Progressing grits when finishing handles?

weo

weo

Joined
Sep 21, 2014
Messages
3,115
Hello all. When finishing handles (specifically wood handles) how do you professionals know when to progress to the next finer grit? I can't see any scratch marks that are the telltale sign when working on steel.

Thanks.

as always
peace and love
billyO
 
Well you asked for professionals to reply and I'm not that, but for me it's magnification and a variety of lighting, just like a blade. Starting at around 220 grit I'll use a 3x +/- lens, preferably but not always in daylight. Then check thru grits with a 5x+/- fly tying lens. If not daylight I use fluorescent and regular bulbs to get variable lighting.

I usually finish at 600 grit and still often have at least one do over spot or three. My best lens is a 10x geologist's loupe that I try hard to avoid using, I call it the heartbreaker.
 
kuraki said:
I can see pretty easily up to about 400 grit. After that, I usually make a couple trips to the buffer as I'm sanding up to 800-1200. Buffing lightly makes them stand out pretty well. Some woods are harder to see than others.
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A quick buff, then you see what needs more work, then you try to use the buffer to "blend" out 220 grit scratches on your 400 grit handle, then you ignore it and try to get it out with the same 400 grit you have been using instead of going back a grit in that area like you should, then after spending 2X as much time as it would have taken you to do it right you go back a grit like you know you should have to begin with.

:D
 
Maelstrom78 said:
A quick buff, then you see what needs more work, then you try to use the buffer to "blend" out 220 grit scratches on your 400 grit handle, then you ignore it and try to get it out with the same 400 grit you have been using instead of going back a grit in that area like you should, then after spending 2X as much time as it would have taken you to do it right you go back a grit like you know you should have to begin with.

:D
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You been hangin round my shop?:eek:
 
So I need to budget for a buffer now???

On a related note: I used to sand to 600-800, then go straight to the dremel with a buffing wheel. I thought that gave a pretty good finish and it was fast. On my last 2 kitchen knives, I've progressed through 400 on the grinder, then by hand, 400, 1000, 2000. I think I see a significant difference going up to 2000, but am I fooling myself? It hasn't been a very scientific study as I just started expanding my handle material selection to include ebony. (pics coming soon)
 
Maelstrom78 said:
A quick buff, then you see what needs more work, then you try to use the buffer to "blend" out 220 grit scratches on your 400 grit handle, then you ignore it and try to get it out with the same 400 grit you have been using instead of going back a grit in that area like you should, then after spending 2X as much time as it would have taken you to do it right you go back a grit like you know you should have to begin with.

:D
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This sounds so familiar
 
Just do it by hand and look at what the paper does. It will tell you when a grit size is done after a while.
2000 is fine, treat yourself to a set of micromesh and go whow after finishing 12.000!
 
I belt finish up to 600. Admittedly that is mostly for the tangs. I then drop down to 220 for handsanding, then 400 and 600. Most woods I stop there. I've seen little benefit in taking most woods higher. I do buff after sanding. Ironwood I take up to 4000. It does benefit from the higher grits. As a rule of thumb a guy should double your number when stepping up. Your jump from 400 to 1000 is a pretty big jump, maybe part of the problem?
 
Hengelo_77 said:
Just do it by hand and look at what the paper does. It will tell you when a grit size is done after a while.
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Could you explain please? Is it when the handle seems to "slide" on the paper? I thought that was just a sign that the paper was getting loaded up with grit. (I do my handles with wet paper, if that matters.)

Horsewright said:
As a rule of thumb a guy should double your number when stepping up. Your jump from 400 to 1000 is a pretty big jump, maybe part of the problem?
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I do that for sanding the metal, but because wood is much softer, I figured that jumping a step wouldn't be a problem.
I'm pleased with the results of my process, no scratch marks on the handles (that I can see). My question was because, in my limited experience, there's been no real rationale for me stopping and moving to the next grit.
 
what kind of finish are you using? what result do you want? I like an Amana style on tables and have used on handles. hand sand wood to 150 removing all scratches. sanding sealer. sand with 220. first coat of finish. sand with 320. second coat of finish. sand with 400. third coat of finish. sand with 600. final coat. light buff.
there really is no right or wrong way. do some sample pieces or refinish a small table top and find what works best for you.
 
True that but are you working harder than you need to, for the same result by skipping a step? A light buffing, as mentioned, will tell you if you have those scratches that are hard to see.
 
After a while you get a feeling when a grit size is done and when it is time to move up.
I don't skip grit sizes I don't see the point.
Normaly I handsand wood dry and wear a resperator (filling pores is an exeption)
Just hand sand a while and play around a bit. See it as a learning project, don't be afraight to step down a grit size when needed.
If you have hand sanded steel, wood is soft, easy and fast
 
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