Pros and cons of grinders greater than 72"

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Sep 28, 2005
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My 4x36" grinder recently bit the dust after using it since 2005, and while looking online I came across a 48" belt sander. I called the owner and he let me know it was 220v 4x48" with a 3HP motor. Unfortunately I don't have 220 in my garage, so that is out of the question. He told me he did have a variable sized belt sander with 3/4hp GE motor on it, running on 110v (thought it was 1720rpm). The only unknown is the length of the belt- he assumed it was around 10' on longest setting. He has a smaller 1/3hp disc grinder and power hacksaw (his grandfathers- really wanting to check this out)at a decent price, so I will probably check everything out.

I was just wondering what possible cons (and pros)there were to a longer belt on a 3/4hp motor (cost of belts/scarcity parts?....). He wasn't sure of the width, I'm assuming 4". Is there any reason to/advice on running 2" belts on a 4" frame, or on a longer belt is the extra width less of an issue. My other option is a 42" craftsman, I haven't seen any locally online, so I would be paying full new prices. Of course more info is needed, but anything I can be aware of ahead of time, or questions I need to ask will be more power to me.

Any advice is welcome, I have never used anything except my 4x36, and funds aren't enough to finish the no weld grinder frame I worked for, so I am looking for an intermediate step, and was thinking perhaps the 3/4hp motor could be scavenged for the no weld as well. Nothing will be a perfect setup, but I'm a hobbist getting back after 2 years of not making, and having my grinder die as I have projects on the table really did not make me happy. Luckily I don't have any orders upcoming until Feb and April, but the shop calls me.
Thanks
Kris
 
Many folks run 2"X132" grinders. There are ones running belts as wide as 12" and as long as 240". My concern is that this one is running a 3/4HP motor. I suspect it is a glass edge grinder for a glass shop....and not any real use to you unless it is less than $100.

Pros - Cooler running and longer belt life. Usually run a good size motor on an industrial machine.
Cons - More expensive belts. Selection harder to find without going to places like Klingspor. Often very heavy.
 
Thank you for your reply Stacy. I meant to respond yesterday but the day got away from me. I picked up the belt sander, power hacksaw and 8" disc. The belt sander wasn't on a rigid metal frame, but was set up on an adjustable wood frame. For $70 it was cheaper than any motors I've found locally online (1 Hp rather than the 3/4 he listed it as). I tried out the disc last night on a padauk tabletop I'm making for my office at work and it wouldn't bog down even with heavy pressure. And the power hacksaw is just neat, I really like the old stuff.

Some quick pictures from this morning.

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CFDECBE2-4223-4A70-8476-6936744B5257-16186-000019B1823DD7E8.jpg


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0C2E5933-E19E-4FCF-91A4-9815D692E3ED-16186-000019B18CA7EB15.jpg


I hope I did decently with the new additions.
 
Well, at least it is new to you. For the money, the deal was OK, but it isn't going to do am lot in a knife shop, beyond sanding some wood on the disc.

I'll be straight about what you got:
The saw is an old beast. I haven't seen one of those in a while. Keep fingers and hands away from the stroke and drive parts.
The disc sander will work for wood, but the open frame is not a great match for metal dust. Blow it out regularly.
The belt sander is really jury-rig-homemade. About the only usable thing is the motor.
 
The motor is the main reason I got the belt rig, he did have it set up so I know it worked, and I didn't break the bank with it so I can look at other options right now. I had a feeling that the open motor on the disc may have been a bit problematic, but for the money it will be useful for me outside of knifemaking as well. And I will put nothing near the saw when it is running- my mom lost fingers and mangled the rest in a PTO/swather incident, and I don't want to be like her!!

Thanks for shooting straight with me, I appreciate it more than a 'good haul' type of response. This is for spare time and learning for my future knifemaking, and should suffice for now at least.
 
Do you have any scrap yards or fab shops near where you live? I would think you'd be able to build a NWGS frame for less than 100 bucks easy.
 
Is there any way to cover the moter in a sealed container as you would with an unprotected vfd?
 
Is there any way to cover the moter in a sealed container as you would with an unprotected vfd?

Easiest thing to do is wrap a mesh filter around the openings with some rubber bands or duct tape and blow it off/change it every now an then. You could theoretically build an enclosure I suppose, but you'd have to have some built in way of maintaining air circulation to keep the motor cooled.
 
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