Production edge fail. Do they even try or leave it for you?

I agree on the edge Queen ships with. They're just horrible. No excuse to be that bad IMHO. Some makers seem worse that others and I don't expect shaving sharp. Nice if they are but at least give me decent place to start sharpening it to where I like them.
 
K.O.D. said:
I'm assuming when you say you bought a Ken Onion, you mean a Kershaw, ZT, or CRKT and not one of his custom knives. I've had 3 of his Kershaws (Blur, Leek, Scallion, all given away) and a ZT0350 (sold). They all came very sharp. Of CRKT's I've handled, none of them came very sharp. Benchmade's I've owned have had very average to below average sharpness. I had to sharpen my 530 almost immediately. My orange 585 mini Barrage came pretty sharp. I had a mini grip and grip and they were pretty bad.

On the other hand, I've never had a problem with Spyderco--I own/have owned many and they all came sharp enough to decapitate someone in one stroke. Lionsteel/dpx has been the same. I've heard mixed reviews on ESEE, but my Izula and 5 came very sharp. ZT0801 is average.

Sometimes I guess with the bigger companies there is so much demand that QC is compromised. Being that Spyderco has factories in Colorado, Japan, Taiwan, and China instead of one or two big factories, they can concentrate more on QC. Just my .02 and experence.
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Ya, my bad it was a Kershaw Ken Onion rainbow flipper. I loved the edge and quality. I prefer non open blades.
 
mtangent said:
Proper sharpening costs money. So if you buy bottom end knives, there is a good chance they come with a bad edge. It doesn't bother me.
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I disagree. I've had a couple of brand new Benchmades in the past that came so dull you could press and run your finger along the edge and not get cut. Also, though I also love Chris Reeve knives, the first Sebenza I got in 2002 also had an edge so thick it couldn't cut. I had to completely reprofile the edges to make them even functional. I took it as a challenge, one that I passed. BUT, at their price, I shouldn't have had to reprofile them out of the box at all. There really is no excuse for that. It's the same as buying a car and that is delivered with no air in the tires. You'll eventually need to refill the tires anyway, but in the meantime you can't drive it.

Meanwhile, all my below-$30 Victorinox SAKs have come razor-sharp OOB.

Jim
 
Freman Bloodglaive said:
My knives from Cold Steel have almost all come sharp from the factory, so have most of my Spyderco knives.
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Same here. Spyderco, Cold Steel's and Mora's were razor sharp from the factory. Bucks, ESEE's were pretty sharp from the factory. Ka-Bar Beckers were ok with a few slightly off kilter grinds. My SAK's came with fair edges and my Leatherman multitools were moderate but functional. My Condors generally came with terrible cutting edges and my older Hudson Bay has a warp. If I can cleanly slice a piece of printer paper with a blade edge I am satisfied. This is how I set up, and what I expect with my axe\hatchets.
 
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I don't care if it comes sharp per se but do prefer when it comes in at a reasonable angle so that reprofilling takes less time. The difference in time between 40* and 60* going down to 25* or so can be significant with harder steels, even with dmt stones. ... And I've had quite a few knives that came from the factory at close to 60* inclusive.
 
When I bought my blue endura 4, all I had to do was strop about ten strokes on bare leather and it would whittle hair. My zdp endura was the same way. And every song buck knife I've bought has been reasonably sharp. Not quite to my standards but easily fixed with just a few swipes I the sharpmaker.
 
Some companies are incompetent at sharpening, some leave it for the user, and some sharpen for you.

I don't get why Chris Reeve has unimpressive edges, some of these are meant to be safe queens so they will not be sharpened, but should be sharp at the price it's sold. I had to re profile all my crks.
 
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