Problems with clamping Tsprof Kadet pro

[777 Edge]

Thanks a bunch!

No problem, if your preference is to finish a micro bevel with your 2K, then I would say only raise the angle 0.5 degrees (or less), and only use the weight of the stone for very few, very light passes. You might be raising it too high and using slightly too much pressure.

Give it a try and let me know how it goes.

 

[blades and sheaths]

You might be raising it too high and using slightly too much pressure.

I think you’re right. I’m raising the angle too high. In general I like the finish the 2k gives me. At least for some of my blades. For my AS and 1 HAP40 I sometimes go up to about 14/10 micron stone and then 4 micron CBN or Diamond strop.
I really like the edge I get from my AS this way.
Other blades like M390 I stop at around 28/20um for a toothy working edge. After I re-profiled my MT K294, I like to finish sharpening around 28/20um. My Endura K390 I like to finish around 2k though. Feels keen and still a bit toothy.

Of course, keep in mind that’s been my experience thus far, which means nothing, F… all.

I’m just trying out this micro or secondary bevel thing. I’ll try like you said and only raise the angle .5 degrees or so. Should be a nice slicer; K390 at 11 and 11.5 degrees.
If my main reason for a micro bevel is that there isn’t the smallest bit of burr left, how many light passes would you make? Edge leading or trailing?

Sorry for all the questions and thanks for still taking the time to answer questions.

Btw. I read somewhere on here that you designed your own sharpening system?

 

[777 Edge]

If my main reason for a micro bevel is that there isn’t the smallest bit of burr left, how many light passes would you make? Edge leading or trailing?

Try very light edge leading, especially at the end. It helps burr minimization significantly and helps avoid stubborn burrs from sticking around.

Sorry for all the questions and thanks for still taking the time to answer questions.

Anytime.

Btw. I read somewhere on here that you designed your own sharpening system?

Yes, I have designed many sharpening attachments and systems. Among them, some free designs on Thingiverse and many others you'll see on Gritomatic's website.

 

[blades and sheaths]

Try very light edge leading, especially at the end.

That’s what I usually do…. I think what I’m still doing wrong is I oftentimes build up too much of a burr. Mainly because I still need to really feel the burr, to make sure I definitely apexed along the whole edge, creating a very stubborn burr.

I recently bought an Endura K390 wharncliffe and one of the last MT K294. Unfortunately both of them had noticeable uneven bevels which eventually brought me to post this and get all my questions answered. It turned out to be exactly like you said and now I get everything fixed and working great.
Just figuring out this whole micro edge thing

Yes, I have designed many sharpening attachments and systems

Leading Edge?

 

[777 Edge]

It turned out to be exactly like you said and now I get everything fixed and working great.

Leading Edge?

Happy you got it sorted. Yes, correct.

 

[blades and sheaths]

777 Edge , I’m debating on ordering the leading edge universal upgrade kit. Will it work well with ffg blades like Spyderco? As well or possibly even better then the Tsprof spring clamps, or pretty much any other clamps for Tsprof? I definitely think having a magnetic table is a really good upgrade. Being able to reasonably easy sharpen ffg blades is important to me too, though. Any info you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[777 Edge]

777 Edge , I’m debating on ordering the leading edge universal upgrade kit. Will it work well with ffg blades like Spyderco? .

Yes, it absolutely works well when used correctly. The Leading Edge universal upgrade kit makes for very versatile sharpening options, including scissors with the front scissors clamp. Just remember that when using any platform based system, you may have to lightly hold the knife with your non-sharpening hand to keep it it position while sharpening.

That said, your TSProf whole milled clamps will also work well on Spyderco FFG knives - as long as you clamp correctly. Use one clamp on the flat, tang area just in front of the hande, and the other about an inch or so back from the tip.

 

[blades and sheaths]

Yeah, but not all my ffg blades have a flat spot anywhere. For example my Mule has about a 3/16” flat spot before the scales. I got one folder where I would have to disassemble it and a couple or so kitchen knives that don’t have a flat spot anywhere.

I don’t know, I own the regular whole milled clamps that came with the kadet pro when I bought it 1 1/2 years ago, also the spring double clamps and now even flat Kakbritva double clamps. I got the spring clamps specifically for my FFG blades but I can’t seem to figure them out to where they are adjusted perfectly even.

I noticed something else last night. Which is that when I clamp a knife in it always “leans” down on the left side. I know probably sounds silly, but unless I’m overthinking things there’s something strange going on lately with my Kadet. Anyway, I’ll figure out what’s up eventually.
Might have nothing to do with the Kadet itself. My knifes get sharp but not quite like how I used to get them sharp; evenly sharpened and completely free of burr.

