proper axe technique

Don't get me wrong....for the price this Fiskars is one good ax. However, the one thing that I never really liked about it is its relatively flat cutting face. Any proper reference on hand axes say that the cutting face should have a nice curve to it (like the GB, Wetterlings and many others). The reasoning is that little edge is contacting the wood at ANY given time. Making penetration and cutting much more efficient. I don't know if that is coming off in words the way it sounds in my head :D

EMF; I love the balance of the GB. What are your concerns with balance?

I have heard the same thing you have regarding european softwoods and american hardwoods, and I know the source too :D I could be wrong, but I think that was in reference to the logging days when axes were used for felling and limbing. In that case a lot of the GB larger axes are both lighter and shorter handled than similar american axes. So, I can totally see that, along with a thinner head profile that is not as good with oak and such.

On the smaller ones, like the Small Forest Ax I have, and smaller, I really don't know how you could ask for better performance. If I thought there was a better one, or even one that I could heavily modify to make better out there, I would buy it in a heartbeat. Hardwood is what I use my for 99% of the time. Oak, maple, cherry, Ash, all works great. Softer woods are obviously even easier. Of course, I am not chopping down trees either.

There are also some good reviews regarding performance that you might be interested in.

Cutlery Science

Old Jimbo

Old Jimbo 2

There is tons of good ax material on Old Jimbo's site. So, you might want to poke around there a bit.

The ax is definitely right at the top of my list (if not #1) of things I would not want to be without.
 
I didn't read the whole thread (I am at work now) but I guess it is worth checking this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S54qoSkcy0U&feature=related
I am from the Basq Country (Spain) and where we have a rural sport related to log cutting with axes. Anyone curious just check out AIZKOLARI in YouTube.

Seriously, we do this every morning before breakfast while waiting for the coffe!

mikel
 
mikel, that is pretty neat.

but do you mean to say you watch it every morning or you are out there chopping wood every morning?
 
eatingmuchface said:
hmmm... while we're talking about axe's, how do you feel about the balance of the gransfors?

I have heard that they are not balanced properly.
Also, aren't they designed for european softwoods and not american hardwoods?

I
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Gransfors is from Sweden so maybe there's more softwoods over there but I have several GB's and they cut hardwoods great, even better than my Norlund which has a thicker edge.

I think as far as out and out efficient chopping and balance that the GB Wildlife hatchet has to be one of the best hatchets ever made.:thumbup:
 
Sorry for my belated response...the axe missed my hand, but came back and hit me in the ball of the ankle and left a nice welt. As for my hand, momentum carried it into the wood leaving it all mangled. Luckily, I managed to get most of the splinters out already though. Im sorry to hear about your friend! After reading this thread hopefully the chopping grounds will be a safer place
 
nephil...excellent case study of what not to do. keep an eye on the tree and listen to it...if you can push it over with your hand so can the wind! be very careful with wood and axes, they are dangerous.

bmilla, ouch, sounds bad. she stays far away from anything resembling sharp now...in the last year she has also cut herself and someone else with tin snips in a jewelry class.

mike, that is a very good manual to start with. i personally disagree with one or two things in there, but it is all very good info in my experience, and very good for a place for a beginner to start, or anyone interested in working in refurbing axes and hatchets.

another piece of literature that isn't too complete but has a couple of handy tips is the gransforsbruks axe book. i was able to order it from the website without buying an axe.
 
siguy said:
nephil...excellent case study of what not to do. keep an eye on the tree and listen to it...if you can push it over with your hand so can the wind! be very careful with wood and axes, they are dangerous.
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yeah best thing to do when half way through is probably to try and push it over, so you control the fall
 
MIKE MACINTOSH said:
Hey guy's
i've put this link up before thought it might be worth putting up again it covers pretty much any thing you might want to know about axe's from safty, to uses, diffrent types, sharpining, hanging a handle ect.hope it helps out.
http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/fspubs/99232823/toc.htm
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Eatingmuchface,

I think your questions about European axes are answered here in the history section. It also talks about the decline in american axes as well after the advent of power saws. Very interesting.....
 
good news guys...i spent a few hours splitting wood today. no injuries this time lol. i mainly used a wedge though...and my friend cleaned those up with an axe. tips must of worked :)
 
briangandrews said:
I have been Snow & Neally Ax, and to be honest I think I HAVE to get one just to try it. I have heard good things about their steel in general. I will probably grind those funky bumps off the handle, and I am sure the belt sander would be appropriate for getting an edge as nice as the GB comes out of the box. But, that is not a big deal, and should not be for a knifemaker either ;)
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I know others have complained about them, but the Snow & Neally's I have (including the Penobscot Bay you linked to) are very nice. No offset eyes, the heads were satin finished, not painted like in the pictures. They were definitely not the sharpest objects in the world when I first got them.

Re: the "bumps" on the Pen Bay axe: they are there for a reason. The hump near the bit makes it easier to choke up and use for finer works (cleaning games, making fuzz sticks, etc. The one at the end, I find, helps quite a bit in control. In one handed chopping, I wrap my middle finger right at the narrowest part of the handle just above the hump. I can get a good swing, and there's no chance of it coming out of my hand. For a two-handed swing, I put my primary hand just above the hump, secondary on the hump. Gives good control and retention.
 
Cpl Punishment said:
I know others have complained about them, but the Snow & Neally's I have (including the Penobscot Bay you linked to) are very nice. No offset eyes, the heads were satin finished, not painted like in the pictures. They were definitely not the sharpest objects in the world when I first got them.

Re: the "bumps" on the Pen Bay axe: they are there for a reason. The hump near the bit makes it easier to choke up and use for finer works (cleaning games, making fuzz sticks, etc. The one at the end, I find, helps quite a bit in control. In one handed chopping, I wrap my middle finger right at the narrowest part of the handle just above the hump. I can get a good swing, and there's no chance of it coming out of my hand. For a two-handed swing, I put my primary hand just above the hump, secondary on the hump. Gives good control and retention.
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My experience with Snow & Neally has been pretty much the same. They are also the only axe company I am aware of that comes with a Life time warranty
 
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