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Profiling the edge - - - -
- Thread starter rlinger
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2001
- Messages
- 265
Roger, the others here have covered this very well, but I couldn't
help to add something. I have always ground the final edge by hand
because my Sears grinder runs so fast that I was afraid of overheating
the edge and ruining it. I have a course diamond sharpening rod and It
probably takes me about 30 to 45 min to form the bevel. Now, even if
you had to use the guide device, most of the metal would be removed.
If you keep using the diamond, you might get better at hand sharpening
than you think.
help to add something. I have always ground the final edge by hand
because my Sears grinder runs so fast that I was afraid of overheating
the edge and ruining it. I have a course diamond sharpening rod and It
probably takes me about 30 to 45 min to form the bevel. Now, even if
you had to use the guide device, most of the metal would be removed.
If you keep using the diamond, you might get better at hand sharpening
than you think.
WOW! Look at all the great ideas in this thread!
Roger, I just wanted to clarify my method. I think you imagined my knife with the edge down (or up). Actually the ricasso is level with the ground and the belt running backwards
Here's a pic of how it is set for about 25 degrees:
Not any better than anyone elses, but works for me. I get a very consistent edge bevel this way.
Steve
PS that's the Sando-platen there
. Rob set it up for me so I could fine tune the angle.
Roger, I just wanted to clarify my method. I think you imagined my knife with the edge down (or up). Actually the ricasso is level with the ground and the belt running backwards
Here's a pic of how it is set for about 25 degrees:
Not any better than anyone elses, but works for me. I get a very consistent edge bevel this way.
Steve
PS that's the Sando-platen there
. Rob set it up for me so I could fine tune the angle.The stop! Oh yeah ..... I can't use it on flat grinds. 
Turns out it runs into the KMG platen bracket on the left side.
I tried it on the wheel. The cuts are even, but still no magic on making them the same shape - know what I mean?
In any case I found I use it a lot for marking things. I'll be using it as a file guide too.
All in all, it's one of those things that sets on the top of the work bench now.
Thanks,
Steve
Turns out it runs into the KMG platen bracket on the left side.
I tried it on the wheel. The cuts are even, but still no magic on making them the same shape - know what I mean?
In any case I found I use it a lot for marking things. I'll be using it as a file guide too.
All in all, it's one of those things that sets on the top of the work bench now.
Thanks,
Steve
Itrade, that's too bad. Is there anything I can do to make it work for you? If so, email me.
EDIT: An after thought. I always grind both sides of my blades from the right side. I don't have the coordinence left-handed for grindong bevels. Guess I could learn with practice - but I guess I'll stay righty so long as it works.
Roger
EDIT: An after thought. I always grind both sides of my blades from the right side. I don't have the coordinence left-handed for grindong bevels. Guess I could learn with practice - but I guess I'll stay righty so long as it works.
Roger
What a dream come true!!!
I followed you fellow's advise in whole or in part and have edge ground a bunch of really dull kitchen knives this evening. Works great and the lines looks constistant.
What I have done is tilt the Coote back about 22 degrees, run it in reverse at a slow speed so the belt runs into the edge instead of away from it, hold the blade spine perpendicular to the floor and grind. It took only one knife to begin to get a feel for it. The curve at the tips takes a little practice but not much pain at all. I am only sorry I am running out of knives to practice on. Got two left to do and have done about a dozen in no time. The good news is my little Lady has a couple draws full of dull ones for me to work on.
I think, so far, I like the short slack area between the flat platen and the drive wheel. Playing around with the speed also seems to make a big difference for me. Seems SLOW-SLOW is best. That is probably because I don't have enough experience at it yet.
I am very happy about learning this from all you and just to think I almost didn't ask.
Roger
I followed you fellow's advise in whole or in part and have edge ground a bunch of really dull kitchen knives this evening. Works great and the lines looks constistant.
What I have done is tilt the Coote back about 22 degrees, run it in reverse at a slow speed so the belt runs into the edge instead of away from it, hold the blade spine perpendicular to the floor and grind. It took only one knife to begin to get a feel for it. The curve at the tips takes a little practice but not much pain at all. I am only sorry I am running out of knives to practice on. Got two left to do and have done about a dozen in no time. The good news is my little Lady has a couple draws full of dull ones for me to work on.
I think, so far, I like the short slack area between the flat platen and the drive wheel. Playing around with the speed also seems to make a big difference for me. Seems SLOW-SLOW is best. That is probably because I don't have enough experience at it yet.
I am very happy about learning this from all you and just to think I almost didn't ask.
Roger