Anyway, I just recently got a pair of Kakbritva clamps with your gear connect adapters. They fit great! I like’em. I would like to be able to still use my L-adapters though. All I need to do is drill the hole 1 mm wider so that the bolt can fit through my adapter. Or could you think of anything that would have you advise me against doing that?

 

[777 Edge]

I would say the Leading Edge Core universal upgrade would suit your needs well then.

I can see no reason not to make a small modification on your adapter if it makes it better for you!

 

[blades and sheaths]

Last questions 777 Edge , I promise lol...... I'm just putting together my Gritomatic order for the Leading Edge universal upgrade now and am thinking of adding a kakbritva single clamp with undercut, as I only have flat clamps. Would you happen to know what degree undercut would be best for FFG blades, like spydies for example? Or would a couple Kakbritva undercut double clamps be a better choice than a single center clamp, for someone that doesn't have any undercut clamps yet? What I own so far are 2 different sets of Tsprof double clamps (whole milled and spring) and a pair of flat Kakbritva double clamps. So, in my shoes, would you add a single kakbritva center clamp, or Kakbritva undercut double clamps? Keeping in mind that Im buying the LE universal upgrade for my Kadet pro for sure.

Is "PrintSharpCo" made by you as well, btw?

 

[777 Edge]

A 3 degree undercut is a fairly good choice, with the 5 degree undercut being my second. 2 clamps are always better and more versatile than one in my opinion. And remember, there is no need to mount the knife in the center of your sharpening system. Mounting a knife on one side of the clamp bar does not actually affect the sharpening angle.

Printsharpco is not designed or made by me. I design the Leading Edge products, but Gritomatic manufactures them.

 

[blades and sheaths]

A 3 degree undercut is a fairly good choice, with the 5 degree undercut being my second. 2 clamps are always better and more versatile than one in my opinion. And remember, there is no need to mount the knife in the center of your sharpening system. Mounting a knife on one side of the clamp bar does not actually affect the sharpening angle.

Printsharpco is not designed or made by me. I design the Leading Edge products, but Gritomatic manufactures them.

Gotcha! Thanks for all your help again. I’m very grateful.

 

[blades and sheaths]

777 Edge and to anybody else reading this…. Unfortunately I’m still not completely satisfied that I’m getting a good performance out of my Kadet pro right now and the sharpening experience changed somehow. I noticed something new. That doesn’t necessarily mean much cause all that means is that I didn’t take notice of it ‘till now. For all I know this could be completely normal. Although I’d like to think that I’d have noticed it sooner.

So, that out of the way let me try explain what I mean. When I clamp a blade in, it always dips down to the left that, basically, it’s “out of level”. But it’s always down on the left side. Doesn’t matter wether it’s the hilt that’s a bit lower on the left side (when facing the Kadet) or the tip of the blade. Always on the left side, facing the sharpener. That’s with either the spring double clamps or the whole milled clamps.

I zeroed the angle cube on the base and then put it on the clamp arm (or whatever it’s called) and it reads 0.2 degrees down on the left side. Same result when I clamped an aluminum blank and put the cube on it. Now 0.2 degrees isn’t much (I’d think) and I wouldn’t be surprised if I’m overthinking this and seeing things that aren’t so or are in actuality completely normal. That I just never quite noticed it before. I’m hoping that’s the case actually. I can’t afford a new sharpener or more bench stones to practice freehand more. It would be a big disappointment for me if i needed a new sharpener, which I couldn’t afford. Especially cause I was starting to get really good at sharpening. Whether it’s a biting 600 grit edge or a 1 micron polish and anything in between. They were sharp and stayed sharp, each time a bit longer and longer. So I started investing into a good array of quality stones, gimmicks, strops, emulsions, sprays and so forth.

Lastly I think my edges come out a bit different now but they still get sharp to shave arm hair. Just more toothy but a bit “sticky”, if that makes sense. I also feel like I have a harder time with burrs and not always completely burr free. But again, not enough of a difference that I can be certain. I also have not been sharpening for about 1 1/2 to 2 months due to a medical reasons.

To summarize, I think something is different in the sharpening but I hope its just my imagination.

I know this sounds all very vague and maybe even a bit confusing or even annoying. You see, it’s just that I lost a lot of confidence in my sharpening ability and sharpener all of a sudden and that can eventually take the fun out of it. I don’t want that to happen as blades and leatherwork have become my hobbies. So I really appreciate that you guys read this far already and am thankful for any feedback and help I could get.

