Problem with new Buck 110?

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Feb 1, 2006
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Hi All,

I purchased a new Buck 110 that I received in the mail today. All of my others have come from Walmart, and were purchased between 2008-09. I had noticed that the wood on the newer Bucks seems a little nicer IMO, and I also wanted one with the leather sheath, so I ordered another. Well, it's pretty nice overall, but the tip of the knife protrudes above the scales when closed. I was thinking maybe it was just gunked up, and have been trying to clean it, but to tip of the blade still protrudes above the scale when in the closed position. Is there an easy fix that I'm overlooking, or should I send this knife back? Thanks for any suggestions. Doug
 
Where did you order it from?

Are we talking about a lack of snap or is it hitting something solid and wanting to go farther when it stops above the bolster?
 
BG42EDGE, I appreciate the quick response. The snap is fine, but when the blade comes to a rest in the closed postion, the very tip of the blade extends above the brass scale. I can run my finger up the brass from the bottom of the knife, and catch my finger on the blade tip. It could actually cut someone as it is. I can push down on the blade and force it in a little further, but then the lock on the reverse of the knife protrudes out on the back...not to mention it only stays in as long as I keep force on it. As soon as I release the force, it pops back up. Hope this makes sense.

Oh, and I ordered it from Amazon. They have an easy exchange policy if that is necessary. Just thought I'd ask here, before sending it back.
 
Well, wait for a response from someone who knows for sure and is better familiar with the inner workings.......but, from what I've heard in the past the blade stop can be filed down some to make things right.

There's a bump on the blade at the bottom of the ricasso and it hits the inside of the knife as a point of contact to keep the sharp edge from contacting anything.

Myself, I'd send it back, but you may be one who loves to tinker.

Also, you may want to work the knife open and closed a bunch of times just to see if a little wear makes it better and give it a light oiling or a blast of something like Rem-Oil.

As I said, wait for better info.......there may be more to this than I remember.

Good luck!
 
Thanks again for the info. I did clean it well, oil it, and opened and closed it a bunch to see if anything changed. No change. I thought about filing, but decided to just do an exchange. Amazon will send out another knife, and I have 30 days to return this one. I do appreciate the feedback.
 
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Thanks jb4570 for the info and the link. There was alot of gunk in the workings, but I think I've got it all cleaned out, so I think the "kick" that you mention is the problem. I've already asked Amazon for the exchange, and they are shipping a new one out, but I'll still take a look at the link and educate myself in case this happens again.
 
If you ever decide to lower a blade into the well by grinding the kick, just remember to go slow and check your progress often...a little bit off moves the tip a lot!
 
Yes, I just looked at the link (very helpful by the way), and the job looks easy. I think I'll wait and see what condition the new knife arrives in. If it's good, I'll make the switch. If it's the same, I'll do some light filing to get the blade to sit lower. I'll be sure to do as you recommend sitfyler. Who knows, maybe I'll just let Amazon bill me again and keep them both. Again, I appreciate all of the helpful comments.
 
A file won't help you much...it will just skip along the steel...a dremel with a small sanding drum works well...or a small grey grinding wheel...also a diamond coated sharpener could be used like a file...it's really not a tough job...but one that's easy to overdo and have the blade edge hitting the rocker bar if you go too far...good luck Doug...I think exchanging it was a good choice though...it's brand new after all...
 
A belt sander works best for this job,the kick is likely your problem,and its very easy to fix,its also easy to make worse.You need to go very slow taking a small amount of steel off at a time until the blade seats properly and no tip is sticking up past the handle.good luck!
 
I'll be sure to be careful if I do this, but right now as long as the new one comes in okay, I'm leaning toward just doing an exchange. Now if the new one comes in the same condition, I will most likely be giving the above a try.
 
ok,if you try it,mask the brass bolsters off with loys of tape in case the sander slips,it'll mess up brass quick....so i'm told.lol
 
This may be too obvious and yet bears repeating when doing a new and awkward task working on a knife--don't cut yourself.

As sharp as these new 110s show up out of the box.......you can do some serious damage in one thoughtless heartbeat.

:)
 
Gee BG, you forgot to tell him to post pics if he bleeds...:eek:

Should anyone not know what is being talked about here. An old pic from some long past thread.

bladetestb.jpg


And ignore the profile on the blade. Was just a photoshop game being played back then.
 
Hey, what's one more scar. If anyone could cut themselves doing this job, I'm sure i could.
 
Got my replacement 110 today, and it's okay. I can feel the very tip of the blade, ever so slightly above the scale, but I really have to feel for it (not noticable to the eye), and I don't think there is any danger of it being accidently opened. Not enough to notice unless your really looking for it. Besides I will only be carrying it in the leather pouch anyway. Interestingly both knives came in boxes marked 2-1-12, and both have 2011 tang stamps.
 
Just a tip on filing the kick down if you decide to..... put a couple of lengths of masking tape along the sharp edge of your knife and also on the brass bolster (or whatever material the bolster may be)....you will save the edge & bolster from getting damaged by your file and more importantly it will help to keep you from getting sliced if you inadvertently run your flesh into the battle area.... :->
 
I have to bring this to the top again to thank everyone for the info on how to fix the problem. I've had a 55 for quite sometime that had the same issue, a slightly exposed blade tip when closed.

After reading through this thread, I used one of the diamond sticks from my Sharpmaker and within a dozen or so strokes on the kick with it, bingo! No more exposed tip!
 
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