Profiling and plunge cuts done, what to do next?

PIndelicato

PIndelicato

Joined
Sep 16, 2002
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I've got my profile work and plunge cuts with the round file mostly done, and I'm feeling a bit unsure what to do next. I've done everything by hand, and I'm not sure what order to do some of the following steps:

-Cut the bevels? Also, should I attempt a full flat grind, and how hard is it to cut up to, but not into, the top edge of the blade? I'm not sure how to do this step.

-Draw file/cleanup the handle and blade edges (thinking it would be better to complete the bevel work first?

-Drill handle holes (I don't think this matters much as long as it's prior to heat treat.)

Here are a couple of pics...I appreciate any guidance or advice on where to go from here.

PJ234


PJ234
 
All of what you listed you need to do, and it doesn't mater what order you do then in. Nice shape of the knife.
It only takes me about 2 hours with a 12" bastard file to bevel the edge of a 4" blade, but I've had lots of years to practice before I finally bought a belt grinder.
 
I usually:
Cut profile roughly (hacksaw)
Clean up profile (Half-round file)
Bevel blade (File for now, Coote soon)
Drill holes in handle.

But I guess it doesn't matter. Just drill the holes before heat treat.
 
That looks like a pretty thick piece of steel; what's the thickness? Personally, I would drill the holes next and clean up the tang after drilling the holes. I always clean up the edges before doing the bevels as well so that all that's left is hand sanding them. After that file away and away on those bevels! Looks good so far :-) Good idea to do the plunges first; when I started with files I always messed that part up and still do frequently even on a grinder. May I make one recommendation. When I first started using a blue layout dye really helped me keep everything even. You can really tell when you are hitting all the spots evenly better. You can also use a permanent marker in the same way. It's not 100% necessary, but it really helped me. Good luck and have fun! It becomes addicting very quickly!
 
raythebigfoot said:
That looks like a pretty thick piece of steel; what's the thickness? Personally, I would drill the holes next and clean up the tang after drilling the holes. I always clean up the edges before doing the bevels as well so that all that's left is hand sanding them. After that file away and away on those bevels! Looks good so far :-) Good idea to do the plunges first; when I started with files I always messed that part up and still do frequently even on a grinder. May I make one recommendation. When I first started using a blue layout dye really helped me keep everything even. You can really tell when you are hitting all the spots evenly better. You can also use a permanent marker in the same way. It's not 100% necessary, but it really helped me. Good luck and have fun! It becomes addicting very quickly!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it!

Ray, it's 1/4" 5160, and I realize it's really thick but I wanted to order a piece that was thick enough to do a large knife with as well...quite possibly another rookie mistake I've made!

I'm still feeling really uncertain about the bevels. I had a couple of people suggest I go for full flat grind, but on all of the knives I've looked at they seem to come up to exactly the top of the edge without cutting into it. I don't know how on earth I could do that by hand with files. Conversely, I have the same uncertainty going for some type of sabre grind and getting an even, straight line.

Do I just need to dig in and go slow, and I'll figure it out? Or what kind of strategy do I need to employ to have a chance at success? I've spent so much time on this thing that I don't want to screw it up at this stage.
 
Start filing with long smooth strokes. Look at each stroke and see what it did (a leaning trick is to blacken the blade with a big marker pen every couple of strokes to see how and where you are filing). You will begin to see how to move the grind line anywhere you wish.
Stacy
 
I find i get MUCH deeper gouges even with a fine file for some reason when using long filing strokes?
 
Another key that hasn't been mentioned yet is to keep your file clean. When drawfiling, I do one stroke, move the file down for the next stroke so the same portion of the file doesn't get used twice. When the whole useable length of the file is full of steel shavings, flip it over and use the other side. When the other side is loaded, clean both sides and start over. Any little flake of steel stuck in the file will gall the knife badly. Good luck.

-Mike
 
1/4" 5160 with a file? :eek:

Mark a centerline along the cutting edge using a 3/32" drill bit. Lay the blade down, color the edge with a black marker or dykem then pull the blade along the point of the drill bit. This will establish the cutting edge. File a short bevel down to the mark. Then you can draw file from the spine to the edge and you know where to stop :D

The trick for me to draw filing is to do long, smooth strokes (no jokes there guys.)
 
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