 

[777 Edge]

That small difference you have now noticed for the first time should have no real effect on your edges or sharpening ability, so don't let that bother you. If you've been getting sharp edges, keep doing what you're doing and don't let this bother you.

 

[blades and sheaths]

That small difference you have now noticed for the first time should have no real effect on your edges or sharpening ability, so don't let that bother you. If you've been getting sharp edges, keep doing what you're doing and don't let this bother you.

Sounds good. Thanks for that reply again.

So this couldn’t have anything do with my uneven bevels? Cause now that I think back, I tried sharpening each bevel evenly much and I think I mostly did that. But it could have been due to totally different factors. It just feels like that. It would be more of a coincidence if every thing that seems different to me would have different reasons.

Anyway, we shall see. This really is giving me a reason to invest in bench stones and get good at it. I think those double sided venev benchstones, 8x3” if I’m not mistaken would be a good bang for a buck.

Again, highly appreciate your consistently helping guys like me. I got one of your magnetic table attachment for my Kadet. The one including the attachment for longer blades. I got the same issue when it’s attached to my KP though. It’s “listing” to the left. Although not as noticeable as with the clamps.

Do you think I make way too much of a deal out of that slight discrepancy causing being not level by 0.2 - 0.3 (at the most). That it doesn’t make any difference to the actual sharpening outcome? I wish I had piece of mind with there being nothing wrong lol. Thanks again

 

[blades and sheaths]

Shit, one other thing I meant to ask. On K390, K294, M390 but some other ones too I don’t get that toothy edge I got before from a 700grit edge. The first answer would be going back coarser, like 140grit and back up to 700 grit, pls correct when wrong. This means I’d be building up a fair bit of burr to abrade off. How extensive would you grind to start getting that edge “toothy” again? I did that on my endura k390 last night but just a couple passes each side. One edge trailing and one edge leading per stone up to 740grit. I’d be super interested in your way. If that’s something you’d be interested in sharing.

 

[777 Edge]

So this couldn’t have anything do with my uneven bevels? Cause now that I think back, I tried sharpening each bevel evenly much and I think I mostly did that.

It's highly unlikely, I would say it's probably more likely your Kadet that has one side lower by 0.2 degrees. Again, it won't have any effect on your edge.

Anyway, we shall see. This really is giving me a reason to invest in bench stones and get good at it. I think those double sided venev benchstones, 8x3” if I’m not mistaken would be a good bang for a buck.

Getting good at hand sharpening is never a bad thing, I still love doing it every so often....but your 0.2 degree offset on your Kadet should not be the reason you decide drop fixed angle systems. You'll never be able to have less than 0.2 degrees accuracy during hand sharpening on a bench stone.

I got one of your magnetic table attachment for my Kadet. The one including the attachment for longer blades. I got the same issue when it’s attached to my KP though. It’s “listing” to the left. Although not as noticeable as with the clamps.

Again, I'm pretty sure that is your Kadet itself, but it won't affect your edges.

Do you think I make way too much of a deal out of that slight discrepancy causing being not level by 0.2 - 0.3 (at the most).

Absolutely, yes. Don't sweat it.

 

[777 Edge]

Shit, one other thing I meant to ask. On K390, K294, M390 but some other ones too I don’t get that toothy edge I got before from a 700grit edge. The first answer would be going back coarser, like 140grit and back up to 700 grit, pls correct when wrong. This means I’d be building up a fair bit of burr to abrade off. How extensive would you grind to start getting that edge “toothy” again? I did that on my endura k390 last night but just a couple passes each side. One edge trailing and one edge leading per stone up to 740grit. I’d be super interested in your way. If that’s something you’d be interested in sharing.

What grit rating are we talking on your 700? FEPA-F, or JIS? If it is a FEPA-F grit rating, then your 700 would be equal to approximately 1500-2000 JIS Grit, which might not be as toothy as you would like.

A JIS 700 edge would be closer to a FEPA-F 400 edge, which would be more toothy.

 

[blades and sheaths]

I meant JIS rating 700. To be completely accurate, it’s 28/20um, which comes out to about 700 JIS, if I’m not mistaken.

 

[777 Edge]

I meant JIS rating 700. To be completely accurate, it’s 28/20um, which comes out to about 700 JIS, if I’m not mistaken.

GOST 9206 28/20 would equate to approximately F360-ish. That should be a fairly nice toothy edge. Unless your stones are glazed over or worn down.

What stones are these?