Problems with Northfield #25 Barlow

Joined
Jan 22, 2012
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37
I bought a Northfield Barlow two weeks ago. Everything seemed to be ok at first but I found that...

1. It is very hard to open especially the smaller blade. Now I almost cannot open it and it just breaks my
nail. Last week I still could open it more easily.
What can I do to make it open normally?

2. The blades is quite dull. It cuts a paper badly. I should use the word 'tear' rather than cut.
What should I use to sharpen it? I never sharpen the knife before.
Please suggest a way to sharpen it. I also have a peanut, a trapper and sodbusters.

Thanks
 
Oil the joints and open and close it while watching a movie. It should be loose by the credits. And get a medium/fine stone and watch some videos on sharpening. Basic technique is great to know and it becomes a stress reliever touching up your blades
 
Wow sorry to hear of your troubles. First off my Barlow was hard to open as you described when I first got it as well but repeated openings have lessened that a little. I'm not sure if I just got used to how it opens or if it did actually soften a bit. I do know that my nail was sore the first couple of days but after that it is fine now and it doesn't bother me to open any of my GEC knives anymore. All I know is to tell you to oil the joint slightly and just sit around while watching tv and open a close it until it breaks in a little.

On the sharpening front I'm not that great, some knives I can get pretty sharp and others not so much. I had trouble with GEC 1095 at first but now have no problems. I use a Lansky Diamond kit to sharpen all my knives. I also picked up a blue sapphire polishing stone to use to finish my edges and that stone really makes the difference for me. Sorry I couldn't be of more help, this is all I can think of to tell you. Hope you get it all sorted out soon.
 
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What are the last 2 numbers on the tang of the main blade? The earlier barlows had pen blades that were harder to open because they used a thicker backspring. I believe GECs made in 2010 and later use thinner blade stock and springs for pen blades.

Follow what Clich said. Also make sure to clean up any gunk coming out of the joints.
 
2Dead, the no. on the blade is 252208.

War eagle, it getting harder to open since I got it. Both blades.
 
Well I'm not really sure what the deal is there then. Maybe as others have suggested try to flush the joints out with a good amount of light oil. Work the blades and see if any "gunk" starts to come out. Just clean this off and repeat until it starts to get better. I had a Case Sodbuster Jr that came with TONS of brass filings and this is what I had to do for about three days to eventually get it all out.

I think yours is going to have the thicker back spring on the pen blade than mine so I'm pretty sure your pen blade is always going to be pretty difficult to open. Others with more knowledge will surely be here to let you know for sure on this as I only have the one barlow and mine has the thinner spring for the pen blade.
 
Sometimes the polishing compound can get stuck in the joints, so a little shot of oil should start to loosen things a bit. After some good use the springs should weaken too, I have had a few nail breakers, but if you bear with it and use it, it should lighten up. I too use a Lansky sharpening system, but there are a ton of choices.

Good luck. :thumbup:
 
I have read post after post here about folks that love their nail breakers. I like a good snap, but to me a knife that is difficult to use because of its assembled mechanics is not a useful tool. I know that on this forum though, nail breakers are even highly prized by some.

I rather than to work with a tool for a few months to see if I could get it to work properly (sorry, not that patient - my tools need to be ready to go to work), I would either return it to the vendor for exchange or send it in to the manufacturer to have it repaired.

I am annoyed to have to clean out a new knife, cut down any manufacturer's tooling burrs with a diamond file, or to sharpen them (you did buy a knife, right? Not a screwdriver....) but I will do it as that is the state of manufacturing these days. It is easier to try to fix things or finish up the details than it is to send it back.

But if you have oiled it, cleaned it, deburred anything that looks suspicious, and it is still not working but getting worse as you said, send it back. You shouldn't have to get a manufactured product to usable condition. If you haven't sharpened it, your vendor should be fine with the return.

As for the poorly sharpened blades, I think with all the American made brands these days sharpening is hit and miss. Looooooong gone are the days of knowing that without fail the factory edge would be great or even perfect. I consider the manufacturer finishing up their product properly a rare bonus these days.

I personally use a Lansky (and have for almost 30 years) guided system to set the edges, and to reprofile most of my pocket knives. After you get the hang of the system, you can polish up the edges to a mirror finish if you wish. There are a couple of other guided systems out their, and they seem to work well, too. I actually bought my Lansky system at the recommendation of an area custom maker as at the time he used it to set his edges when he made his folders.

On my large knives I freehand on a stone, but on my work knives I like a toothy edge and use a 600 grit chef's rod.

Robert
 
I rather than to work with a tool for a few months to see if I could get it to work properly (sorry, not that patient - my tools need to be ready to go to work), I would either return it to the vendor for exchange or send it in to the manufacturer to have it repaired.


Robert

I agree with Robert. I've had a few of the older #25s (around '08, like yours) and the pen blades especially were basically useless because they were so darned hard to open. It sounds like yours has some gunk in the pivot because it's getting harder to open. You've received good suggestions already how to clean it out. But ..... I definitely had all the gunk out of mine, worked it literally hundreds, if not thousands, of times - opening and closing the blades - while sitting in front of the TV. It helped a little, but in the end I ended up selling them all because they were still a bearcat to open. YMMV.

Here are a few pics of a newer #25 (2011), and the pulls are a perfect 5 to 6 on both blades.
 

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I have to agree with Robert on this. It is just not acceptable to have to work on a new knife to get it to a condition to where it can be used. By sending it back, it just may, maybe, send a message to them that they need to pay a little more attention to what they are doing.

