been nothing but good to me in the past. The turn around time is always fast, even when shipped from up here in Canada.

I'd give your superglue idea a shot. It can always be undone with a little help from dipping in some hot water for a while.
 
Portuguese customs is the key here: when I bought this knife, customs held it for four months, and a special police inspection was needed to authorize a "weapon import".
 
I usually remove the lanyard thing on most models I have owned.. they suck...
Your best bet is to take it apart properly....
Good luck

T-6 and T-10..
I have two of my old torx drivers you can have?
Matt
zerochance@sbcglobal.net
 
You mean actually remove the lanyard tube and spacer? Well, there's a thought! Don't you feel it adds up to the structural integrity of the knife?

I have taken the knife apart. The tube is only stuck to one of the scales, and the spacer is loose between them.

Thanks for the tool offer, no need for it. :thumbup:
 
:thumbup:No.. I didnt mean you should remove it.. Just repair it... On a knife like the ATR it can be fully removed... Because there is a spacer pin at the bottom of the handle.. On the military and para.. I just usually have to adjust it.. Put the knife back together and it usually goes away...:thumbup:
 
If it doesn't go away, short of sending it to Spyderco, try a super small amoung of clear silicone caulking to hold the tube sound. It will hold but still be removable and cleanable if needed.
 
My Superhawk came with the same problem. I'm working on taking it apart, but I think that they Loctite'd the screws. :mad: Might just sent it in. Amazing knife, but the rattle is annoying.
 
IDK if it's the same problem Josh. The OP dropped his Millie on a stone floor from 3 feet. If I were you I'd send your Superhawk back to Golden. Of course, I am assuming that it came that way out of box and was not dropped.
 
Josh K said:
My Superhawk came with the same problem. I'm working on taking it apart, but I think that they Loctite'd the screws. :mad:.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't know WHY they did that.
I had the screws strip on both my Superhawks when removing the screws from the compression pin. All I wanted to do was take it apart, clean it, and remove the annoyingly sharp edges on the liners.
Ended having to drill the screws out and retap, and the one compression pin just wouldn't co-operate at ALL.
So, now I have one Superhawk and spare parts for the $400 I shelled out.
At least the one I have together is PERFECT, as I mixed the best parts from each, but I'm still pretty pissed that I can't just get a new compression pin(It's made in Japan, so I can't get a new pin sent to me:mad:).
Why would the screws be set so they can't be removed? NONE of my other knives have had this issue, even my Benchmades where disassembly voids the warranty!
 
stabman said:
Yeah, I don't know WHY they did that.
I had the screws strip on both my Superhawks when removing the screws from the compression pin. All I wanted to do was take it apart, clean it, and remove the annoyingly sharp edges on the liners.
Ended having to drill the screws out and retap, and the one compression pin just wouldn't co-operate at ALL.
So, now I have one Superhawk and spare parts for the $400 I shelled out.
At least the one I have together is PERFECT, as I mixed the best parts from each, but I'm still pretty pissed that I can't just get a new compression pin(It's made in Japan, so I can't get a new pin sent to me:mad:).
Why would the screws be set so they can't be removed? NONE of my other knives have had this issue, even my Benchmades where disassembly voids the warranty!
Click to expand...

I sent mine in with a request to fix the rattle and the wire clip screw. Couldn't remove it, and I wasn't going to put more pressure that I had on it. Me likey non stripped scews. ;)
 
amen74 said:
IDK if it's the same problem Josh. The OP dropped his Millie on a stone floor from 3 feet. If I were you I'd send your Superhawk back to Golden. Of course, I am assuming that it came that way out of box and was not dropped.
Click to expand...

It's probably not, but it's a rattleing lanyard tube. Just sent that and two other knives back for some golden love. :D
 
I wouln't be afraid to take it apart either. You might consider silicone caulk as an alternative to Super Glue.
 
stabman said:
...Why would the screws be set so they can't be removed? NONE of my other knives have had this issue, even my Benchmades where disassembly voids the warranty!
Click to expand...

My guess is that Spyderco take the extra step of using Loctite on the screws. Is there a reason that you can't apply a needle tip soldering iron to the screw for a couple of seconds?
 
A.P.F. said:
My guess is that Spyderco take the extra step of using Loctite on the screws. Is there a reason that you can't apply a needle tip soldering iron to the screw for a couple of seconds?
Click to expand...

I don't own a soldering iron.:(
Also didn't know that was an option. I've never encountered a screw that was Loctited in so firmly that it would strip the screw-head when using a new torx bit.
Good to know for the future.
For now, I'm stuck with a busted $200 knife that I can't get a replacement compression pin for. Too bad, as it would otherwise be a good knife. Doesn't work so well when it's in a bunch of pieces.
 
stabman said:
I don't own a soldering iron.:(
Also didn't know that was an option. I've never encountered a screw that was Loctited in so firmly that it would strip the screw-head when using a new torx bit.
Good to know for the future.
For now, I'm stuck with a busted $200 knife that I can't get a replacement compression pin for. Too bad, as it would otherwise be a good knife. Doesn't work so well when it's in a bunch of pieces.
Click to expand...

That would be the red stuff. :mad:
 
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