It's bad enough when a moderate priced knife like a Case has to go back to the shop right off the bat, but this is a higher priced knife with the same problems. Just not right. I do not understand why the knife is assembled without cleaning first. Gunked up joints are not acceptable. They can't run the parts through a cleaner before being assembled? And shipping a dull knife is wrong on so may levels.

I say send the knife back with a detailed letter. Make them deal with it.

Carl.
 
I agree with everything being said. One thing that always urked me was the grit in the joints. Leads to blade play when you flush them out. I don't want a nail breaker either.

With all that said this is an older knife. From what I have seen as time has gone by GEC has listened. Lighter pulls, sharper edges and cleaner assembly. Not a fanboy, just don't think its fair to gerneralize from input on an outdated knife so to speak.

It seems a lot of the gunk can just be superficial buffing compound from final polishing once the knife was assembled. Either way.
 
Impossible for me to send it back. I am not in the US. Shipping cost just too high.
Can I use WD-40 to work on the joints? Any recommendation?
How about spyderco sharpmaker comparing with Lansky system (which model) ?
 
Impossible for me to send it back. I am not in the US. Shipping cost just too high.
Can I use WD-40 to work on the joints? Any recommendation?
How about spyderco sharpmaker comparing with Lansky system (which model) ?

WD40 will work fine for flushing the joints. Don't be afraid to spray it in there liberally and open & close the blades many times. Repeat. Then repeat again. And again. You can't overdo it, and you're not going to hurt anything. Just be careful 'cause your hands and the knife will be slippery from all the WD and it will be easy to slip and cut yourself. I've also used hot water (or as warm as you can stand) and dish soap in the same way. The same caveats apply.

I've never used the sharpmaker so I can't comment on that. After years of freehanding I recently bought the Lansky Deluxe system - mostly out of curiosity and a desire to experiment and try something new. I'm pretty impressed with it. There's lots of good information about sharpening over in the Maintenance, Tinkering, & Embellishment sub-forum: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/794-Maintenance-Tinkering-amp-Embellishment
 
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If there is dirt/grime/gunk in the pivot, give the knife a bath in hot water & dish detergent (like Ivory, Dawn, etc.). Open & close the blades while in the soapy water. You might open the pen blade to half-open position, before putting it in the water, just to make it easier to access that blade (it'll be hard to grip in the soapy water). Don't necessarily need to completely close it, while in there, but exercise it as much as you can. You want to maintain a good grip on the blade. If need be, you might even wrap that blade with something to help protect your fingers while exercising it. After that, rinse thoroughly in hot water, again exercising the joints. Then dry everything completely. Using the hot water will heat up the internals of the knife, which will speed evaporation and aid in drying it out afterwards. You can also use a hair dryer if you have one, to help dry it out. A light spritz of WD-40 into the pivot can flush out any remaining moisture, or you can accomplish the same with some isopropyl alcohol. Very lightly lube the pivots, after everything is dry.

I've always preferred to do it this way, as opposed to attempting to flush out the pivot with oil or WD-40 alone. Adding more oil to the gunk, without flushing it out after, can sometimes make it worse after the oil dries (makes more 'gunk' if any of the particles/compound/dirt gets left behind). Better to use the soap & water to get the joint as clean as possible, then lightly oil afterwards. I have used WD-40 to help flush out joints like this, but I always followed that with the soap & water bath.

For sharpening, unless you want to completely re-do the bevel on the blade, I'd recommend the Sharpmaker first. Easier for a novice to learn fairly quickly, and it should handle the touch-up on the new blade. The Lansky is very useful for re-bevelling (it's coarse & medium hones are much more aggressive than the Sharpmakers standard hones), but might be a little awkward initially, for someone looking for a relatively quick, simple solution for touching up the blade on a new knife.

You can also use some medium/fine grit wet/dry sandpaper, on a hard backing like glass, to sharpen most any blade. It is 'freehand' though, and if you've never done that before, it might be somewhat challenging initially. Still a very good thing to practice, using some less-precious knives (old kitchen knives are great for this).
 
Thank you so much. You guys are very helpful.
One more question, after I clean and use WD-40 what should I use to oil the knife.
Any specific oil? Or just any oil.
I see some on youtube recommend bath and massage oil :confused:
 
Mineral oil is great, but any machine oil is better than no oil at all! Just don't use vegetable oil :barf::D
 
Most any oil is fine, if applied sparingly to a clean knife. Even the WD-40 will leave a little bit of mineral oil behind (it's a mix of light solvent and mineral oil). That's all I've ever used. Simple mineral oil, sold as a laxative in drug/grocery stores, also works. And it's 'food safe' too.

Not so sure about the bath and massage oil, though. Might be similar to baby oil, which is mineral oil with scent added.
 
Update. Already use WD-40 and clean with hot water. The bigger blade is easier to open but the smaller one is harder to open than ever. Actually I cannot open it. My thumb's nail was torn a bit now. Tomorrow I will have to use a Case Peanut instead.:(
 
Update. Already use WD-40 and clean with hot water. The bigger blade is easier to open but the smaller one is harder to open than ever. Actually I cannot open it. My thumb's nail was torn a bit now. Tomorrow I will have to use a Case Peanut instead.:(

With dish detergent? Or just the hot water?

The fact that it's changed still suggests there's some grit or particles in there. Maybe even metal shavings or similar. The only way I've ever been able to get it cleared up, is to repeat the wash & joint-exercising (really work 'em). Sometimes it takes extra persistence to get that stuff out.
 
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